Yeah I'm just worried that the sensing part goes thru the primary wires and not the spark plug wires and since I probably have changed the resistance ever so slight, it might give a false reading. Thanks for your imput. I'll have to see how my future tuning runs go and let you all know.

 

Thanks for taking time to pass on this info. I guess I will can now take apart my turn signals and lengthen them with no worries. I have to admit that I'm almost a retard when it comes to electrical work. I can solder and make good crimps I just don't do well with diagrams and schematics. Who knows there is probably a plug under the tank some where for the signals. I wonder what they hook them up to when guys are adding the aux drive light/signals.

 

Want to change my indicators to LED's from Joker Machine and have a 2012 StreetBob with CAN bus. After the info given by Froggy can I assume that this is going to be OK or am I going to need load equalisers? Ive also read somewhere that the CAN bus system takes care of the fast flashing syndrome but could do with that being verified before I part with my hard earned

Thanks

 

misbehaven, your welcome.. and yes there is a connector under the tank for the light and signal wires.

and to clarify my typo.. in the post you quoted..

"you're turn signals aren't hard wired to the switchs."


cl, i'm not sure on the led, load equalizer issue. i haven't dealt with them so hopefully someone with experience on leds will chime in. i do know that leds have a lower resistance compared to reg bulbs and thats why they blink fast. i do believe from my readings here that equalizers aren't needed on the newer bikes. like i said, hopefully someone with experience will let ya know.

 

For what it's worth, I read the same thing myself about the CAN bus and LED combination no longer needing the load equalisers. You can always install the LED and then should you need it order the load equalizer later.

Found it: http://www.customdynamics.com/harley...gnal_retro.htm
Scroll 1/3 down the (long) page:

(2011 - 2012 Softails & 2012 Dyna with Canbus do not require a Load Equalizer, Turn Signals will flash at proper rate, however indicator light on dash will flash faster than normal when both front and rear turns signals are converted to LEDs)


2011-2012 Softail Blacklline and 2012 Softail Slim require Part Can-Adapter when converting rear turn signals to LEDs.

 

The CAN or Controller Area Network on Harleys uses the same SAE J1939 J2411, J2284 and ISO 11898, etc. standards that have been used in the automotive industry for many years now. Harley didn't go out and reinvent the wheel so to speak . . . they went and purchased the system from Delphi and Delphi isn't going to start from scratch for a company that is peanuts compared to the size of a major auto manufacturer. All this said; as others have mentioned, you do NOT want to be messing with the CAN wiring.

With CAN wiring you need to be aware of two things: broadcasters of RFI/EMI and the ability of the computer system to receive unwanted signals. When a modified wiring harness becomes a tuned antennae for a signal that hadn't been a problem until the wiring was changed . . . NOT good!

With respect to broadcasters: Generally changing anything on the bike that could generate sufficiently high levels of RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) or EMI (Electromagnetic Interference); such as replacing Secondary Ignition components like the Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires and the Ignition Coil must be done with an eye towards this. For example: Using non-resister spark plugs or non TV suspression Spark Plug Wires (usually solid core wires are a problem as just one example) can result in some very strange behavior(s) from the computer systems on the bike. Also adding radios, and other electronic toys to the bike can sometimes be an issue depending on how well they are shielded and where they (and their wiring) are placed relative to the rest of the wiring and computers on the bike.

With respect to the receiver aspect: Every wire on the bike that is connected to a computer (module) is a potential antennae for RFI/EMI. A good bit of thought goes into: the actual length of the wires on the bike, where the wires are placed, any additional shielding around the wires, and how the wires are are assembled (ex: twisted pair @ 7 twists per foot usually). 99 times out of 100 messing with the wiring will not generate any problems . . . . but when it does (and it may not do it right away) . . . . buckle up . . . cause it's gonna be a bumpy ride trying to diagnose the problem and then figure out how to make the problem(s) go away.

RMI/EMI problems can get very expensive to deal with because of all the labor time that has to be invested into diagnosing the problem (and all of the nonsense that poorly trained technicians try to do to "Fix" it). Most experienced technicians will start by: 1.) Removing any non-OEM parts, 2.) Disconnecting any added toys, and 3.) Replacing the wiring harness if it was modified in any way. All of this can get rather spendy at today's labor rates,

 

You were right the first time. On 2011 the wires from the turn signals go directly into the controls. I was going to relocate my signals when I changed my handle bars. On pre 2011 bikes the signal wires run down through the bars and connected under the tank. This is no longer the case. That's why I will have to take apart the signals and lengthen the wires from there.

As for needing a load equalizer on 2011 and up I have front and rear LED's and no equalizer is needed. I might also add I have the HD security as well and have had no issues. The blinkers flash at normal speed but the lights on the dash will blink a little faster.

 

As far as LED lights, my 2011 Lo has all LEDs now. I used the HD headlight and custom dynamics integrated brake/signal on the rear and the CD LED inserts for the front turn signals. I don't have any load equalizers and although the stealer did the front signal relo to the forks, it doesn't seem difficult. All they did was lengthen the wires. They only thing that happens is my signal lights on the dash blink faster now but the signals blink the same as before. All of the CD lights are plug n play too.

 

Do you know where they lengthened the wires? Did they have to take apart the signals to do it?

 

This is a great topic for the 11+ bikes, I'm learning alot from everyones inputs and experience thus far. Keep the info comming! I'm deff gonna get a wiring diagram and do more research before I mess with any of it.