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OK I hate to start another thread but I been searching for a while and most of the info that I found is for the type of turn signals, location, size all good info
But Im more interested on the way I should run wires another member help me with some info but I would like instructions, pictures any extra info BEFORE I cut a wire
This is my understanding
1. I cut the wire that comes out of the handle bars to the turn signal housing.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the handle bar and pull the wire that I cut out of the handle bars.
3. Put the handle bars in the desire position again.
4. Attached clamps to the forks
5. Solder the 3 wires that I pull from the handle bars to the 3 wires on the turn signal housing. (matching colors)
6. attached turn signal housing to the clamps
7. Use wire ties to secure wire to frame.
If this BASIC information is accurate please confirm and also PLEASE add any additional info.
Some old threads have:
1. I need to remove the gas tank to find and unplug a connector under the tank is this necessary?
Im using the stock turn signals again I thought about using LEDs but, in my opinion, I don't want to spent the $$$ on the new lights, load equalizer the turn signals will be on for 30 seconds or less, so no need for the extra expense.
I will use the money that I save on the turn signal LEDs and buy the day maker headlamp from HD
Please help me determine what I need to do in reference to the wiring thanks
I put mine down here. Not too tough a project. I did however remove the fuel tank, (real easy to do). With the tank out of the way I could splice, route and secure the wires any way I wanted. Solder and heat shrink to insure longevity and water tightness !
as a side note: I did not loosen or remove the bars. I was able to thread the wires from the control through the bars and down the frame. You'll be hard pressed to see any wires at all...
I put mine down here. Not too tough a project. I did however remove the fuel tank, (real easy to do). With the tank out of the way I could splice, route and secure the wires any way I wanted. Solder and heat shrink to insure longevity and water tightness !
I like that location also do I need clamps to attach to this location?
So are my "basic" instructions accurate? do I need to unplug at the 6pin connector?
I don't understand why you would cut the wires? Why not remove the pins from the connector, pull the wires from the top, then put them back into the connectors after you remount the signals?
Unplugged the wires going to the signals under the front if the tank (didn't have to remove the tank, just lift the front a bit). Plug in the new connector and run it to the new lights. I just cut the old wiring where it came out of the switch housing and left the rest inside the bars.
I don't understand why you would cut the wires? Why not remove the pins from the connector, pull the wires from the top, then put them back into the connectors after you remount the signals?
If I don't cut the wire that comes out of the handle bars into the turn signal housing, how do i pull the wire out?
Unplugged the wires going to the signals under the front if the tank (didn't have to remove the tank, just lift the front a bit). Plug in the new connector and run it to the new lights. I just cut the old wiring where it came out of the switch housing and left the rest inside the bars.
OK good idea one of the many reason this is a great place to get ideas
Will this work if I keep the stock signals? I don't know yet if I want LEDs
I read the description on this connector and I looks like will make the turn signals running lights correct?
if so, maybe I buy the Custom Dynamic Ringz these are running lights and turn signals LEDs inserts.
Should work with regular halogen bulbs, you just won't use the load equalizer that I believe comes separate if I Remember correctly. And yes, the reason I chose this kit was that it made the front signals on all the time for running lights, then they flash for turn.
Should work with regular halogen bulbs, you just won't use the load equalizer that I believe comes separate if I Remember correctly. And yes, the reason I chose this kit was that it made the front signals on all the time for running lights, then they flash for turn.
Perfect .
I think I will buy the controller that you suggested, the relocation clamps and the CUSTOM DYNAMICS GEN200-AW-1157, so I can have running lights and turn signals (LEDs)
One more question, does the controller from kuryakyn has long enough wires to solder to the turn signals? the picture and install instructions don't have this info...
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