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I think he's talking about the friction modifiers that's added to the automotive oils like the 15w50 for better fuel economy. The 20w50 doesn't have these. Since our engines have different sumps the 15w50 is perfectly fine to run in your engine. The 20w50 does have higher levels of zinc and phosphorus than the 15w50 which is a good thing for better wear between parts.
Thanks.
Aren't high zinc and phosphorus levels mostly important on engines with non-roller lifters, to prevent cam and follower wear?
STANDARD mobil 1 is not for motorcycles. it's for cars!! I.E. liquid cooled engine not air cooled. you NEED to run a MOTORCYCLE oil. or you are going to harm your engine. stressing this so you don't harm your bike any further.
Yep, know the difference ... Just to lazy to spell out that it is the mobile 1 for aircooled v twins in 20W-50
My EVO has had Castrol GTX 20-50 in it since new. I have 40,000 miles on it now and no problems so far. I know of others that have run this oil well over 100,000 without problems, so maybe it just works for non synthetic oil although I can't see that there is that much difference between water cooled and air cooled as far as oil goes. Granted, water cooled car engines run much cooler than our Harleys.
We don't want another oil thread do we? More to the OP's question - I have a 2006 injected Deluxe with 10.25 to 1 compression, Andrews 55 cams, Jagg 10 row oil cooler, Thundermax, SE aircleaner and a Supertrapp 2 into 1 exhaust with 20 discs. On the road on a hot day it will run 285-290 head temps no problem and not much less at night. In stop and go it will climb to 335-340 in about a mile of stop and go traffic at which point I pull over and sit a spell. I wonder how many people are frying their motors and don't even know it - the only way I know is I have the thundermax speedometer that will read out head temps. BTW I use Mobil one 20w50 VTwin oil. This has been going on for a couple of years and it always concerns me - if it dropped an exhaust seat tomorrow I wouldn't be surprised. I see those guys at Sturgis going to the Chip idling thru town and revving the dog due out of their motors at the slightest provocation - they HAVE to be seeing 400 degree head temps. Have never seen one seize or go clank - maybe their piston rings are spaghetti now - I don't know what happens to them in the burn out pit?
I bought the FCS from wardspartswerks.com. They are scheduled to be here today.
Next challenge will be to figure out how to mount them on the Breakout since it has the grenade ignition / coils where most others have the horn (and incidentally the horn mount is what the FCS is designed to fit on).
Next I'll be looking at oil coolers, but I really don't want one hanging off the side of the bike. If I can find one that sits between the frame tubes, or even on top of / below the rectifier, I'd get it.
I bought the FCS from wardspartswerks.com. They are scheduled to be here today.
Next challenge will be to figure out how to mount them on the Breakout since it has the grenade ignition / coils where most others have the horn (and incidentally the horn mount is what the FCS is designed to fit on).
Next I'll be looking at oil coolers, but I really don't want one hanging off the side of the bike. If I can find one that sits between the frame tubes, or even on top of / below the rectifier, I'd get it.
I have relocated my coil to the horn position on my Softail; I couldn't figure out a way to get the fcs mounted without losing that. Luckily, I also have a SE heavy breather, and was able to mount the fcs on the right side of the engine, by fabbing a bracket that allowed them to mount upside-down. I don't think I could have made it work with a conventional breather, and I'm sure the performance is hampered by the push rod tubes, but they still work amazingly!
I did take some pics, and I can take some more if you'd like. I actually had a bracket from a Kuryakyn heat shield laying around, the one that goes under the front of the seat and has the plastic wings to block some of the heat from the engine. It was on the bike when I bought it, but I changed the seat, and as it was more narrow at the front then stock, it wasn't long before I had snapped the plastic right off. So, I bent the bracket to fit the lifter cover bolts, and the height was perfect! Now to connect the bracket to the FCS, I took a piece of 1" SS stock and sawed it 1 1/8"" long. Before I sawed it to length, I cut a 1/8" deep shelf in it, 7/8" wide, ending up with a 1" square block, with a 1/8" x 1/8" x 1" lip on one end. The lip made it much easier to position it on the Kuryakyn bracket. Then I tapped a hole in the bottom (lip side) to bolt the block to the bracket, and another in the side for the FCS to bolt to. I think it looks ok, but if I had to tie it on with rusty tie-wire I would, to get it on there! It's that important to me, you really won't believe how it eliminates the problems with heat, no more heat billowing up between your legs!
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