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I have been trying to read up as much as I can about what oil to use. I ran up on an article last week that talked about using a car oil by Mobil 1 rather than Mobil's bike oil but I forgot to save the page. Has anyone ran their bike this way for an extended length of time? I like Mobil's oil, I run their synthetic in most of my stuff. The main reason I'm asking is I believe in running the best oil, I feel it saves money and parts in the long run!
Why would you want to run automobile Mobil 1 as opposed to V-Twin Mobil 1??? The latter is specially formulated for air cooled V-Twin engines... I've been running it since my first oil change. Can't for the life of me guess as to any benefit running something designed for an automobile when there is a specific formulation for my bike.
I like M1 in the crank case and clutch, and run the M1 gear oil in the transmission. Works fine for me.
I think I have been misunderstood, I wasn't trying to say I wanted to run car oil. I read an article on that and just wanted to throw that out there. I am in no way trying to be cheap on my oil or filter, that's one area I don't pay attention to price. I was just curious to see what everyone was running, liked, and had the best results from before I picked everything up. This being my first Harley I know the people on here have owned them way longer than I have (I'm sure a few longer than I've been alive ) sounds like the people skimping on car oil might have new engines in their future....... Hmmm maybe running car oil wouldn't be a bad idea, then I can tell the wife I HAVE to have a new engine, she will never know the difference between stock and a stroker
Potential for leaks & noisy engines with syn. Not to mention the cost. Vehicles have been running dyno for over 100 years with no problems.--why change? I just use the crap they sell at the dealership, so there's no doubt.
Look into Amsoil MCV 20w-50. I have run it in all three places, engine/trans/primary, for 20k+, and I haven't had any issues. I switched over at 500 miles in the bike. It makes things simple.
I do not have any issue finding "N", the bike shifts smooths without a clunk, and I don't have any clutch slippage. Just a suggestion. I am not saying it is the best. It just works for me.
Truth is that if you follow the oil change interval recommended it probably won't matter much what you run, it won't be in there long enough to get even close to breaking down.
The advantages of synthetics come in when you try to extend the oil life beyond the recommended change intervals. If it worries you drop the 25 bucks or whatever it is on an oil analysis. If you send off your oil at the recommended change mileage you will almost certainly get an analysis report that says your oil is still doing everything it's supposed to. What else can you ask for?
My thought on the whole thing is that there is probably not much risk to using older oils, or even car oils, in my engine but since the new stuff is out there why not use it? If the technology helps, great, and if it's just marketing then I'm wasting what, maybe an extra 20 bucks an oil change?
My input is pay attn to your torques on the fluid plugs. Manual is a varible spec, somthng like 14-22 lbs? I set mine at 18 cause I know I'm gonna hit another click once I hear the first one just to be sure...laffs
I recently switched to Amsoil 20-50 synthetic and so far have witnessed a 15-20 degree drop in oil temps so just for that reason I would never use dino oil again..
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