Pain in the ass mods...
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,272
Likes: 10
From: Orange VA
RE: Pain in the *** mods...
Internal handlebar wiring:
I'm getting ready to wire my bars. I'll let you know how that goes. I'm still naive I guess in thinking its not going to be that difficult.
Bleeding brakes:
Initially I was worried about bleeding the front brake lines but then I heard about "a" way, tried it, and found it worked really easy. Take the top off the master cylinder, then attach a hose to the bleeder valve and pump fluid up from the caliper. Air naturally rises up and is pushed out of the top until the master starts to fill up. Top it off and you are done.
Shocks and Sideplates:
I guess the hardest for me would be a toss up between the shocks and sideplates(or detach kit). I installed a Burnout Cycles lowering kit. The kit was simple. Getting the shocks off and back on again was not. The kit uses a 15/16 nut. I was lucky and had a socket to fit but no combo wrench for the other side. The other shock mounting bolt is really tough to get to. The manual says you need some special torque adapter from Snap-on which costs $50. I had a combo wrench and a hammer so I used that. Must have been a whole tube of red locktite on those bolts.
I've done three different sets of sideplates and/or detach hardware. First one I tried without taking off the wheel. Not fun. Lots of cussing and cutting up of the hands. Second and third attempts I pulled the wheel and they went fast, minus the wheel dis-***/*** time.
The shocks were the hardest because of the clearance issues and not having the right tools. The sideplates were just a PITA because it’s next to impossible to get them on without pulling the rear wheel or dropping the shocks to let the swingarm fall out of the way. And I already said how much fun that was.
I'm getting ready to wire my bars. I'll let you know how that goes. I'm still naive I guess in thinking its not going to be that difficult.
Bleeding brakes:
Initially I was worried about bleeding the front brake lines but then I heard about "a" way, tried it, and found it worked really easy. Take the top off the master cylinder, then attach a hose to the bleeder valve and pump fluid up from the caliper. Air naturally rises up and is pushed out of the top until the master starts to fill up. Top it off and you are done.
Shocks and Sideplates:
I guess the hardest for me would be a toss up between the shocks and sideplates(or detach kit). I installed a Burnout Cycles lowering kit. The kit was simple. Getting the shocks off and back on again was not. The kit uses a 15/16 nut. I was lucky and had a socket to fit but no combo wrench for the other side. The other shock mounting bolt is really tough to get to. The manual says you need some special torque adapter from Snap-on which costs $50. I had a combo wrench and a hammer so I used that. Must have been a whole tube of red locktite on those bolts.
I've done three different sets of sideplates and/or detach hardware. First one I tried without taking off the wheel. Not fun. Lots of cussing and cutting up of the hands. Second and third attempts I pulled the wheel and they went fast, minus the wheel dis-***/*** time.
The shocks were the hardest because of the clearance issues and not having the right tools. The sideplates were just a PITA because it’s next to impossible to get them on without pulling the rear wheel or dropping the shocks to let the swingarm fall out of the way. And I already said how much fun that was.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Clarks Summit, PA
RE: Pain in the *** mods...
Just wanted to pass this on........I removed my stock HD slip ons today and having read about how hard they are to get off.....after loosining up everything I sprayed wd-40 at the slip on joint, waited twenty minutes and they slid right off!! Amazing. Great stuff that WD.
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 17
From: Albuquerque, NM
RE: Pain in the *** mods...
Where were you with your advice 2 years ago. 
Actually I'm pretty glad I made the decision to go with a carbed model after hearing all the horror storys about changing the tank on an EFI. Whew!
Actually I'm pretty glad I made the decision to go with a carbed model after hearing all the horror storys about changing the tank on an EFI. Whew!
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: So. Cal
RE: Pain in the *** mods...
ORIGINAL: SCJE8
It would have to be my chrome swingarm and the low-profile shocks! Just a real butt buster that took a lot of grunting and groaning and being in places whereman was not designed to be! You get twisted up into positions that are not good for my 53 year old back, and of course, like anything on my HD, it was one of those jobs where I needed a minimum of 3 hands!
