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Won't start and I don't know why.......

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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #21  
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Check the crankshaft position sensor, if you have a manual it's very easy to find, my bike was doing same thing and this fixed it.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #22  
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I'll check it but since it will start if I put a "hot" wire directly to the solenoid, I'm not sure that's the problem. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #23  
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Have you tried pulling off the ignition switch and jumping the 3 wires together?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 08:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by richmac64
Thanks for the info. That's the test I did and it showed 7.3 amps. I have someone who is going to come check it this weekend. The electrical diagnostic manual is the one I don't own, but he has one so we'll see. I think it's the voltage regulator based on what I've done so far.
You said you went between the disconnected battery cable and the frame ground... I didn't realize that you meant that it was still connected to the battery. Sorry.

As for voltage regulators, the only check for them is when you are producing voltage (as I see it in the manual). I have no idea what is being passed through or what is connected to the VR when the ignition is off. I guess you would have to look at the wiring diagram. I did note that it said to disconnect the VR from the stator wire... as far as I can tell the only thing that the VR is hooked up to is ground, the stator, and the battery ground. So... if you disconnect it from the Stator, then you won't have any thing that could provide any amps to anything involved. The VR doesn't hold voltage and if it isn't connected to the Stator, there is nothing else that it can get power from. The stator isn't connected to anything, either. That would mean that you have something hot hooked up to ground somewhere... and it is being passed through the ground any place you hook up to it... and the VR is just innocently passing that through to your multimeter through the ground.

C#
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 07:47 AM
  #25  
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@cwsharp: I probably didn't explain what I did very well. I unhooked the negative battery cable from the battery and then put the multimeter between them. When I do this I get 7.3 amps, but if I remove the voltage regulator wire from the circuit breaker, it goes to zero.
Hopefully I can get this figured out this weekend, I have a friend who is a certified HD mechanic coming over to check it out. If it's a wire grounding out somewhere it will probably be a nightmare to find it. But knowing what circuit it's going through might help.
I did unplug the voltage regulator and checked the resistance in the stator by putting the multimeter across the terminals which gave me 0.6 ohms.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:01 AM
  #26  
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In case you missed my question, did you pull off the ignition switch from the dash and take the wires off the back side of the switch to jump them together?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cwsharp
. Jumping the bike at the same time that you have a known good battery installed using your car battery can help eliminate batteries from the equation as long as your bike's cables are clean and firmly attached.
C#
I'd advise against having a car running while jumping it, car battery's systems usually have a lot more amps, and you don't want to fry anything
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 10:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dusty2221
In case you missed my question, did you pull off the ignition switch from the dash and take the wires off the back side of the switch to jump them together?
Yes, I did this originally although the ignition switch has been replaced once because it was getting loose and making it tricky to start. When I turn on the ignition switch the lights come on and when I turn the handlebar switch to "run" I can hear the fuel pump working. The bike does run if I jump from the battery directly to the starter solenoid (with the green wire unplugged).

The battery has been replaced so that is not an issue.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #29  
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It's fixed!! After all the guess work and various checking of parts and fuses, we finally found the problem. One of the wires in the fuse block that runs from the battery fuse to the TSM was corroded and finally broke off while we were checking everything. The only way we were able to find it was to remove the fuse block from the bracket and turn it over to see the underside. As we turned it over the broken wire was exposed and the end of it was green with corrosion. We took one of the terminal ends from the spare fuse area, soldered it in, covered that with shrink tubing and put it all back together. As soon as the battery was connected the speedo. came back on, the turn signals worked and she fired right up using the switch. We ran the diagnostics and everything is fine now.

I appreciate all the help and direction during this and I'm glad it's fixed. Hopefully this will help someone in the future who might have something like this happen to them.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 01:24 PM
  #30  
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Glad you got it fixed. Electrical problems are never fun!
 
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