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I would guess the problem is with the install of the new turns. Disconnect them totally and see if everything goes back to normal.
You have to go back to square one, to the point where you were before the problem cropped up. At least that's how I go about troubleshooting shorts with AC circuits.
Electrical gremlins can be hair pulling pita's whether AC or DC.
Yea, I am starting to see how big of a pain electrical things can be.
My problem now is everything is working (not blowing fuses)...although my left blinker still doesnt work. I am going to pull off my tail light and the blinker to see if maybe its just not plugged in good or something simple like that. From a quick inspection, I dont see any exposed wires from the blinker to the connection in the tailight so I am stumped so far.
Electrical problems suck. Intermittent ones are worse. Don't forget to check whatever you did to remove the fronts to make sure something hasn't happened there as well.
Electrical problems suck. Intermittent ones are worse. Don't forget to check whatever you did to remove the fronts to make sure something hasn't happened there as well.
All I did was unplug the fronts from the harness under the tank. Which reminds me, I need to fill that with some elctrical grease. But as of now, nothing is even plugged into it.
I didn't remove the tank when I unplugged it, I just slid it back a little and unplugged it and pulled the fronts off. Should have have followed that whole wire back under the seat and unplugged it further back? Right now, the plug is still under the tank with nothing plugged into it.
Last edited by ghoticov; Jan 11, 2013 at 12:14 PM.
Honestly, I don't know where all that stuff goes, 'cause I haven't messed with mine, I'm just saying that you weren't having problems til you did this work, so if it was me, I'd be double checking everything involved. Not trying to be critical, mind you.
Honestly, I don't know where all that stuff goes, 'cause I haven't messed with mine, I'm just saying that you weren't having problems til you did this work, so if it was me, I'd be double checking everything involved. Not trying to be critical, mind you.
I agree with machineistmate. Probably one of the best test lights you can have for finding faults is this one. It not only tests for hots but also test for a faulty ground. Re trace your steps. http://www.napaprolink.com/Detail.as...491_0006398653
Go about the entire process methodically. When you unplugged the front turns under the tank, you say that you slid the tank back. You may have torn the jacket away from the wire when you did this, if so, that could be your fault and depending how the circuitry is done, it could rob all the power not allowing the left rear turn signal to operate. Remove the load equalizer and the new rear turn signals, plug it back up the way it was originally, and see if it still blows fuses. Plug them back in one thing at a time, this should allow you to determine which is causing the issue. There is nothing like a good electrical tester. The one listed above that will allow you to follow both the positive and negative paths would be beneficial. There has to be a massive amperage draw causing the main fuse to blow, otherwise it should only blow the fuse going to the head lights, dash lights or some other circuitry fuse. I'm like most of the responses above, if it was working before the mods, it should work after the mods, providing the mods were not defective. Lots of luck!
Go about the entire process methodically. When you unplugged the front turns under the tank, you say that you slid the tank back. You may have torn the jacket away from the wire when you did this, if so, that could be your fault and depending how the circuitry is done, it could rob all the power not allowing the left rear turn signal to operate. Remove the load equalizer and the new rear turn signals, plug it back up the way it was originally, and see if it still blows fuses. Plug them back in one thing at a time, this should allow you to determine which is causing the issue. There is nothing like a good electrical tester. The one listed above that will allow you to follow both the positive and negative paths would be beneficial. There has to be a massive amperage draw causing the main fuse to blow, otherwise it should only blow the fuse going to the head lights, dash lights or some other circuitry fuse. I'm like most of the responses above, if it was working before the mods, it should work after the mods, providing the mods were not defective. Lots of luck!
I can't plug everything back up the way it was because I cut the wires off the old turn signal to splice the new ones. I am about to write up details in a post below about where I am now. That is for all the sugesstions!
Went to the bik this morning, turned it on and it would crank...no blown fuse. I have the load equalizer on and the left turn signal doesn't work. I turned it off. I turned it back on (didn't crank it, just turned the igntion on) and it looked like it would crank again. I clicked the right turn signal, worked great (no rapid flashing or security key light on). Turn that off, then turned on the left one.... nothing and the security key came on and then heard a light pop....which I know now is the fuse blowing. Turned it off, then back on and no dash light (where the mileage is) and it wouldn't start...nothing from the starter.
Took the seat off and yep, blown fuse. I thought maybe it might be the load equalizer or something (even though that doesn't explain why my left blinker won't work). I took off the load equalizer, replaced the fuse and turned her on. It would crank .... right blinker works but flashes fast after a few seconds and the security light comes on. The left blinker still doesnt work and security light comes on. Turned off off, then back on several times and no blown fuses even after using the left and right turn signals.
So it sounds like to me there is a problem with the left turn signal not working in relation to trying to use the load equalizer. Without the LE, I don't blow fuses...even though the left signal doesn't work. Does the LE maybe send too much juice because of the issue with the left signal not working which cause a fuse to blow. Its the main matter fuse so I would think it is some thing I need to figure out (and if I want rear turn signals and to get rid of the security light).
Thoughts? Remember I am a complete newb, especially with electrical stuff so when it comes to using testing equipment and what all that means, its over my head. Lol
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