Clutch Adjustment
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
Clutch Adjustment
I have a 2006 Heritage Classic. When shifting to first gear while at a stop, with clutch pulled all the way in, I was grinding gears. I followed the shop manual instructions and adjusted the clutch today. The grinding noise is gone, but now, I am getting a slight lurch forward when I drop into first from neutral. I don't remember if it also did this before. Is some lurching forward okay, or do I need to keep adjusting some more?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,257
Likes: 2
From: Gastonia, NC
You might notice some change when the temps get cooler this time of year. Unless you adjusted the clutch way too loose I don't think it would be the issue. Mine grabs a little more this time of the year. Hold your clutch in, count to five, and then put it into gear from neutral.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,394
Likes: 263
From: Southern California
The first thing I notice when I'm due for a Clutch Adjustment is that it becomes noticably harder to find Neutral when the bike is fully warmed up at a stop. By that I mean that the pressure that it takes on the Shift Lever to shift out of 1st or 2nd into Neutral causes one to overshoot the Neutral position into 2nd, if you're in 1st, or into 1st when you're in 2nd.
BTW, the adjustment required is at the Clutch Pack itself. You need to completely back off on the Clutch Cable and then make the Adjustment at the Clutch Pack itself, by removing the Derby Cover to gain access to the Adjustment Screw and Lock Nut. Then readjust the Clutch Cable after the adjustment at the Clutch Pack is correct.. These "Adjustments" should be done with the bike at room temperature (6 hours without running). Also be sure that you are running Primary Oil that is the correct Weight and that is specifically (it will say so on the label) designated as Motorcycle Oil.
BTW, the adjustment required is at the Clutch Pack itself. You need to completely back off on the Clutch Cable and then make the Adjustment at the Clutch Pack itself, by removing the Derby Cover to gain access to the Adjustment Screw and Lock Nut. Then readjust the Clutch Cable after the adjustment at the Clutch Pack is correct.. These "Adjustments" should be done with the bike at room temperature (6 hours without running). Also be sure that you are running Primary Oil that is the correct Weight and that is specifically (it will say so on the label) designated as Motorcycle Oil.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Did U do the cable adjustment pre and after the clutch pac adjustment per book??
Mine also sometimes jumps a little when cold.. but I don't notice it if it does after warning up.
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Mine also sometimes jumps a little when cold.. but I don't notice it if it does after warning up.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
Okay, I did everything everyone suggested here, following the shop manual also. I did this several times to make sure all results were the same. I got rid of the gear grinding, but the same loud clunk I had before, going into first, is still there. Others on the forum have suggested that is part of the beast, and something to live with. I can't accept that, there has to be a way to at least minimize the sound. I am hoping that once I ride it, with the Drag Specialties 85-140, I dropped in, at least alleviates the problem. If not, I will go next with the Redline Shockproof. Thanks all.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,165
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From: Acworth
1 more thing not mention so far - Pay attention not to over fill your primary with lube. This will cause the cluych to drag as if its not fully disengaged. Bike level, lube up to the bottom of the clutch basket, no higher. You manuel wll show this , not real clear but you get the correct idea.
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From: New Braunfels, Texas
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Club Member
Joined: May 2007
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From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
the clunk will be there no matter what Oils U use..
some will help a little on the clunk when shifting after she warms up.
I've tried several Weights of oil and IMO for our range of temps here in IND.. I have found that the 75-90 Syn GL in the tranny and 20-50 Syn in the primary does the best overall. I like Mobil -1 but IMO any good Syn oil would prob work great.
I tried some 85-140 but its was tooo heavy on cooler days, it took about 10 minutes of riding before she shifted right, really took a lot of pressure to shift. IMO if it take that amount of time to start flowing right, then I don't think it'd lube the bearings as much as some lighter weight oil would. just me..
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some will help a little on the clunk when shifting after she warms up.
I've tried several Weights of oil and IMO for our range of temps here in IND.. I have found that the 75-90 Syn GL in the tranny and 20-50 Syn in the primary does the best overall. I like Mobil -1 but IMO any good Syn oil would prob work great.
I tried some 85-140 but its was tooo heavy on cooler days, it took about 10 minutes of riding before she shifted right, really took a lot of pressure to shift. IMO if it take that amount of time to start flowing right, then I don't think it'd lube the bearings as much as some lighter weight oil would. just me..
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