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Yes I have watched it, its very informative. What I don't understand is when to cut the pushrods. Right now I am in 6th gear and I rotate the wheel back and forth trying to lower the rods. But I only see the exhaust p rod on the front cyclinder and the intake p rod on the rear cyclinder moving. Don't they all need to be moving up and down at one point? Please help
I just had the TW-777 installed a few weeks ago. Let me know what ya think. I love it.
It might be a while before I actually get to test them out, -15 here in manitoba with a bit of snow. Currently having some issues understanding when to cut the pushrods
Good luck Bro. I would definately pay an indy to do that. I have lost all my patience to do my own work. I wish I had the ***** to do my own work, at least you know what is done is done right.
Breg, just watch the p rods when the two are almost moving at the same time then u cut the other ones do the same method with the opposite lifter. use your fingers if u dont like that just set the ones u cut off in there and watch them when they move at the same time u are ready to cut the others. (there not moving at same time but damn close)
Book-it, thankyou for the advice, that was just what I was looking for. And thank you to the others who givin advice
Originally Posted by Book-it
Breg, just watch the p rods when the two are almost moving at the same time then u cut the other ones do the same method with the opposite lifter. use your fingers if u dont like that just set the ones u cut off in there and watch them when they move at the same time u are ready to cut the others. (there not moving at same time but damn close)
Ok today, I removed the pushrods, changed the inner bearings and installed the new woods 777 cams. Will install new adjustable p rods tomorrow. Couple things I noticed. My sprocket spacer was .110, after installing new cams I had a .014 of a gap. After checking every autoparts/bike store in my town I finally found a .120 thickness spacer and used it so now there is no gap at all between sprockets. Secondly I ordered a inner bearing remover/installer off ebay from heartland products. The installer worked fine, the remover was missing some pieces so I had to impravise with what I had.....rubber mallet hammer. I did take some pics that I may post later in a better thread but the are crappy cell phone pics. The j and p video from bikerschoice was really helpful
Ok today, I removed the pushrods, changed the inner bearings and installed the new woods 777 cams. Will install new adjustable p rods tomorrow. Couple things I noticed. My sprocket spacer was .110, after installing new cams I had a .014 of a gap. After checking every autoparts/bike store in my town I finally found a .120 thickness spacer and used it so now there is no gap at all between sprockets. Secondly I ordered a inner bearing remover/installer off ebay from heartland products. The installer worked fine, the remover was missing some pieces so I had to impravise with what I had.....rubber mallet hammer. I did take some pics that I may post later in a better thread but the are crappy cell phone pics. The j and p video from bikerschoice was really helpful
Im surprised you had to mess with the spacers. When I called Bob Woods i asked him if I needed to buy spacers he said " no. Its a bolt in cam". I also didn't in install my own either so I don't know if the mechanic had to or not.
I was too, I sent Fuelmoto a email asking if the gap was normal or if I needed to fill it with a bigger spacer. Will hold off on the pushrod installation until I get more info. I need to do a little more research and watch the video again to try understand the p rod installation anyway
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