2003 Deuce with factory stock wheel and 160/70/17 tire.
I have seen kits that offer a wheel + 180 tire for $2,000 that just bolt on with no modifications.
Questions..(1) How big of a tire can I put on the factory wheel? (2) how big of a wheel/tire can i fit on this bike using stock swingarm and fender?

 

If you want to just put a 180 on it, buy the Dunlop SE 180. It fits without ANY modifications. No kit needed. HogPro sells a 200 kit with new 18x5.5 wheel,pulley and narrow belt that will work with the stock fender/swingarm.

 

160 is about it, if you look you'll see how close the tire is to the belt already, you can do two things to go 180, order that bolt on kit or switch to a chain drive. But for that money you should just do a heartland kit and go wider. Difference between 160-180 is less then an inch

 

I have been riding with the Dunlop 180 on my bike for about 8 years and have no issues. Yes, it is tight but does not rub the belt.

 

Stock fender and swingarm. 17x6 2007 Softail custom solid wheel. 200mm tire. No chain drive.

 

i have a Michelin Scorcher 180. no mods fits without issues.

 

Thanks for the answers everyone.
Villiage Idiot...(Stock fender and swingarm. 17x6 2007 Softail custom solid wheel. 200mm tire. No chain drive) what changes did you have to make, if any, to fit this wheel/tire combo?

 

I have a thinner OEM pulley and belt. That's not a must have, but I felt more comfortable with the extra clearance.

The mounting tab on the brake caliper needed shaving down to clear the wheel and valve stem. It's an unecessarily huge block of aluminum to start with. It doesn't look like it compromises the integrity of the caliper assembly.

The caliper mount point on the swing arm had to be shaved to clear the wheel. It's the bottom of the portion closer to the front of the bike. The caliper mounts o the section closer to the rear of the bike and is no where even close to the portion that was shaved.

The liner that covers the electronics needed the edges shaved to make room for the wheel and tire. It's plastic. Easy sauce.

I cut off the rear license plate assembly and trimmed it so none of the plastic from the mount stuck below the fender and replaced it. It holds all the wires for the tail light and signals. I don't believe this mod is required, but it cleans the rear up nicely and I added a vertical license plate mount. WV has vertical license plates.

The inner fender struts needed the bottoms shaved...kind of. They're wire runs that bulge out about 1/4"-1/2" and contain no wires. I cut these down and smoothed them out. This may not be needed if you're staying stock height. I'd reccomend doing it anyway. The only rubbing I experience of metal on rubber was after a 2" drop with stock shock adjustments and bottoming out. There's less than 1/8" of the left side of the tire that was rubbing on something in the fender. It never did that at stock height so I'm going to adjust the shocks and maybe put the 1.5" drop collars on.

Oh, and new spacers. A 2006 wheel will work but it's about 1/2" difference in the hub size. The best thing for spacers is to get everything mocked up and figure out what size you need. It runs straight and rides awesome. I did all the work on mine except for putting on the new pulley and belt. I really need a service manual.

 

Thanks for the info. I saw a chrome wheel on Ebay and was wondering what kind of mods I would need to do.

 

You could go with a 5.5" and probably not have to do the cutting...or as much cutting.... Pretty much any wider than stock and you'll have to trim the plastic mud guard/ electronics shroud and the shape of the solid wheels necessitates trimming the caliper since it slopes in and isn't flat across like a spoke wheel.