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canbus wiring is very sensitive to poor connections and improper repairs.. some signal wires work in the .25 volt range (at least on cars they do), so any increased resistance will put a wrench in the works so to speak..
What kind of mods? don't ever modify any canbus wires, usually a twisted pair. Mike
I'm changing out the bars to 16" apes and bought the NAMZ extensions for the 11-12's and I'm also hoping to use an LED tail light/turn signal integrated unit but when I pulled the stock assembly I put it right back on after what I saw. And the dang aftermarket unit did not have one bit of instructions with it... Imagine that!
I'm changing out the bars to 16" apes and bought the NAMZ extensions for the 11-12's and I'm also hoping to use an LED tail light/turn signal integrated unit but when I pulled the stock assembly I put it right back on after what I saw. And the dang aftermarket unit did not have one bit of instructions with it... Imagine that!
Kind of in the same boat, but not changing the bars. I want to relocate my turn signals to the forks. They are hard wired to the hand controls. Thinking about taking apart the signals and lengthening the wires and running them back through the handle bars and down through the triple trees. But now I see this thread I am second guessing my self.
Not the whole bike is can bus (Controller Area Network) which is used for modules to communicate. Outputs like turn signals should be fine (i did not look up a wiring diagram though). On most vehicles can wires are in a twisted pair to create a field to keep interference out and if you see twisted pair of wires, do not cut into. It would be a good idea to get a wiring diagram. Mike
Not the whole bike is can bus (Controller Area Network) which is used for modules to communicate. Outputs like turn signals should be fine (i did not look up a wiring diagram though). On most vehicles can wires are in a twisted pair to create a field to keep interference out and if you see twisted pair of wires, do not cut into. It would be a good idea to get a wiring diagram. Mike
On a little maybe related topic. I've moved my coil and lengthened the coil wires using a wire crimp. Now I'm wondering if I might have caused a problem with the Ion sensing spark knock detection by messing with the resistance in those lengthed wires? What do you think?
I'm in the process of fine tuning with a Power Vision and I'm not real confident in me spark knock, feedback.
RMC is correct, the only wires you don't want to mess with is the actual communication wiring between modules. indiviual components and their wiring like lights, solenoids, horns, etc... that are controlled by the individual modules are ok to work with.
PS, you're turn signals are hard wired to the switchs. the turn sig switch that you push just sends a signal to the turn signal module, the turn signal module then sends 12v's out to the lights.
On a little maybe related topic. I've moved my coil and lengthened the coil wires using a wire crimp. Now I'm wondering if I might have caused a problem with the Ion sensing spark knock detection by messing with the resistance in those lengthed wires? What do you think?
I'm in the process of fine tuning with a Power Vision and I'm not real confident in me spark knock, feedback.
you are talking about the actual wiring and not the coil to plug wire correct ?
I would think you would be ok as long as you made a good solid connection with the correct guage wire.
On a little maybe related topic. I've moved my coil and lengthened the coil wires using a wire crimp. Now I'm wondering if I might have caused a problem with the Ion sensing spark knock detection by messing with the resistance in those lengthed wires? What do you think?
I'm in the process of fine tuning with a Power Vision and I'm not real confident in me spark knock, feedback.
I am not sure on the ion sensing tech but doubt if the primary wiring if done correctly will affect it. Most problems come from secondary issues, non oem plugs and wires. Mike
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