You might have better luck sneaking your Deluxe into the cargo area of the plane.

 

Looks Likes Yur Gunna Have some Fun ,

 

olongapo, thanks for the tips!

 

micahpop Fuel moto has a whole run of cam,head and cyl how to video's on you tube.

And a good write up here on the forum. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-write-up.html

 

Very cool. I was hoping you might be closer so we could ride one day.

 

Good luck. Have fun with it. I was anxious when I did mine, too. Turned out ok I guess. Was able to ride it all summer! What are you putting in?

 

good luck, look forward to the pics, i have the SEtensioner upgrade kit, maybe i dhould try instal that!! lol

 

Thanks softy, I'll have to check those videos out. And yeah, that cam thread on the touring side is a good resource as well.

I usually ride up to Yosemite at least once a year and go right through Fresno up 41 north. I'll hit you up next year when it's warm enough to ride up there.

I'm putting in Andrews 48H.

Kiwi, go for it and do cams while you're in there!

 

Alright, here we go. I spent a few hours tonight on this and here's my little write up.

*Disclaimer: This is not intended to be a comprehensive installation guide – more of an overview of steps and possibly some helpful tips. Please follow the specific directions in your service manual. Failure to do so may result in serious injury or even DEATH!

If you are going to re-use your stock push rods, there's more labor involved. If you would rather not bother with pulling the tank and going in through the rocker boxes, you will need to purchase adjustable push rods – in which case, you can cut the stock ones off. I decided to re-use the stockers (since I was taking the tank off anyway) and thus, saved about $150. Removing the push rods was the part of the process that I had the most doubts about since I couldn't find a lot of info on how to do it. In most threads and how-to videos, they just cut them off with bolt cutters. Turns out it wasn't difficult at all.

I’ll assume you know how to remove the tank and go from there.

Remove the six bolts from the rocker box cover and remove cover. This is what you will see once you've got the cover off.



Using a small flat screwdriver, pry the spring cap retainer off the push rod tube cover – all 4 look to be exactly the same so I didn't label them. If they are not all the same, someone please let me know - although at this point, there's nothing I can really do about it anyway...

Next, you need to find TDC which was probably the hardest part of anything I did tonight. The manual says to raise the rear wheel off the ground, shift into 6th gear and turn the wheel in a clockwise direction (when viewed from the right side of bike). It was not easy turning the motor over this way! (Yes, I did remove the spark plugs ) You’re supposed to put your finger over the spark plug hole and feel the air pushing out as the piston’s coming up on its compression stroke but this was not easy. As soon as I felt air coming out, I stuck a straw in the hole and watched it rise and fall. I knew that since it was on the compression stroke, I needed to turn the wheel until the straw went down and up and down again before coming back up on compression. I had to do it this way because I needed both arms (and shoulders and back and quads) to turn the dang wheel – ok, maybe I’m exaggerating a little but it was freakin hard. It looked pretty effortless on the videos…

Once you've found TDC, remove the two bolts from the breather assembly. Depending on the year of your bike, you may not be able to fully remove the inside bolt because it will hit the frame backbone. I struggled with this for awhile because the Harley manual says to remove the breather assembly. (edit - looking at the manual again, I see that it says to "release" the assembly and not "remove"). I searched online and found that others had left the assembly on and removed it together with the rocker arm plate (next step) which is what I ended up doing. But you still must completely loosen both bolts or the rocker arm plate will not come off.



Remove the 4 bolts from the rocker arm plate – follow the pattern in the manual. It says to loosen each bolt a quarter turn and continue following the pattern. This takes some time to keep turning each bolt a quarter turn at a time but I’m assuming there’s a good reason for this - probably so the plate loosens evenly? Once you've got all the bolts removed, gently pull the plate off. You’ll be able to see the tops of the push rods.

 

Remove the push rods and mark their location (ft/rear cylinder, right/left). They should just slide right out. On my bike, one is black and the other is metal colored. I'm assuming they're like that on all bikes?

The push rod tube covers can now be removed by hand with a little bit of wiggling. Be sure to remove the o-rings in the cylinder bores – they will be stuck on there. You should have 3 o-rings per tube – one on each end and one in the middle under the spring collar. Once I had everything off, I put all the parts in separate containers so I wouldn't confuse front and rear cylinder parts.



A shot of the rocker arms and breather assembly - just because.




From this point on, you can pretty much just follow the youtube video that OkieNiteTrain posted. Like I said, I've watched that video several times to familiarize myself with the process. It’s a very well done video.

When you pull the cam cover, this is what you see.



In the video, they don’t remove the cam chain tensioner but I had to because the bolt for the cam support plate that is right next to it would not come out otherwise. And not having the tensioner made removing the sprockets and chain easier as well.



Before pulling out the cam support plate, you need to hold the lifters up. The service manual says to use modified binder clips and I’m sure they work fine but I’m a dummy and would probably screw that up plus I like shiny new things so I bought the magnetic lifter holders from Harley. You just plop them into the holes and the magnets hold the lifters up and hence, the name.



One thing I want to note – when you pull the cam support plate, a little bit of oil is supposed to drip out. In my case, almost 3 qts came out! I think it’s because I did an oil change right before I pulled the tank so the oil didn't have a chance to circulate and thus, most of what was in the oil tank slowly came draining out. I confirmed this with the dipstick and flashlight – the tank is dry. So don’t be a dummy like me and do an oil change right before a cam swap!



You can see that one of the lifters had fallen down. I just lifted it back up onto the magnet. Hope that's ok...

A peak into the lifter holes.