Ok, I am starting this thread to kind of document this makeover. I am doing this to both document the progress and to help anyone else doing something similar because some parts, as we all know, do not work well together. I will update this with pics once I get on a computer, I am posting this from my phone.
Parts list-
Shadetree rear fender conversion
Shadetree new style frame/battery cover
Danny grey seat pan (sent it back in exchange for struts)
Shadetree struts (will most likely not use these)
Kuryakyn black p-clamps (I think the P/N is 4023)
Road 6 radius side plate mount
Biltwell model B tail light
Harley black leather solo seat
Install kit for seat (this seat is the one that uses scissor springs)

I am going to attach pics to this post of loosely how the bike looked when I started this. It is going to be a pretty slow process. The service manager at the dealership I work at (sales) was cool enough to allow me to put the bike on a lift table in our upstairs storage room and do the work there. I am getting it done about an hour or so a day before we open. The good thing is, I have some really good techs there to help me out as needed. Since the pics were taken, I had changed the A/C cover, derby cover (Story808's handy work) and a timing cover from azece.com. Also, I changed up the factory striping and tank badges to red and grey on the stripes and got rid of the imitation gold color in the HD script on the tanks by filling it in with flat black and re-outlining in red.

The end result of this make over will be a chopped rigid style fender, side plate, and a repaint so I can stripe it myself later on. I will probably stick with either red and a "dirty whitewall" or red and grey. I was going to go with straight up black denim on the paint, but I am waiting on test panels from our painter. He is going to spray up some flat metallic blacks. A few panels with varying levels of metallic. He will be using crushed glass in the intermediate clear on top of a black base, then finishing it off with the same PPG matte clear used on lambos. He is going to get rid of the seam in the tank and finish the tank off with some 1959 panhead badges.

 

Sorry I cant help with your questions but im loking forward to watching this build

 

Some things I knew I was going to encounter.....
OK, I have always used Fuelmoto for tuning products and usually complete stage 1 set ups. When I got the Crossbones, I opted to go with the FM A/C, Bassani Road Rage, and PC-V. I later also added TW 555s and an updated map from FM. What does this have to do with the build? Here it goes. When I got the exhaust, Bassani sent a pre-06 design. It didn't have O2 bungs. I was planning to run a PC-V and knew I would be bypassing the O2 sensors, so I wasn't concerned. I also went with a Badlander seat, so I had the PC-V installed as it would be on any other softail, on the battery.
Shadetree has redesigned their battery cover to allow the ECM to go under the seat. Previously, their kit required the ECM to go behind the oil tank. Kyle at Shadetree said this was due to a change in some of the under seat set up on the '11 models. He still says it is a cleaner install to put the ECM behind the oil tank, but I think I am going to keep it under the seat because in my head it will be more protected from the elements. Kyle said that I would be able to get the PC-V and ECM to work with the kit, but I want to reduce any possibilities of pinching or binding wiring. This may be an unfounded concern, but I am paranoid sometimes.
The answer to all of this is from Dynojet. They are now allowing Powervision users to get a tuning license to tune an additional bike with the PV. I use the PV on my FLTRX and will end up using it on my Crossbones as well. I ordered a set of weld in O2 sensor bungs from Fuelmoto since I have to put the O2 sensors back on the bike. This will give me the excuse to re-wrap my exhaust. I will stick with the DEI titanium wrap.
I was also wargaming my rear lighting. As I mentioned, I was using the Road 6 customs mount and Biltwell model B tail light. That light isn't much bigger than a stock turn signal. I had ordered the Shadetree struts, with the intention of mounting the signals to them and keeping my run turn brake controller in place. Another snag....can't use the struts with a plate mount on the axel. Shadetree sent me an adapter to put the plate on the passenger peg mounts. But....I want to keep my swingarm bag. After searching on here, I found another member had used the Kuryakyn P-clamps to put the signals on the swingarm. Big thanks to Hooah09!!
I was running a HD swingarm bag and didn't think I was going to be able to get the signals on the swing arm due to the width of the bag, so I started looking at options for putting them on the frame where the stock struts mount. A customer at out dealer has since given me a garage leathers bag (he ended up buying a bike at a dealer in Florida and felt bad because we worked a bunch on a deal with him, he is a cool dude and it didn't bother me at all, but he gave me this bag from his old crossbones....thanks Marty!) The gargae leathers bag looks a bit more narrow, so hopefully I will be able to squeeze in the signals. I think I will end up mounting it like WARG did.
Here are a few pics of initial tear down of the stock rear fender and mock up of the new pieces.

 

In the pics above, I had not put on the fender mounts, so it is just sitting on the tire. It will actually sit further down in the swing arm. The end of the fender will be directly above the axle. A few snags in the mock up. The battery cover is designed to work with the crossbones' stock spring perches. The seat kit I am running is a bit different. I will have to open up the holes a bit to get the cover to sit all the way down. Also the top mount would not tighten down enough to actually clamp down of the cross tube it mounts to. I got it shored up with a section of old tire tube. Kyle is sending me a new mount with cleaner welds, but said I could go ahead and use the one I have to mark and drill the holes in the fender. I also started to take off the black axle caps so I could remove the front fender and mount the side plate....and on the last cap, the high quality HD set screw stripped out, so now I have to jam a torx bit up there to get it off. Our techs said this happens so much, they had our parts dept stock up on replacement set screws....

 

Cant wait to see the finished product. You need to find a good striper to finish it of. lol.

 

I agree, but I will have to do!!!

 

Well I''m sure if you ask around here you can find someone. HD does sell those lick and stick ones and you could just clear over them and call em yours. I wont tell....

 

Brett,
I put my signals where the strut bolts went. I used the same signal relocation as my fronts from jp. Powdered them black.
These are the signals http://hightechspeed.com/products/XARC/index.asp wicked small but the brightest I've seen. I would of used the x-arcs on the front had I known about them. They are run, signal, brake light.

 

I like what you're doing. Gonna be watching this thread.

 

Dk custom, I may be getting some finishing touches from you guys

Milty, can you email me some close up shots of the mounting? Brett.r.paul@gmail.com
The holes don't go all the way through so I am guessing your wires exit from the bottom if the lights