Todd's Cycle 10" Strip Bars---QUESTION
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
From: South Korea right now
Mine dont really look that long.
No matter, we will find out in a couple weeks hopefully.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 15
From: South East PA
i heard the slim cable lengths are the same as the lo cable lengths... i'm just worried about it getting too tight with the bars at full turn.
Last edited by ADRENALINE RUSH; Jun 20, 2014 at 04:26 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 114
Likes: 1
From: South Korea right now
any word on this yet? i will be ordering my strip bars in a week so... im still debating 10" or 12"... if your stock lo cables worked that might tip me in that direction. let me know if you tried yet. thanks
i heard the slim cable lengths are the same as the lo cable lengths... i'm just worried about it getting too tight with the bars at full turn.
i heard the slim cable lengths are the same as the lo cable lengths... i'm just worried about it getting too tight with the bars at full turn.
I went to my Harley guy today and he swears that wont work. Looking at my cables and brake lines, there really isnt much slack. I dont think its gonna work. What sucks is that my bike is my only transportation here in Korea so I dont want to take it all apart and something not work and then be out of a ride until I get the parts in to make it right.
So, I'm gonna be ordering new cables after all.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 15
From: South East PA
i just did mine! unfortunately stock didn't work 100%, but it did 80-90%... everything was fine (throttle cables have to be behind the bars, otherwise there to short) only other issue was the front brake cable was short, have to get a longer one (if you don't have ABS it might work idk)...
also the easiest way to the wire connectors is to unbolt the tank in the front and under the flap that runs down the tank, then lift the tank and slide it back as far as you can, then lift up the rubber flaps that covers the wires and disconnect the ones going to the controls (theres a disconnect for the wires for each control on each side, just follow back the wires).
for fishing the cables use a strong string with a nut tied to the end of it and let gravity do the work, i learned through trial and error.
also the easiest way to the wire connectors is to unbolt the tank in the front and under the flap that runs down the tank, then lift the tank and slide it back as far as you can, then lift up the rubber flaps that covers the wires and disconnect the ones going to the controls (theres a disconnect for the wires for each control on each side, just follow back the wires).
for fishing the cables use a strong string with a nut tied to the end of it and let gravity do the work, i learned through trial and error.
Last edited by ADRENALINE RUSH; Jul 13, 2014 at 02:41 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 15
From: South East PA
unfortunately since i have ABS it wont work (i really think if i didn't have it the front stock brake line could work). BUT with ABS you either need a longer line (which i have on order now). Or successfully do what i tried below...
Last edited by ADRENALINE RUSH; Jul 15, 2014 at 03:08 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 440
Likes: 15
From: South East PA
i figured i will need to change the brake line out anyway so i might as well try and if worst case scenario happens and i break something... then im no worse off than i was before.
i put it in a vice and straightened out the banjo bolt (at the master cylinder) carefully and slowly bending it with my hands, then i turned the metal tube (connected to the ABS) and bent it straight.
it gave it enough room! i could fully turn in both directions left and right with no problems at all. i was pretty much done the job and close to being ready to ride, but.... i decided to F with it... thought the metal tube wasn't straight enough and wanted to spend a few min getting it better, instead of being careful and working it with i hands i got a few tools for extra torque... and BAM!!! snapped it right were the tube connects to the ABS
i will be installing a + 4" brake line this weekend
i didnt get a pic of this bent upward, but i loosened the bolt just a hair (somehow how didn't let any oil out), turned the tube all the way to the right, then bent the tube as straight upward as possible.
i put it in a vice and straightened out the banjo bolt (at the master cylinder) carefully and slowly bending it with my hands, then i turned the metal tube (connected to the ABS) and bent it straight.
it gave it enough room! i could fully turn in both directions left and right with no problems at all. i was pretty much done the job and close to being ready to ride, but.... i decided to F with it... thought the metal tube wasn't straight enough and wanted to spend a few min getting it better, instead of being careful and working it with i hands i got a few tools for extra torque... and BAM!!! snapped it right were the tube connects to the ABS
i will be installing a + 4" brake line this weekend
i didnt get a pic of this bent upward, but i loosened the bolt just a hair (somehow how didn't let any oil out), turned the tube all the way to the right, then bent the tube as straight upward as possible.
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Stage I
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Bettendorf, IA
Just wanted to say thank you. I have a 2010 Flstf and pulled the trigger on the 10" Todds bars 1.5" diameter and new risers. I did not have to replace any cables or wires. Keep in mind my bike did not have ABS either. For that I've read you need a new cable. But I just wanted to thank everyone for their posts that helped me decide. Now I have to do something about my mirrors and front turn signals.
Novice
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: In the city
Love this bike, what all have you done to it? Size of that rear tire and what you had to do to make it work? I tried to search your threads with zero luck
