Tracking to left - Why???
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 594
Likes: 4
From: Texas
Thanks for all the feedback.
I like the idea of measuring from the Front Axle to the back but then there is the issue of getting the front axle perpendicular to the frame (assuming the frame is straight) or ensuring it is "centered".
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll take a look at where the belt is running as well as the tire "run-out".
The bike only has 12,000 miles on it and I maintain it scrupulously, torquing everything as the Service Manual indicates. The bike has probably had this "drift" since I got it 18 months ago and I just did not notice it until after I had the rear tire changed out at 10,000 miles. ( I got some decent mileage out of that first tire.)
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
I like the idea of measuring from the Front Axle to the back but then there is the issue of getting the front axle perpendicular to the frame (assuming the frame is straight) or ensuring it is "centered".
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll take a look at where the belt is running as well as the tire "run-out".
The bike only has 12,000 miles on it and I maintain it scrupulously, torquing everything as the Service Manual indicates. The bike has probably had this "drift" since I got it 18 months ago and I just did not notice it until after I had the rear tire changed out at 10,000 miles. ( I got some decent mileage out of that first tire.)
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 594
Likes: 4
From: Texas
Oh and my wallet is on the right but since there is never anything in it ( got drained personalizing the bike), I think maybe a couple of bricks in the Right Side saddle bag will work just as well. LOL
D
D
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
Thanks for all the feedback.
I like the idea of measuring from the Front Axle to the back but then there is the issue of getting the front axle perpendicular to the frame (assuming the frame is straight) or ensuring it is "centered".
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll take a look at where the belt is running as well as the tire "run-out".
The bike only has 12,000 miles on it and I maintain it scrupulously, torquing everything as the Service Manual indicates. The bike has probably had this "drift" since I got it 18 months ago and I just did not notice it until after I had the rear tire changed out at 10,000 miles. ( I got some decent mileage out of that first tire.)
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
I like the idea of measuring from the Front Axle to the back but then there is the issue of getting the front axle perpendicular to the frame (assuming the frame is straight) or ensuring it is "centered".
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll take a look at where the belt is running as well as the tire "run-out".
The bike only has 12,000 miles on it and I maintain it scrupulously, torquing everything as the Service Manual indicates. The bike has probably had this "drift" since I got it 18 months ago and I just did not notice it until after I had the rear tire changed out at 10,000 miles. ( I got some decent mileage out of that first tire.)
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
You don't need to measure from the front axle to the back. Too many obstructions. You measure from the swing arm pivot to the axle (divots in both).
OR, you clamp two straight edges to the rear wheel just below the rear sprocket using duct tape and setting them on blocks at the front and rear of the bike. When you measure the front wheel you measure at the front of the rim and the rear of the rim. If you can't get the distances to be uniform on both sides but they are equal at the front and back on each side that just means you have an offset between the two wheel centerlines courtesy of HD. If you can't get one side or the other (doesn't matter) to be equal at the front and rear of the rim, your rear wheel is out of alignment.
You can check and make sure that your front fork tubes and the frame are square by using a magentic inclinometer on the front and rear rotors. The angle should be the same (doesn't have to be 90 but you have to have the inclinometer straight up and down). Inclinometers are cheap at Harbor Freight or Northern or whatever... If the angle is not the same, then something is bent.
C#
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 594
Likes: 4
From: Texas
I just finished using the "string method" to check alignment and I'm good. I do have an "offset" between the two wheel centerlines courtesy of HD as you mentioned. It's about 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch but the wheels are "in alignment" (gap on front and rear edge of Front tire is the same on each side but the string was further away on the right side).
I also found that one of my throttle cables (changed them out when I put the Cruise Control on because I wanted the "disconnect" switch) is about 2 inches too long and puts a small amount of pressure on the fork on the right side which pushes the front wheel into a left turn (w/o banking of course). That could be part of it.
I also checked the fall-off and it's good however that is how I found the clutch cable pressure. It took more distance to get the fall-off on right side than it did the left due to the cable pressure.
Looks like I'm just going to have to ignore it and ride the hell out of it!
D
I also found that one of my throttle cables (changed them out when I put the Cruise Control on because I wanted the "disconnect" switch) is about 2 inches too long and puts a small amount of pressure on the fork on the right side which pushes the front wheel into a left turn (w/o banking of course). That could be part of it.
I also checked the fall-off and it's good however that is how I found the clutch cable pressure. It took more distance to get the fall-off on right side than it did the left due to the cable pressure.
Looks like I'm just going to have to ignore it and ride the hell out of it!
D
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 594
Likes: 4
From: Texas
Just a comment - I do not have any "divots" in my swing arm bolt. It's a smooth head on the right and just a small depression on the left. I used that measurement the first time and then confirmed it with the string.
AIM????? American Ironhorse Magazine???
Thanks, D
AIM????? American Ironhorse Magazine???
Thanks, D
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 594
Likes: 4
From: Texas
For those that may be interested, here's a link to a decent adjustment procedure.
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/downl...e%20Simple.pdf
Also not that it references an "offset" in most modern day Harley's of 8 to 13 mm (3/16 to 1/2 inch). Seems my '06 Softail is just "average".........LOL
http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/downl...e%20Simple.pdf
Also not that it references an "offset" in most modern day Harley's of 8 to 13 mm (3/16 to 1/2 inch). Seems my '06 Softail is just "average".........LOL
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,729
Likes: 7
From: Republic of Texas
Thanks for all the feedback.
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
I thought about the fall-away and checked my steering nut torque. It was loose but tightening it to the recommendation does not seem to have much effect.
I'll do some more tweaking as time permits since this is not a really big deal - I don't drive much "hands free" in Texas....................
Safe Riding, D
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
Yeah... some models don't have the divots. Good ol' HD...
There are tools made that use the divots that make this an easy check if you have the divots, that is. The tool is cheap, too.
I have some HD round covers on my nut and pivot bolt head. I just use some fishing line with a looped end and a lightly squeezed lead weight that slides on the fishing line. Line that doesn't stretch is important when you're doing this by yourself.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
Depending on the style of triple tree you, if you have the standard triple tree that has the large nut on top then torquing that nut has nothing to do with the "fall-away". It's the preload adjuster between the top tree and the steering neck that adjusts the "fall-away" and there is not torque value for it. You just adjust it until you get the proper amount of "fall-away".
On my bike the torque was originally 35 ft. lbs. I think... but a Service Bulletin came out that said on certain models and model years if the customer complained about a clunk HD was to replace the washer under the nut and torque the nut to 75 ft. lbs. I think it was. I fixed my clunk but the handling is different. The SB warned about that 'feature' also. It is slightly less responsive but a forward foot controls bike isn't built for handling anyway.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,528
Likes: 6,407
From: Honah Lee
On a Softail, you align rear wheel to the pivot arm but from what I see, the milled flats on the stop nut are true to the pivot arm, the distance should be measured there. Since the engine is fixed and there is a lot of allowance in the tolerance it's more important that the alignment is for the belt to align and track so it does not rub hard against either side of rear drive pulley. Do not have my manual but my 04 says should be inward side. This is totally different then the big tour bikes and Dyna. Since it's the rear tire and you know inflation is correct and if the belt looks centered in rear pulley it is correct alignment. The bottom line with a Softail is the handle bars along with body lean controls were it goes. Bet if you pick another road on a calm day and let go of bars just slightly and if it tends to pull and you adjust you body ever so slightly it will go straight. Remember a new tire puts you up on a new much narrow edge that gives you a better fill in the turns but wind and body lean tends to be exaggerated till you get use to it.