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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 02:47 PM
  #11  
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I've tightened a few spokes both front and rear on my '12 Heritage. Not a big deal. As the belt stretches and the wheels wear in I expect a few early maintenance chores.

The deal breaker will come if and when I run out of threads on the spokes. If, as some have suggested elsewhere, the hub is soft and is allowing the spokes to loosen, then there are problems ahead for all.

Stay tuned...in the meantime "tink" the spokes for tone and tighten the low notes to match the others.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #12  
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It's not just a 2012 problem. The FLSTC rear spokes should be checked often, my 07's were loose at 5,000& 10,000 miles, scarey loose.I found a local indy ( Toledo Ohio ) That was able to tell me what model of HD I owned by the problem before I told him. So thanks to HOMERS CYCLES. I'm looking at cast wheels this year.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #13  
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ITS been a real issue on the new bikes it seems......

On my 07, I check them every spring... I only had a issue the second Yr... Dealer service was possed to check them (which they did the first 4)... NOT... I found them my-self when I checked them at 16k...... 9 on the front and 7 on the rear--- not right.. not really loose but not like the others.. Just a little loose.

There has been a lot of threads in here EVERY yr for owners to check them.....

I don't know what's with the new bikes.... but there has been a lot of threads and post about the new ones really being bad... Some Soooo freaking bad it causes a wobble....

If Urs are loose I would gooo straight to my DEALER let them take care of it....

It seems the the newer wheels are made in China,, and maybe of poorer quality spokes.

I've read in here a lot of new bikes do have spokes that are loose.. If U don't let the dealer take care of the problem,, MoCo won't know there is a problem...


My .02 cents..



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Last edited by oct1949; Jul 2, 2012 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #14  
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I called the dealer and they had me bring the bike in today they will fix the problem under warranty and I will get it back in 2 days only 4000 miles on it. When I asked if this was a problem that they were seeing all they would tell me was with the bad road conditions lately they were seeing more of it. This past winter was the warmest I can remember and the roads have been great I go around pot holes anyway
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #15  
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Keep track of everything involved with this, fffffish. When H-D finally recalls this you gonna want to be armed. JMHO.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #16  
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My 07 Heritage had lots of lose and broken spokes on the rear wheel. it's been good so far this year. knock on wood.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #17  
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my friends heritage has been in 3 times for this issue, it only has 2,000 miles. crappy- crappy
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #18  
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Not sure, but I suppose having a few loose spokes could put extra duty on the rest that are still tight. That might lead to their premature failure. SM calls for 55 in/# torque on the threaded adjuster, but most of us grew up using the "tink" test before specialized spoke torque wrenches were developed.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by PA1195
Not sure, but I suppose having a few loose spokes could put extra duty on the rest that are still tight. That might lead to their premature failure. SM calls for 55 in/# torque on the threaded adjuster, but most of us grew up using the "tink" test before specialized spoke torque wrenches were developed.
Is that true? Just make them 55 inch pounds and call it a day?
I won't run the risk of un-truing the wheel will I?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 12:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Gliden
Is that true? Just make them 55 inch pounds and call it a day?
I won't run the risk of un-truing the wheel will I?
It's spelled out in the service manual. My 2011 SM specifies a proceedure that requires tightening the spokes in groups, and uses a torque wrench (they're available pre-set or adjustable) set to 55 in/lbs with sized jaws to grip the spoke.

They want the mechanic to first loosen the nipple a 1/4 turn, then torque presumably to eliminate starting friction. They also describe how far to turn the nipple if the torque isn't reached within a quarter turn, or reaches it before a quarter turn. Wrenches and adapters are available online.

But, my process varies some and I do the torque test, or quick tink (one generally equals the other within reason), similar to what you suggest. I first do one, then the opposite spoke in the similar spoke group across the wheel, not one then the next and so on.

Disclaimer: The manual's steps should be followed and are well described.
 
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