Ordered the Nacelle Kit (67907-96C, $355.96) and the Visor Bezel, 7-Headlamp (69733-05, $34.83) from surdyke.com on June 22 and received it June 28. WOW While putting the post together, I noticed the new price as of today for the Nacelle went up to $400.08!! Well, if you order over $199 in parts from surdyke between now and midnight, July 4th, use the code FREEDOM199 to at least get free shipping which was $32 for the parts I just bought!

Overall the install isn't bad if you are prepared and have everything you'll need. Before you get started, get a 4" grinder with a cut-off wheel and grinding disc, a step down drill bit (1/2") and two 5x16-24x1 1/2" bolts. It turned out to be one of those jobs I almost wish I'd have just paid someone to do. But I'm starting to feel that way about everything anymore and I guess with the temps over 100 the heat didn't help in the garage any either. LOL

Before removing the light bar I covered it painters tape and then cover the front fender with a heavy blanket to rest the light bar on and protect the paint etc, remove the headlight trim, headlight, you'll cut the connector to the headlamp at the connector, remove the bucket and you're ready for the install.

Before beginning the install, you'll need to drill a 1/2" hole in the backside on the left side for the driving lamp toggle switch. The step down drill bit from Harbor Freight made this easier than screwing around with multiple drill bits etc. The Nacelle instructions don't cover this, but the hardware kit instructions do. Anyway, the hole will need to be measured 4 1/2" down from the top and 3/4" in from the inside on the left half of the Nacelle. Cover with painters, mark and drill.

Next in the preparation before even fitting the Nacelle, making sure the bike is covered well, you'll want to grind down the tabs on the inside of the light bar where it mounts to the forks. Otherwise the light bar won't fit and you'll possibly scratch up the Nacelle trying to stretch (bend) it around it to fit. Just grind the bolt hole tabs down for a easier fit. Maybe 1/4" on the top tab and 1/8" on the bottom. I did't really measure, just put the Nacelle on, holding it together with some painters tape and you can hold the light bar up to see how much you need to take off. Some folks I know grind the tabs all the way down/off.

I removed the Nacelle after mocking up getting the light bar fitted and used the old front upper tree cover to measure out my cut outs for the light bar wiring on each side. You can probably get away without doing this part, but I wanted a clean fit like it was with the stock upper tins. The Nacelle should be covered in painters tape, so once you transfer the measurement from the old upper tin, using your grinder with cut-off wheel (or dremel) notch the lower section, approximately 1/4"x3/8".


I didn't order the hardware kit, but it probably would come in handy especially if you have the detachable windshield. I may go ahead and order it, but in the meantime I just picked up two 5x16-24x1 1/2" bolts for the top because the bolts that come with kit are not long enough. The new bolts are fine for the bottom two holes (one each side).

When wiring up the new headlight connector using the connectors they provide, you'll find the new connector only has 1 yellow, black and white wire. The old wiring has 2 existing yellow and 2 existing black and 1 white wire. You just trim the ends, twist the 2 existing together and mate them up with the new connector wires using the connectors provided with the kit. You'll see what I mean once you get into it.

When assembling the new visor, I followed the instructions and installed the Visor over the new headlamp ring and have the gap everyone complains about. I'm going to try one of the fixes I read in another thread (post #49) which is removing the new Nacelle headlight ring, buying some wide weather stripping and line the inside of the Visor and try putting it on without the Nacelle headlamp ring to see if it'll remove the gap at the seam of the new Visor.

The riser cover for some crazy reason doesn't fit flush on both sides and on the right side of the Nacelle at the top, there is nearly 1/2" gap, however, the the left side is flush on top of the Nacelle. Crazy as hell because the at the bottom of the Nacelle, the gap is the same between the Nacelle and the cowbells, and the two side bolt holes on each side of the Nacelle don't leave much wiggle room around the holes. But luckily 2010deluxeguy gave me a great idea to fix that, just trim some of the top cover so it sets down further on the high side. Sounds like it'll work! LOL

The rest, just read over the instructions, but wanted to share the above information because I don't think it was covered very well, if at all, in the instructions. Sorry I didn't get many install pics but it smoking hot in the garage and I wasn't in the mood for a lot of picture taking! LOL If I can help you, just PM me or I can send you my cell number if need be.

I did snap a few pics yesterday after she was back together. And I'm loving the new Heritage Springer seat! It is amazingly comfortable!

A big thanks to Pooch for all the support and patience with my million PMs! LOL You saved my *** brother!

 

That bike is bad a**

 

Dean, looks the Dogs man, more than happy with mine, reading your fitting, was exactly how I did it, well apart from having to source the two new bolts that is, once I found out I needed longer, nice job!
One thing I have been thinking about, was to change my trim rings to the visor type & now looking at yours on (great pics) I'm gonna change them, it's makes it look even better!

 

Thanks for the tips Dean! They'll come in real handy shortly.

 

Thanks! Almost finished...haha Yea, right! lol

Si, thanks brother! So your riser cover needed trimmed out to fit flush on top? I'd had a few cold ones, but damn, I thought maybe the heat had my eyes all jacked up! lol The visor definitely adds another dimension and looks awesome. The visors were one of my first mods...always thought they gave it a nice retro feel and look. Even with the stock bucket the visor made it look beefy.

Your welcome brother! Hope they help....just a few things if I'd have known may have turned into a 2 beer job instead of 6 and a few miles run around town look for bits and fresh cut off wheels. LOL Next up the stretched fender and wireless/cableless controls! Found some that looked pretty sweet but they were like $1,900 for the set up plus I'd have to get some custom bars made (I think). Those will be my final two mods, fender and cabless controls. Well....then I guess it's time for cams and some motor work. HAHA

 

Straight CHOLO ****, DEAN!!! Damn!!! I'm about ready to KILL DNA!!! 6 weeks since I ordered my wheels, rotors and pulley and NADA!! I already got my tires waiting!!!

The NACELLE HEADLIGHT is pure TETAS on your bike with beach bars...you make me wanna cut down my legs about 3 inches so i can change out the apes...PALABRA!!

 

Oh sorry Dean, no I didn't have to trim the riser cover, it had plenty of clearance with my risers. Yeah, I had the trim rings fitted without the visor, they just equally sat proud around the lamps, was always happy with these ones but prefer the visor type with the Nacelle.

Surely your rides done now Dean? It sure is still the Dogs & I can't see it wanting for out else?

 

Definitely makes your ryde look tougher, brotha!!! Great look!! Happy Hour here in 90 minutes. Cheers to ya!

 

Looks killer Dean, The Deluxe should come with the Nacelle as standard, nice job, I didnt do my own but the indy phoned me and told me there was a gap in the trim ring, so I told him to fit it without the ring inside, and to put some tape inside the visor ring, as you describe, and it fixes the gap.
Nice job, still need some amber passing lamps though....LOL

 

I like the looks but after reading what you went through...no thanks.