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Take a look at the wiring to your new blinkers on the back and your equalizer. You may have something come loose or routed slightly off kilter and creating an intermittent short. Just an idea.
Take a look at the wiring to your new blinkers on the back and your equalizer. You may have something come loose or routed slightly off kilter and creating an intermittent short. Just an idea.
I did notice when I took off the blinker that isn't working (yesterday) that the wires are pretty tight against the fender strut. Its hard to explain but the way they go on the strut, the wires that go into the bulb part are squished against the back of the fender strut. But isn't the fender strut plastic? I can't imagine that would cause it short out and blow a battery fuse.
Other thing is they worked for a few days...both blinkers. But there is definitely up because my security key stays on also. And the load equalizer should have taken care if that. I don't even know if the load equalizer is working. I do have it plugged up right but could it have gone bad? I've only had it for a few months and only ridden maybe 10 times.
From what I've read, you must have a wire from your led/lead equalizer or signal exposed and touching something to cause the fuse blow. Check the wiring.
From what I've read, you must have a wire from your led/lead equalizer or signal exposed and touching something to cause the fuse blow. Check the wiring.
Yea, I'm gonna check that in the morning.
What doesn't make sense though is that one of my turn signals (the left one) doesn't work and even with the load equalizer, the security key stays lit.
Ok, so before you changed the turns and added the equalizer, there was no problem?
If so, I would totally disconnect both turns (that you changed) and the equalizer from the wiring system. If it stops blowing fuses, there ya have it, its in the turn signal wiring.
My 07 orginal batt bit the dust last spring... Almost 5yrs to the day..
Same thing, lights came on but not enough juice to start her.. I charged mine for a day on trickle charge and it started once,, but next day she was flat again..
If U still have the org batt in her its TIME to replace it anyway. Most in here get from 4-6 yrs on the org..
I went with a new AGM from Battery+, made by Decka, who makes the HD batt's mostly cause they are 2 blocks from home instead of going 110 miles to dealer and back. Plus they're about $30 less.. Yet to see how long it will last...
If it popped the breaker when you turned the blinker on I would check the blinkers that you install you got something rubbed thru going to ground. Just my two cents. Good luck.
Ok, so before you changed the turns and added the equalizer, there was no problem?
If so, I would totally disconnect both turns (that you changed) and the equalizer from the wiring system. If it stops blowing fuses, there ya have it, its in the turn signal wiring.
Well, that was what happened but not now....thats why this is so confusing. Lol
Now, the bike starts and is not popping fuses... and that's with the new turn signals and load equalizer on the bike. But now, the left blinker doesn't work and when I use the right one, the security key comes on but the blinker doesn't blink fast.
Before I put on the load equalizer or new blinkers everything was fine, my stock blinkers just blinked fast because I removed the front ones.
After I installed the new blinkers the right blinker was only working but when I used it the security key would come on and the blinker would blink fast.
So I do think its something to do with either the new turn signals and/or the load equalizer.
But can a wire ground out on plastic? I have a feeling this is going to be a pain to try and figure out. Lol
I would guess the problem is with the install of the new turns. Disconnect them totally and see if everything goes back to normal.
You have to go back to square one, to the point where you were before the problem cropped up. At least that's how I go about troubleshooting shorts with AC circuits.
Electrical gremlins can be hair pulling pita's whether AC or DC.
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