bleeding front brakes (2011 blackline)
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From: FL
bleeding front brakes (2011 blackline)
Gents, i have had the opportunity to watch the process of bleeding brakes first hand and would like to share the knowledge with you. first i am speaking for the 2011 softail blackline only as i have that bike and have done it and seen it done on this type of bike.
The blackline has separate braking systems (front and back) when changing out to apes (like i did) or simply changing out fluids it is still the same. step by step...
1. don't touch the caliper by the wheel whatsoever. that is never needed to bleed (although some might disagree). bubbles go up not down...remember that
2. remove the Master Cylinder cover.
3. grab a wrench that fits the bolt by the MC cover.
4. here it gets tricky, crack the bolt (by the MC) open till its semi loose.
5. then squeeze the brake (fluids will spill from the nut its okay you might hear air dribblets which is good), cover your damn tank fool!!!
6. then close the bolt.
7. slowly release the brake.
8. do this a 5 to 6 times and each time you should see bubbles in the master cylinder.
9. after the last closing of the bolt and slow release of the brake lever, pump the brake SLOWLY a few times you should still see bubbles. by this time the lever should be taunt..if it is move to the next step...if not see step 5 through 8
10, NEXT STEP!! when you pump the brake and no bubbles are present, take a rag and soak up all the existing MC fluid you have left (in the MC)(the bleeding process takes up all in your MC fluids).
11. fill MC with DOT 3 or 4, the top cover of your top MC will state if its 3 or four, if your like me, and skipped a step, auto zone has a blend that covers both.
12. replace MC cover
13. roll bike on neutral , then press front brakes, if it stops grab a beer your done, if it doesn't, well i dunno, it worked for me.
jay
The blackline has separate braking systems (front and back) when changing out to apes (like i did) or simply changing out fluids it is still the same. step by step...
1. don't touch the caliper by the wheel whatsoever. that is never needed to bleed (although some might disagree). bubbles go up not down...remember that
2. remove the Master Cylinder cover.
3. grab a wrench that fits the bolt by the MC cover.
4. here it gets tricky, crack the bolt (by the MC) open till its semi loose.
5. then squeeze the brake (fluids will spill from the nut its okay you might hear air dribblets which is good), cover your damn tank fool!!!
6. then close the bolt.
7. slowly release the brake.
8. do this a 5 to 6 times and each time you should see bubbles in the master cylinder.
9. after the last closing of the bolt and slow release of the brake lever, pump the brake SLOWLY a few times you should still see bubbles. by this time the lever should be taunt..if it is move to the next step...if not see step 5 through 8
10, NEXT STEP!! when you pump the brake and no bubbles are present, take a rag and soak up all the existing MC fluid you have left (in the MC)(the bleeding process takes up all in your MC fluids).
11. fill MC with DOT 3 or 4, the top cover of your top MC will state if its 3 or four, if your like me, and skipped a step, auto zone has a blend that covers both.
12. replace MC cover
13. roll bike on neutral , then press front brakes, if it stops grab a beer your done, if it doesn't, well i dunno, it worked for me.
jay
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