Battery cable warning for 07 Softail owners with security systems.
I know that many of you have heard of the batterys shorting out on the oil tank and cooking the oil lines. There have been a couple of guys who have had it happpen to them on here.
I decided to check mine out when I first heard of it and though that mine was OK.
Well when I was putting in the pigtail for a battery tender today I found out that what I had "thought" was the battery cable was in reality just the power line for what I believe is the security system module and not the main cable at all. The real power cablewas hidden underneath and in my case was very close to being cut through by the weld seam on the tanks top edge.
When the battery cable was installed it was ty-wrapped to another wire (I don't know what its for) forcing it to go straight downbetween the battery and the weld seem in the corner. I had to remove the battery to cut the ty-wrap and reposition the cables so the heavier battery cable would go across and down more toward the center of the battery where there is more room for it and it has a plastic covering to protect it better.
The only problem is that the security module doesn't fit on its little plastic clip anymore. But its still lays on top of the front of the battery and the seat doesn't interfere with it. So I think I should be OK with it that way. I may ty-wrap it down later. But at least I don't have to worry about the battery frying the oil lines on me anymore.
So I suggest that anyone with a new Softail look real close at that battery cable, especially if you have a factory installed security system as It seems to be installed in such a way as to camoflage or hide a possibleproblem behind it.
BTW anyone have a clue who's bright idea it was to put the battery in with that stupid rubber piece that's semiglued to the bottom? I wanna smack that fool up side of the head with a 1/2" breaker bar.
When they installed mine the rubber block that's moulded intothe front side of it must have caught on the side of the oil tank and kind of rolled itself up jamming the battery in there. I though I was going to pull the top of the battery off before Ifinally got the silly thing out.
It did it again when I tried to put the battery back in and jammed half way down. I had to pull it outandfinally put the rubber piece in first, drop the battery back in half way, put the cables back on and then I could put it in the rest of the way.
I didn't think of it at the time but if it gives you trouble you might want to put a dab of petrolium jelly on the block face or a little oil where it rubs on the tank side to let it slide in without it rolling up and jamming on you.
Good Luck, and double check that cable. Better a little work now than a cooked bike later.
I thought I had read where there were cable problems with earlier models also.You had to make sure the positive cable was attached to the battery post coming from a horizontal direction so it wouldn't ground out against some thing. I checked my battery cable positioning, since I had unhooked it for installing new lights. I had reattached the cable with it going vertically to the post. I was going to change it but couldn't visually see what it would accomplish. It didn't appear to me that there was any chance of it contacting a metal surface.
The one thing that was odd was the bolts require a 10mm wrench. I thought HDs were all American
Tom
My dodges have metric battery bolts on them too. My guess is its what the batteries come with.
If you just make sure that the tank top seam is smooth and the plastic covering is between the cable and the tank you should be all right. I'm going to have to give some consideration to using myDremmel tool with a grinding stone in therejust to knock the burrs off it. As its completely hidden under the seat I think I can get away with a little baseprimer covered with some of thatrubberized undercoating paint along that edgeto keep things from rusting, and as a little added insulation. Or use a piece ofplastic corner moulding and epoxy it on to cover that top edge.
I don't have my camera around right now, but as soon as I get it back I'll see if I can take a few pics to show you what I mean.
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OK, I opened mine up agan and mine may be unique. The part of the cable that was rubbing was NOT covered by the plastic shielding. And it was rubbing on a section of the seam weld that hadn't been smoothed down enough.
If you just make sure that the tank top seam is smooth and the plastic covering is between the cable and the tank you should be all right. I'm going to have to give some consideration to using myDremmel tool with a grinding stone in therejust to knock the burrs off it. As its completely hidden under the seat I think I can get away with a little baseprimer covered with some of thatrubberized undercoating paint along that edgeto keep things from rusting, and as a little added insulation. Or use a piece ofplastic corner moulding and epoxy it on to cover that top edge.
I don't have my camera around right now, but as soon as I get it back I'll see if I can take a few pics to show you what I mean.
I am looking forward to your pictures. When I checked mine out (2005 Fat Boy) it didn't look like there was anyway for the cable to ground out.You wouldn't think it would require that much additional room for HD to add a cover plate between the seat and the electrics and battery. It would be a lot easier on the cables,etc. when you are taking your seat on and off.
Tom




