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I'll start my bracket fabrication soon. Seems like a pretty easy move.
The stock wiring seems long enough to make the coil move without extending the wiring to it. Now if I only had another one of the stock "short" spark plug wires, I would be all set.
Pretty sure you need to extend the wiring...
DK Custom comes materials to do this, though I did not use it. I chose to extend the wires by soldiering in extensions, covered in adhesive lined heat shrink. Seals out any moisture.
Good tip to know about switching the C/D wires to run the coil with the plug wires coming out the bottom!
maybe i am strange but i liked the way the cowbell for the horn looked better than the coil cover so i fabbed my own bracket and used the cowbell to hide the coil. I had to swap the c/d wires in the coil tho so i could turn it upside down and not have to cross the wires.
This is probably a realy dumb question, but where do you move the horn to? or is it just removed?
I moved my horn to an empty space behind the exhaust and next to the clutch housing cover (the thing that says 'six speed' on the side)..can't hear the horn over the exhaust now, but oh well
Extend the wires by soldering in about 12 inches of new wire. That will give you plenty of slack to mock it up and keep you from having to solder twice like I did. The you can just cut the excess off after you run it up the backbone of the frame and get it tucked in place.
I moved my horn to the same spot Sgt Jim did but I can hear mine over my D&D just fine. I did angle the horn opening up instead of down tho for that reason.
Thx for the props guys. It's really pretty easy to fab your own bracket out of some fly stock and paint it. I think I have about $10 in the material to do it.
Thinking about relocating my coil to the mount that holds the horn on most softails (my horn, as you can see, is on the forks).
My concern is that having the coil located where a cowbell usually resides may impair the airflow around the cylinders and consequently raise engine temps. Since I have true duals, the fake "seatpost" can easily be removed if I relocate the coil (aiding cooling, I suspect).
Anyone who has relocated the coil have any first-hand experience with this?
ive done the mod over a year ago it works fine..coil under cow bell its very tight but will fit or you could just get the rocker c coil/ign combo
the fake seat post isnt easily removed ..be patient or you will scratch everything doing so..
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