Removing levers
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Cruiser
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Removing levers
I just purchased a chrome master cylinder and clutch perch with switch housings for my 06 deuce. I found the instructions here on the forum for changing them out and it looks pretty simple. I've had most of it apart when I upgraded the grips, except for the levers.I need a few tips or secrets that anyone has for the levers and brake light sensor (best way not to damage the sensor) and how do you adjust the clutch cable for slack so you can remove the lever and the best way to adjust it back and how to tell if it's adjusted properly.
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RE: Removing levers
Just last weekend I replaced the levers on my '02 Train with black ones. It's actually easy. For the brake, don't worry about the switch... Just remove the clip under the lever pivot, pull the pin, and pull out the lever. Place the new lever in the mount, replace the pin, and put the clip back on. Mine took about 2-3 minutes, after I got the %^$! clip off.
For the clutch, the adjuster is inline, down the frame tube. Pull back the accordian boot, make note of how many threads are showing, then loosen the locknut, and turn the adjuster til you get slack at the lever- you'll know very quickly. Replace the leevr much the same as the brake at this point. Re-adjust the cable til it looks right, then start the bike and check for 'feel'. adjust the cable til the clutch 'feels' right (same as before work).
This is what I did, and doing both levers ended up taking under 1/2 hour. Good luck!
For the clutch, the adjuster is inline, down the frame tube. Pull back the accordian boot, make note of how many threads are showing, then loosen the locknut, and turn the adjuster til you get slack at the lever- you'll know very quickly. Replace the leevr much the same as the brake at this point. Re-adjust the cable til it looks right, then start the bike and check for 'feel'. adjust the cable til the clutch 'feels' right (same as before work).
This is what I did, and doing both levers ended up taking under 1/2 hour. Good luck!
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: The People's Republic of New Jersey
RE: Removing levers
ORIGINAL: jbt
Just last weekend I replaced the levers on my '02 Train with black ones. It's actually easy. For the brake, don't worry about the switch... Just remove the clip under the lever pivot, pull the pin, and pull out the lever. Place the new lever in the mount, replace the pin, and put the clip back on. Mine took about 2-3 minutes, after I got the %^$! clip off.
For the clutch, the adjuster is inline, down the frame tube. Pull back the accordian boot, make note of how many threads are showing, then loosen the locknut, and turn the adjuster til you get slack at the lever- you'll know very quickly. Replace the leevr much the same as the brake at this point. Re-adjust the cable til it looks right, then start the bike and check for 'feel'. adjust the cable til the clutch 'feels' right (same as before work).
This is what I did, and doing both levers ended up taking under 1/2 hour. Good luck!
Just last weekend I replaced the levers on my '02 Train with black ones. It's actually easy. For the brake, don't worry about the switch... Just remove the clip under the lever pivot, pull the pin, and pull out the lever. Place the new lever in the mount, replace the pin, and put the clip back on. Mine took about 2-3 minutes, after I got the %^$! clip off.
For the clutch, the adjuster is inline, down the frame tube. Pull back the accordian boot, make note of how many threads are showing, then loosen the locknut, and turn the adjuster til you get slack at the lever- you'll know very quickly. Replace the leevr much the same as the brake at this point. Re-adjust the cable til it looks right, then start the bike and check for 'feel'. adjust the cable til the clutch 'feels' right (same as before work).
This is what I did, and doing both levers ended up taking under 1/2 hour. Good luck!
-Randy
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RE: Removing levers
Thanks!! I used a sharpie and marked the threads and the nut and put it back exactly where it was. Works great. I appreciate the help.
I got everything done but the master cylinder. The new one says use DOT 5 only and of course I haveDOT 4 from harley in the MC and the line. I'll have to take it to an indy shop locally and have them install the MC and purge the line and add the DOT 5 if thats REALLY what I have to use. I'm making some phone calls in the morning about the fluid. That doesn't seem right unless the seals in the new MCneed to have DOT 5.
I got everything done but the master cylinder. The new one says use DOT 5 only and of course I haveDOT 4 from harley in the MC and the line. I'll have to take it to an indy shop locally and have them install the MC and purge the line and add the DOT 5 if thats REALLY what I have to use. I'm making some phone calls in the morning about the fluid. That doesn't seem right unless the seals in the new MCneed to have DOT 5.
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