But now that I think about it...there was the disaster that started out as a chrome front end swap but quickly changed when the 6mm cap screw that holds the lower fork slider on stripped out! But that's another thread...
I love working on my bike, but some of these nuts and bolts are torqued way too tight! JMHO
Good luck and keep wrenching...
Steve
It would have to be my chrome swingarm and the low-profile shocks! Just a real butt buster that took a lot of grunting and groaning and being in places whereman was not designed to be! You get twisted up into positions that are not good for my 53 year old back, and of course, like anything on my HD, it was one of those jobs where I needed a minimum of 3 hands!
But now that I think about it...there was the disaster that started out as a chrome front end swap but quickly changed when the 6mm cap screw that holds the lower fork slider on stripped out! But that's another thread...
I love working on my bike, but some of these nuts and bolts are torqued way too tight! JMHO
Good luck and keep wrenching...
Steve
2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Stupid TORX bolts!
I'm beginning to question if the factory pays attention to their own torque values.
I was going to change out my worn rear break rotor with a wicked chrome one and actually BROKE my Craftsman Torx bit on the last friggin bolt! I had to abort the mission.... I'll try again next time I do a tire change. Stupid Torx Bolts!
The first time I went to change my Primary oil at 1000 miles (Factory tightened) the t27 torx bolts were so tight I rounded two of .... had to cut slots in them and tap them loose with a flat screwdriver!
Every time I come across those dang Torx bolts, I swap 'em out with Stainless Hex. Stupid Torx Bolts!
I was going to change out my worn rear break rotor with a wicked chrome one and actually BROKE my Craftsman Torx bit on the last friggin bolt! I had to abort the mission.... I'll try again next time I do a tire change. Stupid Torx Bolts!
The first time I went to change my Primary oil at 1000 miles (Factory tightened) the t27 torx bolts were so tight I rounded two of .... had to cut slots in them and tap them loose with a flat screwdriver!
Every time I come across those dang Torx bolts, I swap 'em out with Stainless Hex. Stupid Torx Bolts!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 10,058
Likes: 8
From: MEXICO
Actually mine was getting inverted mirrors, I ordered 6 sets and they kept sending regular ones... I had to actually swap right-left in order to be able to invert them... can you believe that???
Mimo.
Mimo.
Tourer
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 483
Likes: 1
From: Tampa Bay area, Florida
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, PA
I'm beginning to question if the factory pays attention to their own torque values.
I was going to change out my worn rear break rotor with a wicked chrome one and actually BROKE my Craftsman Torx bit on the last friggin bolt! I had to abort the mission.... I'll try again next time I do a tire change. Stupid Torx Bolts!
The first time I went to change my Primary oil at 1000 miles (Factory tightened) the t27 torx bolts were so tight I rounded two of .... had to cut slots in them and tap them loose with a flat screwdriver!
Every time I come across those dang Torx bolts, I swap 'em out with Stainless Hex. Stupid Torx Bolts!
I was going to change out my worn rear break rotor with a wicked chrome one and actually BROKE my Craftsman Torx bit on the last friggin bolt! I had to abort the mission.... I'll try again next time I do a tire change. Stupid Torx Bolts!
The first time I went to change my Primary oil at 1000 miles (Factory tightened) the t27 torx bolts were so tight I rounded two of .... had to cut slots in them and tap them loose with a flat screwdriver!
Every time I come across those dang Torx bolts, I swap 'em out with Stainless Hex. Stupid Torx Bolts!
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Nor Cal
Relocating the coil and horn behind the transmission. Would have been easier if I had taken the wheel off or removed the shocks. Getting in there wasnt an issue...it was the clearance once the coil was in there...snugging bolts an 1/8 of a turn at a time w/ an allen wrench while lying on your back and not being able to see the head gets old real fast. Super happy w/ the results.