One of these will crimp the connector nicely. Then just a dab of solder for insurance.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250903182158...84.m1497.l2649

 

Thanks! Just bought it.

Now, what size are those molex connectors. Lol

 

There is so little current being carried by those wires that it doesn't really matter what size connector you use. The smallest size that you can handle is probably your best bet (easily tucked away). Strip enough wire to fill the area between the inner crimp joint and where the wire dead-ends in the connector (roughly between the two arrows, below). Tin the bare wire end. Do this by holding the heated tip of the iron to one side of the wire and the solder to the other side of the wire. The solder will flow when the wire is hot enough. Melt just enough so that the solder wicks into the wire. Lay the wire end into the molex connector and bend the inner crimps onto the wire to hold it. If you stripped the length correctly, the outer crimps can be bent onto the wire insulation and will act as a strain relief. Now, using the same technique as when you were tinning the bare wire, heat the inner crimp connector (which is now holding the wire) and solder the wire to the connector. DO NOT melt hot solder onto a cold connector. That will create what's known as a cold solder joint, and is guaranteed to cause you intermittent problems down the road. Next, slip the heat shrink tubing over and beyond the newly soldered connection, slide the male/female molex together, and slide the heat shrink over the connector joint (it needs to be long enough to cover all exposed metal plus a bit more, due to shrinkage). Use a hair dryer (or a match, if you are careful) to shrink the tubing around the assembled connector and you're done. The shrink tubing will protect the electrical connection from the elements, electrically insulate it, and add a little mechanical reinforcement. If you ever need to dissasemble the joint, just slit the tubing lengthwise with a box cutter.

No special tools are needed for this job, though a sturdy set of needle-nose pliers will facilitate making the crimps without damaging anything. If the solder doesn't flow within a couple seconds, you may have to tin the soldering iron tip - melt solder onto the tip until it is shiny and covered. Let it "cook" a few seconds, and then wipe it clean with a damp rag or sponge. It took longer to type this than it will take you to do the job.



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Great write up! Thanks a ton man!

I am going to do the front turn signal bar and then pull my rear alloy art sigs and put a molex on those so its easily disassembled if needed (like you suggested earlier). I wish I had done that to begin with....it would have been easier to now try to figure out why my left one isn't working and why I am blowing the battery fuse when I use the load equalizer. Lol

 

Just FYI, before you drive yourself crazy troubleshooting the blowing fuse…
My first load equalizer had a miswired connector, causing it work normally on one side and just extinguish the light on the other side. Maybe you have something similar going on.

 

One other question with regards to wiring the front turn signal bar.

Wouldn't it be easier for me to get some OEM Harley male molex connections and put them on the end of the turn signal bar wiring and plugged that directing in the "hot" port of the molex connector that plugs into the harness? Rather than cut the original turn sign wires and putting a male and female in the middle so I would have the OEM plug and wire, into a female and the male would come from the turn signal bar.

I am thinking it would be easier to just plug it right into the connector and not have to use a female at all?

 

That may be the problem but even without the LE connected, my left turn signal decided to stop working. I'm sure there is something going on with where I spliced the wires. I just hooked them together and soldered them together and put heat shrink on them. But in doing that, I did notice that when I stripped the wires it was exactly clean and some of the wires got stripped too far back.... that may be causing me to not have a good connection. That's why I am thinking of just starting over and putting the male/female connectors on.

 

I found these on ebay. Looks like they are OEM Harley molex male and female pieces. A little more expensive but since I am familiar with the NAMZ wire extensions, this puts my mind at ease with working with them because I have used them before.... now just gotta wire them up using your directions.

Here is what I bought:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=250913521819

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=250913591998

 

Might want to get a 4 or 6 pin. If you're only doing the sigs, the stock connector under the tank is a 6 pin. That 16 pin connector is gonna be a little overkill.

 

Actually, I don't need the connector itself, I will use the one from the original turn signals. But the only way I could find male and female pieces is they came with the connectors....I'll just put them in the stash of stuff labeled "might need one day". Lol