Internal Handlebar Wiring
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,908
Likes: 19
From: Dayton
Internal Handlebar Wiring
So, those of you that have ran your wires inside your handlebars, any tips or things I should look out for when I install my Wild 1s?
I know the connectors are under the tank and I've also read where some have cut the wires staggered and resoldered them back with shrink-tubing.
Not sure how I'm going to approach it, but I'd like to hear what you all have run up against. I'd like to avoid draining the tank and taking it loose, but will if I need to...
Thanks!
I know the connectors are under the tank and I've also read where some have cut the wires staggered and resoldered them back with shrink-tubing.
Not sure how I'm going to approach it, but I'd like to hear what you all have run up against. I'd like to avoid draining the tank and taking it loose, but will if I need to...
Thanks!
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 560
Likes: 2
From: Green Bay, WI
Just finished another bike. It gets easier each time.
Take photos of wire harness routing
Have a service manual
Have tiny screwdrivers (eyeglass type) for toggling locks in the connectors.
Take close up photos of each pin connector so you can tell where each wire goes.
Label each wire with cheap wire labels from the hardware store
Be aware some lube will take the ink off the labels! (Windex did!)
Take your time removing and install the pins in the connectors. If it doesn't feel right, it isn't.
I double shrink wrap the cables where they exit the bars. Just good insurance.
Take your time and think each step through.
Otherwise pretty easy.
Good luck!
Take photos of wire harness routing
Have a service manual
Have tiny screwdrivers (eyeglass type) for toggling locks in the connectors.
Take close up photos of each pin connector so you can tell where each wire goes.
Label each wire with cheap wire labels from the hardware store
Be aware some lube will take the ink off the labels! (Windex did!)
Take your time removing and install the pins in the connectors. If it doesn't feel right, it isn't.
I double shrink wrap the cables where they exit the bars. Just good insurance.
Take your time and think each step through.
Otherwise pretty easy.
Good luck!
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,109
Likes: 9
From: Connecticut
I bought a tool to remove the connector pins and I used string to pull the wires thru. I used dishwashing soap to lube the wires and draw a picture of both connectors so you know where the wires go. As for the tank you can just take the bolts out and slide it back far enough to get access to the plugs. The first time I did it it was a bitch but I have done 3 sets so far and it does get easier. just dont rush it and you will get it..
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 20
From: Batavia, NY
I used the butt splice connectors for doing my 12" apes, but removed the plastic coating of the connector and went with shrink wrap to protect the connections. As you said, stagger the splices. But look around, you can get wire cheap. It doesn't even have to be corresponding colors to factory as long as you can keep track of what wire goes where in the plugs. Having fat bars and just basic controls, I had no problem fishing my wires through with no lube, no strings. But depending on the bends of your bars, or if you have wiring with a lot of options, you'll have to go with some method to pull through. I internally wired the z bars for my sporty this fall... Never again lol
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 25,306
Likes: 2,443
From: Eastern NE
Trending Topics
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,492
Likes: 19
From: Illinois
Stager and splice, use rubber shrink wrap. Also run your wires and cable, adjust your bars to where you want them then cut access off. You doing Exile internal throttle? If so I would buy his throttle cable too. You going hydraulic clutch? I assume yes because running a clutch "cable" through your bars won't work. If it will it will be tough and also if the cable breaks you have to pull everything back out in order to replace it with a new one. This will be well worth it, it really cleans the front end up nicely.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
If you move or remove the tank, MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE FUEL LINE FIRST!!!!
Moving the tank more than an inch or two can be one of the most exasperating and expensive mistakes you can make.
The silly thing is made of hard plastic, is easily broken, and now costs upwards of $70 or $80 bucks in some dealers, if they have one in stock.
PS some string and a vacuum is the easiest way I found for pulling wires through a set of bars.
Moving the tank more than an inch or two can be one of the most exasperating and expensive mistakes you can make.
The silly thing is made of hard plastic, is easily broken, and now costs upwards of $70 or $80 bucks in some dealers, if they have one in stock.
PS some string and a vacuum is the easiest way I found for pulling wires through a set of bars.