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Does anyone know how I can adjust my clutch engagement? Right now it doesn't grab until the lever is almost all the way out. How can I make it engage sooner and possibly a little smoother instead of all at once?
Clutch adjustment is a rather simple procedure. I'm going to suggest that you purchase a factory service manual for your bike, review the clutch adjustment procedure, and adjust your clutch. If you plan on doing any self maintenance/adjustemnts, the factory service manual is a must. But, if your willing to wing it - pull your derby cover, slide the rubber boot down on your clutch cable, lossen the jam nut and turn the adjuster until there is a large amount of free play in the clutch hand lever, loosen the locknut on the clutch adjster screw (center of clutch beneath derby cover), turn the adjuster screw in until lightly seated then back it out1/2 to 1 full turn. Torque jam nut to 72-120 IN-LBS while holding allen screw (difficult to do with a torque wrench - I welded a bar on to a socket so that I could insert the allen wrench through socket center). Squeeze clutch serveral times to set ball and ramp release mechanism. Adjust freeplay using cable adjuster to obtain 1/16-1/8 inch between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket. Tighten adjuster jam nut. Reinstall derby cover and go for a ride.
Note: bike should be on a stand for this procedure. It can be done on the jiffy sand, but you may loose oil out of your primary case. If you have someone to assist in holding the bike, a 2 X 4 can be placed under the jiffy stand to get the bike nearly level.
what he said...and..you should adjust the clutch with the bike cold.
ORIGINAL: Geoseismic
Clutch adjustment is a rather simple procedure. I'm going to suggest that you purchase a factory service manual for your bike, review the clutch adjustment procedure, and adjust your clutch. If you plan on doing any self maintenance/adjustemnts, the factory service manual is a must. But, if your willing to wing it - pull your derby cover, slide the rubber boot down on your clutch cable, lossen the jam nut and turn the adjuster until there is a large amount of free play in the clutch hand lever, loosen the locknut on the clutch adjster screw (center of clutch beneath derby cover), turn the adjuster screw in until lightly seated then back it out1/2 to 1 full turn. Torque jam nut to 72-120 IN-LBS while holding allen screw (difficult to do with a torque wrench - I welded a bar on to a socket so that I could insert the allen wrench through socket center). Squeeze clutch serveral times to set ball and ramp release mechanism. Adjust freeplay using cable adjuster to obtain 1/16-1/8 inch between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket. Tighten adjuster jam nut. Reinstall derby cover and go for a ride.
Note: bike should be on a stand for this procedure. It can be done on the jiffy sand, but you may loose oil out of your primary case. If you have someone to assist in holding the bike, a 2 X 4 can be placed under the jiffy stand to get the bike nearly level.
What both of them said but before you begin the adjustment behind the Derby cover you first have to run down the cable adjustment so that you are beginning with full adjust ment available (screw it so that all the parts come closer together, not farther apart). After you've done that then you do the actual clutch adjustment. Also, you can tighten the jam nut by hand with a box wrench while holding the adjuster pin - just get it very good and snug, Then remove the box wrench and put the torque wrench on to finish the tightening. You finish up buy making the cable adjustment such that you still have about 1/16" free play (when hot) at the lever.
I asked this same question in reference to changing out the original derby cover for a skull logo one. I was told by various people that as long as the bike was upright (someone sits on it, or it is on a stand while you remove the cover), this wouldn't be an issue. I had a couple of guys even tell me that they did it themselves, with the bike on the sidestand, and again had no issues with fluid loss. Personally, I erred on the side of caution, and had my sit on the bike, while I changed out the cover. No fluid loss whatsoever. Hope this helps.
I'm familiar with how to adjust both the clutch (inside the derby cover) and clutch cable, but I still can't get my clutch to engage as soon as the lever comes off the handlebar.
In order to achieve this, when turning the adjusting screw (inside the derby cover), do I want to back it off more than the recommended 1/2 turn?
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