brake light problem
The dual filament bulb for the brake light seems to be working as a running light. When I try the front brake or the rear brake the light does not get any brighter. When I press the front brake and let go the just light flickers. When using the foot pedal nothing happens.
The dual filament bulb has both filaments lit up. Should there only be one filament lit without any brake application?
I tried jumping the rear brake sensor and still no difference in brightness. Im guessing maybe the lever switch might be permanently stuck on?
The dual filament bulb has both filaments lit up. Should there only be one filament lit without any brake application?
I tried jumping the rear brake sensor and still no difference in brightness. Im guessing maybe the lever switch might be permanently stuck on?
I found the problem I unplugged the switch housing harness for the right side and then only one filiment was lit and the rear brake light worked. I guess the front brake switch is stuck on.
Have you messed with the bars or levers? If so you've busted the switch. It's a bitch to replace.
There's a post on how some have added a screw or a bumper to extend the button.
It's a normally closed switch and makes contact when the lever RELEASES the button.
There's a post on how some have added a screw or a bumper to extend the button.
It's a normally closed switch and makes contact when the lever RELEASES the button.
Ok the nipple on the switch is ok and the switch is working normally. I lost this copper peace I seen laying around what was it for? I know that the lever is not holding the switch in far enough to shut off the second filiment
Last edited by ruckus4offroad; Mar 21, 2014 at 02:35 PM.
Not sure on the copper piece, My lever touches the button. If you push the lever away from the throttle does it shut off? If so, you need to extend something.
Or maybe bleed the brakes to get more back pressure from the brakes pushing the lever forward.
Or maybe bleed the brakes to get more back pressure from the brakes pushing the lever forward.
Last edited by RANGER73; Mar 21, 2014 at 02:42 PM.
I gotta say that the switch housings are a nightmare. I ordered replacemet switch housings and the brake switch doesnt sit in place properly because the molding is missing some pressure points that help keep the switch snug. Also the throttle handle snags internally just before wide open because the molding is rounded on the inside instead of square like the original.
I got the brake switch working but My right turn signal button is scraping on the housing. all 4 lips are in the notches and the bracket is straight. I think those switch housings are the worse design ever!!!!
I got the brake switch working but My right turn signal button is scraping on the housing. all 4 lips are in the notches and the bracket is straight. I think those switch housings are the worse design ever!!!!
I believe that the brass wedge shaped piece you 'found' belongs between the switch and the outside of the switch housing.
Its supposed to hold the switch in the proper position so the switch plunger is kept in the center of the opening.
Its supposed to hold the switch in the proper position so the switch plunger is kept in the center of the opening.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tidefan60
Sportster Models
5
Apr 23, 2010 01:45 AM




