Chrome lever swap issues
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
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From: Boston, MA
Chrome lever swap issues
Hey all,
I just purchased a set of chrome levers for the old scoot and was wondering about the brake lever. I already swapped out the clutch side as I figured the only trick part was when you had to release the tension on the clutch cable in the fork/down tube area which was true. I simply unscrewed them there and put it all back together and adjusted the cable to where it feels right.
The question I guess is on the brake lever do I have to drain the reservoir? Relieve the pressure? Anything more difficult than the clutch lever?
Any and all help will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom
I just purchased a set of chrome levers for the old scoot and was wondering about the brake lever. I already swapped out the clutch side as I figured the only trick part was when you had to release the tension on the clutch cable in the fork/down tube area which was true. I simply unscrewed them there and put it all back together and adjusted the cable to where it feels right.
The question I guess is on the brake lever do I have to drain the reservoir? Relieve the pressure? Anything more difficult than the clutch lever?
Any and all help will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: EastCan
Advice: Don't F__K up the brake switch. I've changed bars successfully on several HD's and just frigged my brake switch last week when I had my bars off to pull the signal wires in the bars (I went a year with them taped on the bars, haha). My shim had settled, and I didn't notice until I put the lever on and SNAP and I said F__K!!! I just got a $15 drag specialties replacement and soldered it on.
To prevent that do the following:
Pull you brake lever and place a folded piece of cigarrette package shim to keep the lever compressed (at least 1/4" thick, and narrow enough to fit). The switch is on and out when the lever is compressed. Remove the 2 screws that secure the bar clamp for the master cylinder assembly. It is best to do this near a bench so you can lay the assembly there. Remove the c-clamp under the pivot pin and remove the lever. Install new lever and replace shim. Watch alignment on the lever contact to switch when replacing it.
That is the long and safe way to not break your brake switch. If you opt from removing the assembly from the bars, then you really have to align the lever contact on the switch while trying to install the pivot pin. No need to drain the brake reservoir, just leave the m/c cover on. There are several other post on here about that. Those switches break really easy. It's only about 1/2 hr to solder a new one in, but everytime you disassemble the throttle switch assembly, you risk breaking it.
Good luck!
To prevent that do the following:
Pull you brake lever and place a folded piece of cigarrette package shim to keep the lever compressed (at least 1/4" thick, and narrow enough to fit). The switch is on and out when the lever is compressed. Remove the 2 screws that secure the bar clamp for the master cylinder assembly. It is best to do this near a bench so you can lay the assembly there. Remove the c-clamp under the pivot pin and remove the lever. Install new lever and replace shim. Watch alignment on the lever contact to switch when replacing it.
That is the long and safe way to not break your brake switch. If you opt from removing the assembly from the bars, then you really have to align the lever contact on the switch while trying to install the pivot pin. No need to drain the brake reservoir, just leave the m/c cover on. There are several other post on here about that. Those switches break really easy. It's only about 1/2 hr to solder a new one in, but everytime you disassemble the throttle switch assembly, you risk breaking it.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
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From: Boston, MA
Appreciate it
Thanks fxbadass, I will try and keep the shim in pace just so the brake switch isn't going to break. Last thing I need is some soccer mom in 3 ton minivan up my a$$ cuz I have no brake light on the front!
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 466
Likes: 1
From: EastCan
Just look at it closely with a flashlight before hand so you know where the switch is located and how it works, and the above procedure will make better sense. My son bought his bike with a broken switch so I told him to make sure he used the back brake with the front brake so people knew he was slowing/stopping. I just changed his a couple of nights ago, so for the 1st time it works. I agree with your comment, no one wants a minivan up their azz!
Does your bike have a clutch safety switch? You should check (safely) to see if it works. Some levers are not clutch safety friendly. Just sit on your bike in a safe place with the front brake engaged and try to start the bike in gear. If it tries to start with your hand OFF the clutch, make note of that. You will always need to make sure your bike is in neutral before trying to start it on the stand. Just be aware of that, or find a clutch safety switch friendly lever. I am not sure of your bike year, make or model. My wife's Sporty does not have one, and has scared me a few times, lol! Nothing like holding on the bars for a ride down the road!
Does your bike have a clutch safety switch? You should check (safely) to see if it works. Some levers are not clutch safety friendly. Just sit on your bike in a safe place with the front brake engaged and try to start the bike in gear. If it tries to start with your hand OFF the clutch, make note of that. You will always need to make sure your bike is in neutral before trying to start it on the stand. Just be aware of that, or find a clutch safety switch friendly lever. I am not sure of your bike year, make or model. My wife's Sporty does not have one, and has scared me a few times, lol! Nothing like holding on the bars for a ride down the road!
Last edited by FXBadass; Aug 26, 2011 at 09:27 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
Thats great advice. Let me just add... I was pretty suprised at the difference the chrome levers made on my bike. And not in the obvious "looks" department. But in the dramatically improved feel of the bike. We only touch our bikes with small parts of our bodies, and the smooth feel of the chrome levers over the stockers was a pretty dramatic change. Very few mods I have done have improved the feel of my bike as much as chrome levers. I suspect you'll really be happy you did this upgrade.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boston, MA
Thanks bikerlaw, I did notice right off the bat the feel and the look (especially) about the left side lever. My bike is a 1995 Heritage and it starts in gear if you want it to. There is a small screw with a shim on the bottom of the old and new lever but I truly don't know what it is for...
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 43
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would these intructions / tips apply to black levers also? I'm getting ready to buy some and swap them out.
HaHa. Just kidding... I couldn't resist.
HaHa. Just kidding... I couldn't resist.
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