Won't start and I don't know why.......
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 705
Likes: 8
From: southern IL
A decent voltmeter, wiring schematic and a lot of patience will go far. I'd start by testing the switch (the KISS stuff), then starter wires for voltage when you hit the start button, and work your way back from the starter.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 13
From: Sussex, South of England
12.8V means battery is 100% charged. When on bike and bike charging you can expect to see 14.4 ish volt.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Goldsboro, NC
It's been a while since I wrote about this but I done a few things and had to wait on a couple of parts to get here.
I found after more looking that the main circuit breaker connections were really corroded. It's probably normal but just to be sure I replaced the circuit breaker (because one of the posts broke off while removing the nut). I then removed the green wire from the solenoid, put the battery back in, turned on the ignition and jumped it directly from the battery to the solenoid to see if it would start. It started right up (surprised me actually) but now I'm not sure exactly what's wrong. At this point I believe it's the ignition switch or the turn signal module. I still don't have any reading in the speedo. (no mileage) and the turn signals don't work. The running lights work but I believe they aren't on the starting circuit just the lights, which is why the headlight also works.
I also still have a current draw somewhere because every time I leave the battery in it for very long it takes a couple of hours for the green light on the battery tender to come back on.
I plan to take it to a friend of mine who is a HD mechanic and see what he finds. We're plannning on replacing the switch at this point and see what that gets us.
Any other thoughts about what it might be would be appreciated.
I found after more looking that the main circuit breaker connections were really corroded. It's probably normal but just to be sure I replaced the circuit breaker (because one of the posts broke off while removing the nut). I then removed the green wire from the solenoid, put the battery back in, turned on the ignition and jumped it directly from the battery to the solenoid to see if it would start. It started right up (surprised me actually) but now I'm not sure exactly what's wrong. At this point I believe it's the ignition switch or the turn signal module. I still don't have any reading in the speedo. (no mileage) and the turn signals don't work. The running lights work but I believe they aren't on the starting circuit just the lights, which is why the headlight also works.
I also still have a current draw somewhere because every time I leave the battery in it for very long it takes a couple of hours for the green light on the battery tender to come back on.
I plan to take it to a friend of mine who is a HD mechanic and see what he finds. We're plannning on replacing the switch at this point and see what that gets us.
Any other thoughts about what it might be would be appreciated.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
It's been a while since I wrote about this but I done a few things and had to wait on a couple of parts to get here.
I found after more looking that the main circuit breaker connections were really corroded. It's probably normal but just to be sure I replaced the circuit breaker (because one of the posts broke off while removing the nut). I then removed the green wire from the solenoid, put the battery back in, turned on the ignition and jumped it directly from the battery to the solenoid to see if it would start. It started right up (surprised me actually) but now I'm not sure exactly what's wrong. At this point I believe it's the ignition switch or the turn signal module. I still don't have any reading in the speedo. (no mileage) and the turn signals don't work. The running lights work but I believe they aren't on the starting circuit just the lights, which is why the headlight also works.
I also still have a current draw somewhere because every time I leave the battery in it for very long it takes a couple of hours for the green light on the battery tender to come back on.
I plan to take it to a friend of mine who is a HD mechanic and see what he finds. We're plannning on replacing the switch at this point and see what that gets us.
Any other thoughts about what it might be would be appreciated.
I found after more looking that the main circuit breaker connections were really corroded. It's probably normal but just to be sure I replaced the circuit breaker (because one of the posts broke off while removing the nut). I then removed the green wire from the solenoid, put the battery back in, turned on the ignition and jumped it directly from the battery to the solenoid to see if it would start. It started right up (surprised me actually) but now I'm not sure exactly what's wrong. At this point I believe it's the ignition switch or the turn signal module. I still don't have any reading in the speedo. (no mileage) and the turn signals don't work. The running lights work but I believe they aren't on the starting circuit just the lights, which is why the headlight also works.
I also still have a current draw somewhere because every time I leave the battery in it for very long it takes a couple of hours for the green light on the battery tender to come back on.
I plan to take it to a friend of mine who is a HD mechanic and see what he finds. We're plannning on replacing the switch at this point and see what that gets us.
Any other thoughts about what it might be would be appreciated.
C#
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Goldsboro, NC
After more thinking and checking I did a test with the multimeter running from the disconnected negative battery cable to the frame ground. It shows 7.3 amps with everything connected however when I unhooked both the voltage regulator wire and the ignition switch wire, it went to zero. So I put the ignition switch wire back on and still got zero. I then took that off and put only the voltage regulator wire back on and it showed 7.3 amps again. Does this mean the voltage regulator is bad?
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,395
Likes: 153
From: Utah
After more thinking and checking I did a test with the multimeter running from the disconnected negative battery cable to the frame ground. It shows 7.3 amps with everything connected however when I unhooked both the voltage regulator wire and the ignition switch wire, it went to zero. So I put the ignition switch wire back on and still got zero. I then took that off and put only the voltage regulator wire back on and it showed 7.3 amps again. Does this mean the voltage regulator is bad?
Good luck.
C#
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Goldsboro, NC
Thanks for the info. That's the test I did and it showed 7.3 amps. I have someone who is going to come check it this weekend. The electrical diagnostic manual is the one I don't own, but he has one so we'll see. I think it's the voltage regulator based on what I've done so far.