Hey everyone. I'm looking at different ways to lower the rear on my slim and I'm curious to see if I missed any options. I don't really want to compromise ride quality even though I know lowering the bike will do so; I came from a strutted sportster so nothing can be THAT bad. I also don't want to spend the money on a shotgun shock since I haven't paid the bike off in full yet. So are there any other options than the collars that limit the shocks movement and quality air suspension?

 

DeadCreek Cycles lowering kit works great. I have the 2" drop on my bike and if anything it improved the ride. I also ride two up with no issues at all.

I love it.

http://www.deadcreekcycles.com/No-Sh...Kit_p_704.html

 

Yep.

I got mine from the manufacturer though. Same kit

Can't go wrong either way...

http://www.softailloweringkit.com/

Awesome product...easy to install...GREAT customer service.


Here's a link to my install pics etc...

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softai...s-finally.html

 

I was just on your thread FBB. You mentioned a few times how the ride was more stiff. Did you adjust your shock when you installed the collar? Also, have you gotten used to the harsher ride?

 

Well...after several months of using the kit...it's not the ride that's harsher or stiff. There's just less travel before hitting the bump stops. I'd love to drop it the full 2"...but then i'd really be bangin the bump stop. 1.5 is good enough for me.

I did not adjust the shock...I'm not heavy so the original setting is fine for me.

I wouldn't go back to stock...that's for sure. I love this kit. Especially for the affordable price. It doesn't cost you your left testy like the Shotgun Shock kit...

Whatever you do...don't buy the cheap $20.00 bolts you see on eBay or elsewhere. They are a bitch to install from what I understand.

 

Whatever I do I won't be cheap about it. My bike is too nice and already has some quality parts on it to cheap out on something as important as suspension! I'd really like the shotgun but I just really can't justify the cost at the moment.

 

Shotgun all the way, pricey (even more so in the UK) but it was worth every penny. I'm really pleased

 

With the bolts you will get a stiffer ride. It's best to increase preload to prevent bottoming out as often. I'd much rather have a less plush ride over slamming that bump stop on every bump.

Progressive 422's. little pricey for what they are, and haven't heard too many great things about them. Certainly not a lot of folks running them in here, usually see bolts or shotgun.

Shotgun. Lots of $$$$, gets you the cool factor at the bar, and it's a more comfortable ride. You'll still have a less comfortable ride with it lowered. A 2" lowered bike only leaves about 2" of shock travel before the bump stops. I'm sure even air ride bottoms out occasionally.

 

Save your money for a Shotgun system. Rebound can be adjusted instead of just lowering the rear.
Like twisty roads? Raise the rear 1" above stock height for more ground clearance.
All done on the fly as road/load conditions change.

 

If you decide to go with a kit like the one we carry that uses the lowering collars, you can adjust the preload to help compensate for the change in the suspension travel. If you only use the 1.5" collars, you likely won't notice much of a difference, but the kit includes both 1.5" and 2" drop collars which are easily swappable so you can try both and see which works best for you. If you decide to go with ours, we are offering a forum member only discount on our site good on anything. Just enter promo code: hd5bucks when yoi check out.

As for adjusting the preload, you can find some instructions in the service manual (and owners manual) on how to adjust the shocks, but they are not the greatest instructions. So here are a few tips:

1) Jack the bike up so the rear tire is off the ground. Don't forget to strap the bike down. Try to position the jack so you have as clear access to the front of the shock canister as possible (the rnd of the shock towards the front of the bike).
2) Loosen the jam nut that is against the adjuster plate (the one with all the holes around it) all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
3) With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B or an aftermarket spanner wrench that fits) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing/adjuster plate moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut. (Note: if you know the adjustment has never been changed, you can turn the adjuster plate clockwise until it bottoms out at the lightest setting (probably less than one turn) and then calculate your adjustment from that point).
4) Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duct tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.

Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.

5) With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6) While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
6) Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.

The general rule of thumb for adjustment is:
4 turns for load less than 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs - 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs - 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs - 375lbs
0 turns for greater than 375 lbs

Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns