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Fuel Crossover Line removal?

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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #11  
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I just did this on my 98 FLSFT. I think it's much easier if you take the tanks off, unless you have someone who can hold them up while you work...
I went to the local auto parts store and got 2 foot of braided stainless fuel line and 4 hose clamps for like $10.00 I replaced the crossover and vent tine.. didn't replace the one from petcock to carb though.
The cable swapout is easy.. hardest one was the clutch cable, only because you need a new gasket and have to drain the fluid beofre you take the endplate off the tranny..
it's a great feeling working on your ride !
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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Thx for all the info guys. I don't know what I was doing the first time but when I started again after posting I was able to slide the tank back considerably and I have finished my wiring. Tomorrow I am going to tackle my cables. I will try to post it here first before I make a new post but I have some questions about my cables.

Do I need to remove my A/C before I change my throttle/idle cables? Do I have to remove my exhaust before I can change my clutch cable? I am only planning
to change my upper brake line and I have ABS. What's the best/easiest way to bleed the brakes if I have to which I assume I will? Is there anything else I am missing?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:16 AM
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I just removed my tank twice during my top end upgrade, and each time I rode it 'til it was nearly out of gas to make it easier.

I then cut the clip, and had a hose stuck in a gas can for draining. I pulled the crossover off, quickly swapped the end of the drain hose on the fitting, and used my finger to plug the open end of the crossover until the gas was drained. I then put a bolt in the crossover to plug it, and didn't spill much gas in the process.

Your local indy, or stealer, will have the replacement clamps. There's a special crimping tool, or you could carefully use a pair of dikes to crimp it back on when you're done. My buddy let me borrow his, which made it really easy.

Sounds like you got around it though, so that is good. Have fun!

Roger
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:28 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by tunaman
I just removed my tank twice during my top end upgrade, and each time I rode it 'til it was nearly out of gas to make it easier.

I then cut the clip, and had a hose stuck in a gas can for draining. I pulled the crossover off, quickly swapped the end of the drain hose on the fitting, and used my finger to plug the open end of the crossover until the gas was drained. I then put a bolt in the crossover to plug it, and didn't spill much gas in the process.

Your local indy, or stealer, will have the replacement clamps. There's a special crimping tool, or you could carefully use a pair of dikes to crimp it back on when you're done. My buddy let me borrow his, which made it really easy.

Sounds like you got around it though, so that is good. Have fun!

Roger
Personally I'd rather use hose clamps much easier to deal with and so many options to get them in.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:40 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Brutus01
Thx for all the info guys. I don't know what I was doing the first time but when I started again after posting I was able to slide the tank back considerably and I have finished my wiring. Tomorrow I am going to tackle my cables. I will try to post it here first before I make a new post but I have some questions about my cables.

Do I need to remove my A/C before I change my throttle/idle cables? Do I have to remove my exhaust before I can change my clutch cable? I am only planning
to change my upper brake line and I have ABS. What's the best/easiest way to bleed the brakes if I have to which I assume I will? Is there anything else I am missing?
Remove the A/C, don't know if it can be done with it on anyway.

Your exhaust might be blocking getting the trans cover off, which you need to do to R/R the clutch cable. Be very careful unthreading the old cable and threading in the new one in the clutch cover. It is very easy to strip the threads out. Don't over tighten it either. You'll also either need a HUGE set of snap ring pliers, or if you're manly like some guys around here, you can get the eccentric out of the trans cover with a flathead screwdriver.




You can probably reuse your old gasket (gasp!), I did. Some people freak about that. Also, have a pan under there as even with the bike on the side stand you'll likely lose a bit of fluid.

Can't speak on the ABS bleed stuff.

You do have a factory service manual, right?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:48 AM
  #16  
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Just finished my 2011 flstc. Also had to deal with abs. The hardest part was finding an extended upper brake line. I posted a few days ago that the only company that makes a direct fit line is drag specialties. They are braided stainless only, but it fit perfect.

As far as bleeding, I used a mityvac I picked up for about 30 bucks. Worked great, took about 20 min by myself. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder go empty. Keep checking and adding fluid as you go. Pretty easy, so far no issues with brakes at all. Good luck... Ride On!!!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by D94
Just finished my 2011 flstc. Also had to deal with abs. The hardest part was finding an extended upper brake line. I posted a few days ago that the only company that makes a direct fit line is drag specialties. They are braided stainless only, but it fit perfect.

As far as bleeding, I used a mityvac I picked up for about 30 bucks. Worked great, took about 20 min by myself. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder go empty. Keep checking and adding fluid as you go. Pretty easy, so far no issues with brakes at all. Good luck... Ride On!!!
Did you have to have the ABS reset at the dealer? I know when i did mine I took it over to the shop and it cost me around $75 for them to hook up the computer and reset the ABS.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #18  
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Actually no. Just bled them like normal, and fired it up. Drove around felt good, no flashing abs light or anything.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #19  
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Before removing your exhaust to get the tranny cover off cut the short end the allen wrench off so that it'll fit between the exhaust and cover. Can save you the extra work of removing your exhaust.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #20  
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Another vote for two vise grips but I put mine close together in the middle of the fuel line then cut between. Rarely lose more than a drop or two and I'm holding a rag below to catch that. New fuel line and hose clamps when you put it back on and you're good to go.

Plus you now have a bonus - two short little pieces of slightly used fuel line. Put them in your "never know when I'm gonna need this" box. After you pass away it will give your kids an opportunity to shake their heads and ask "What the heck was he thinking, hanging on to all this crap for so many years?"
 
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