Hi my name is tony just joined forum, i have a 2010 softail custom and am wondering how i can go from chain drive to gear drive on motor any help would be appreciated.

 

I take it you are asking about converting from the hydraulic tensioners/cams to gear driven cams?

 

What U have should work great for a long time. Gear drives have issues too. With a press fit crank there's allways a worry. Most dealers only get 250$ to change cam shoes just replace them every 60,000 miles to play it safe

 

Gear driven cams eliminate all the potential issues associated with chain driven cams.

To convert to gear drives on on your 2010 model, you must purchase a gear drive install kit which includes a set of inner/outer gears, inner cam bearings, block off plates to shut off the oil supply to the tensioners which will be removed and cam cover gasket. You wil also need to purchase an aftermarket cam set since H-D does not offer any gear drive cams.

Crank runout can be an issue and should be checked to verify that runout is within acceptable limits to accomodate gear drive cams; runout should be less than .003".

If you were to consider running gear driven cams, you should consider upgrading the OEM cam plate to the SE billet plate/hi capacity oil pump kit; the PN is 25282-11

 

Just curious, but what reason are you doing this? Even in big bore builds you don't read about guys changing to gear driven cams. Is there alot of benefits to doing it?

 

Before the introduction of the hydraulic chain tensioners and roller chains in the '06 Dyna and all '07 and up models there were real issues with the OEM tensioner failures in the '99-'06 (except the Dyna) model years. The tensioner material was different and the tensioners were spring loaded against a fixe link chain; they were know for early and castastrophic failures that could take out a motor. Replacing the early chain drive system with a gear drive system was mandatory for a performance upgrade. Hard to justify investing $2500 in BB kit, cams, etc. and having it all go **** up if the tensioners failed.

The new hydraulic tensioner/roller chain setup does not have the failure rate that the early chain drive system has but some still prefer the guarantee that there will never be such a failure by replacing the chain drive system with a gear drive system; it's bullet proof.

Some claim that an additional 2-3 HP will result from a loss in parasitic drag that the chains put on the motor but the gears also put a parasitic drag on the motor and I am not convinced that there is any difference. Cam timing is more accurate, particularly at higher rpms so there may be a couple of HP in the upper rpm range with gear drive cams but most of us don't spin our motors up that high or that often to take advantage of any gain if there is a gain.

It's a personal choice and often based on the performance level of the motor and how the bike is ridden.

 

Good to know. I appreciate the detailed answer.

 

hey guys first thanks for all the info,im not new to the bike scene, ok spelling dont count,ive been riding for a while,i had a 47 knuck,66 shovel,now a stock 72 shovel that needs work,a 78 shovel almost running, 99 evo sitting in the corner,im not being boastfull, but this new iron is a different world,the reason i brought up gear drive,the 2010 softail started making a strange noise, my hearing stinks, but it sounds like its coming from the bottom end, bike has 27000 miles, the only thing i can tell you about the sound is it sounds like something rubbing on something, so the first thing i thought was plastic shoes, than i saw magnum629c write they should be good for 60000, it might even be something in the primary, im going to try to zero in on it this weekend, again thank you for your help, this forum thing is pretty cool, please be carefull riding, later

 

The noise could be tensioner shoes but there haven't been many such faillures with the upgraded hyraulic tensioners. On the other hand, there have been may issues (all the same) with the compensator which is where I would be looking. There is a factory fix and an aftermarket fix which IMHO is better.

Check the 2014 SE HD catalog for the -14 comp kit; the factory fix. Check out the Compensaver for an aftermarket fix http://www.compensaver.com/. Hoban Brothers, AKA Darkhorse has an aftermarket solution as well but not sure if it has been brought to market yet. The history shows that the OEM compensator goes t!ts up around 20K-25K miles.

 

djl hey man thanks,im kinda beat now,picking up garbage all day takes it out of ya,ill pull the prim cover in the am and look around, thanks alot