I'd pump'er full of grease in that heat ! Take out the oil pump and hook up a 2 1/2" trash pump !

 

5,000 on dino oil is pushing it in south texas heat. you can find mobil 1 20w50 on sale at the auto parts stores on a regular basis. find it on sale and buy enough for 2 or 3 oil changes. when you get low, start watching the ads and re-stock. a few extra bucks on oil is cheap insurance.

 

thanks

 

It does not break down. It gets dirty, it loses additives but does not break down.
Unless you are riding short trips, extreme dust, and stop and go no reason you can not run quality oil 5K. I have for years.
That said if it helps you sleep change it a bit early.
In extreme engine heat oils will not provide the lube it should that is one strong point of syn oils they do stand up to higher heat.

 

Most don't know this and probably even more won't believe this but oil breaks down VERY LITTLE. The main reason for changing oil is because it gets dirty. Dirty oil runs much hotter than clean oil too. I run the Amsoil 20/50 syn but I still change my oil every 3K miles for that reason and that reason alone. Filth and dirt are not allowed on my bike, I'm sure not going to allow it in my bike either. Now, everybody line up, take a number and stand in line to jump my azz with my comments on oil and oil changes.

 

Many people consider 270 to be a rough rule-of-thumb temperature where oil should be replaced more frequently, due to accelerated breakdown at high temperatures, such as from oxidation.

Temperatures over 212 help purge water in the oil, so it's not a good thing to consistently run too cold either. At temperatures over 212, the water will flash to steam, and can be purged by the crankcase ventilation system.

 

thanks good to know

 

How do you know that? Have ever had your oil test? Basic dino oil will do a lot more than most people on these forums have been brain washed to believe.

 

Yup. I ran dino oil in some of the most powerful vehicles I have ever owned, and there was never an oil-related failure.

I mostly run synthetics in my "lubrication-challenging" engines now, because if formulated correctly, they can be less susceptible to viscosity reduction with use and temperature, and don't break down as quickly at high temperatures.

I don't think it matters at all what oil one puts in a daily driver, like my Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Another interesting thing:
Some studies are showing that freshly changed oil results in higher wear rates than somewhat used oil. I haven't come across any which have provided a good explanation for that yet. So far, they just have their test observations. But it might be something to think about, versus the usual dogma that more frequent oil changes are better.

 

The Harley manual for my EVO says change oil at 5,000 miles. It also says above 60 deg. you can run straight 50 wt. or above 80 deg. you can run straight 60 wt.. The only thing is when it gets colder in the morning it might turn over a little hard with the thicker oils, but if it is pretty much continually hot I would just run straight 50 or 60 wt.. It gets pretty hot here in Kansas also, and if I am changing oil in late spring I add some straight 60 to the 20-50 that I normally run. Since you are running non synthetic you have the option to run what ever wt. you want. Not sure you can get synthetic in straight 60 wt.. I run non synthetic also and like the option of running the wt. I want.