For those with enclosed trailers
There a ton of stuff I'll toss in the dumpster or give away for free, but my bikes.....I just gotta take care of them myself.
Now there seems to be a debate/difference of opinions/controversy about whether torsion spring axles are better than leaf springers? I'm not as concerned about longevity as I am a smooth ride.
Anyone want to weigh in on that? (I've already secured two super sturdy wheel chocks and tons of ratchet tie-downs). I'm definitely installing the e-track system. I'm just not sure which axles to go with.
Thanks
I may be mistaken, but I think I only read one comment that most didn't mention - A bigger trailer may be nicer as far as having extra room, etc. But buying one that's not too big for your needs has some advantages too.
Any extra space at all will add to your increased drag and wind resistance. You have to consider the tow vehicle's capabilities, fuel consumption, and ease of use. A lot of folks on the east coast don't always think of the geography going west. Lots of big, long hills and higher elevations and grades in the midwest and other regions. Those have serious effects on towing, and driver skills. And winds are consistently and often MUCH higher in those regions too. You don't necessarily experience in congested, urban areas, until you travel to the wide open expanses of the inland regions.
Recent trends show trailer ceilings (campers, toy-haulers, etc) to be much higher than they use to be. That's nice when you're sitting still and not traveling, but it is it worth the additional drag? Some haulers have 9' ceilings... why is that necessary? Same goes for the length of the trailer. Ease of getting in and out of tight areas, fuel islands, crowded parking lots, available parking space, etc, has some huge benefits.
Proper load securement is very vital to trouble-free trailer towing. Staggered bike positions is always nice as it allows ease of access during loading and unloading, and just a little more room for straps, bars, pegs, etc. Properly and securely mounted wheel chocks are a must. Heavy-duty d-rings are oky, but not the cheap, little stamped steel ones. E-track is very good, as long as it's also properly secured to metal, frame structures, not wood screws in the floor deck. Remember, every mile down the road takes a toll on all fasteners, so they have to be very secure. More than you'd probably think, if you're not familiar with the world of towing and trailering. Road vibrations and constant movement can be wearing on trailers, and all of their components.
Another valuable consideration is a spare tire... or two. Your tires and wheels may very well be brand new and in the best of condition. But there's no guarantee that you'll never run over a piece of metal or other debris that will shred a tire. And the additional downside of that is, an exploding trailer tire will often take out it's neighbor. Ever try finding a couple spare trailer tires in Bum****, Egypt at 10:00pm... in the rain? Expect a looong wait, and maybe double the cost... or more. That'll put a damper on a 5- day trip (or any length, for that matter).
I've hauled an array of trailers all over the continent totaling over 2,000,000 miles over 20+ years, with everything from Class 2 trucks through semi-tractors, and I have learned one major thing about ALL trailers... pack them efficiently, wisely, be well-prepared, and use the smallest one that will still get your job done. They may be like a garage on wheels, but unlike a garage, bigger is not always better.
Hope this helps.
Condor or like chock makes riding in and tying down simple and Etrack is the way to go.









