Hey guys. I just got my first Harley, a 91 softail custom. The clutch disengages (or is it engages....I can never remember) as soon as the lever is 1 millimeter from the grip. I read the forums, looked at the videos and got my shop manual right in front of me. I've got the derby cover off and the cable backed off....but when I try to turn the locknut to break it loose the whole primary turns. What have I done wrong? Or what should I do?

 

Well, call off the rescue, I figured it out. A tiny little bump with my cordless impact wrench got it loose. Got it adjusted and got everything back together. Works better now, the lever action is about 1/2" from the grip. Does that sound right?

 

I am adjusting mine right now. I seem to remember seeing something about having an 1/8" of play in the lever before you start to get tension when pulling it in.

Bottom line is just adjust it to your liking, that is what I am gonna do.

 

Be certain to back off the adjustable bolt 1/2 to 3/4 turn after making soft contact. Be certain that when tightening down the nut that the bolt doesn't turn out of adjustment.

Take up cable play and leave a 1/8" free play at lever to keep the throw out bearing loose when clutch is engaged (lever released).

I find the clutch disengagement point to be more appropriately adjusted when you get release (disengagement) and contact (engagement) at about the halfway point of the lever's travel. Often this is just a matter of cable adjustment.

If the clutch makes contact with the lever too close to the bars it may not release completely and burn up the clutch. If the clutch releases is too close to the lever being fully released you may have too much travel and again damage the clutch, or bearing.

Isn't it sweet when it works right and smoothly.

My own preference is to be able to slightly pull the lever (25 degrees) and get full release to be able to drop it into gear. Having to pull the clutch lever down any more to the bar to get release is a lot of excess gripping and movement of the lever. Only time I pull the lever to the bars is at a full stop, or on take off. While cruising down the road I go through the gears by lightly gripping and slightly pulling on the lever, never having to bring it close to, or against the bars to shift.

 

I like mine to catch way out...far from the grip. With my small hands it is easier for me to pull it in a little than to have to grab a handful all the way to the grip, but that is simply adjusting the cable to your liking.

 

I ended up getting a Dog bone wrench to snug the nut up, U can put Ur allen T handle to hold the screw while tightening the nut up through it. Really helped make the job easier.

Also DONT over tighten that Nut,, several in here have Stripped the bolt and really end up in a mess and the fix ain't Cheap $$$$..

Check Ur book for TQ value on the nut,, it ain't as much as one would think...













.

 

I'm not sure how you could even use a torque wrench on that locknut while still holding the set screw with the allen wrench. But either way I did not go crazy on the tightness, just nice and snug. I think another part of the problem is I have these crazy fat grips on there. I don't know what kind they are, but they have flames and long tassles which whip the crap out of my arms whilst going down the road. I really need to replace them. I love the old coke bottle grips. Nice and grippy, and not too big.

 

[quote=JohnnyC;10635954]
I find the clutch disengagement point to be more appropriately adjusted when you get release (disengagement) and contact (engagement) at about the halfway point of the lever's travel. Often this is just a matter of cable adjustment.

quote]

I'm new at this so forgive my question, but I thought ajusting the cable was for setting the lever "free play" correctly....and that setting the engagement point was done under the derby cover? Is that incorrect?

 

YES, the mechanical adjustment has the most control over release / engagement point.

Even with the mechanical adjustment set in the precise point, and an 1/8" play, you may still need to adjust the release / engagement point slightly. Once the mechanical is set, then you have to compensate with the cable.

You will get some variance due to clutch and cable wear. A little "give and take" with the cable will put the engagement / release point exactly where you like it.

Or you could open it all back up and re-adjust the mechanical adjustment under the derby cover, which needs to be backed off at least a 1/2 turn.

 

Crow's foot with an extension. There is a little math when using one on a torque wrench as you have lengthen the wrench, but I would have to dig out an A&P manual to give you the formula. I doubt if most people do either though.