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Valve tick is driving me NUTZ!!

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Old May 17, 2014 | 06:27 PM
  #11  
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You spent all that $$$ on getting you engine built.. Then put a Oil made for Cager in it,,

I've read may reports on that and IMO you're going Cheap on using Auto (cager) oil (15-50) which has been proven to Thin out more than The Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 oil under the heat of our bikes....

I know Lot of member say its fine,, but my reading Reviews has always said/reported that it is thinner under the heat that a Harley engine operates at.

Thinner oil could be causing the tick.....

Syn oils usually will thin more the Dyno OILs anyway,, but I won't use a oil made for Cager's such as Mobil 1 - 15-50 in my engine when for a couple bucks more you can buy oils made for V-Twins...,,, just me,????
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by oct1949
You spent all that $$$ on getting you engine built.. Then put a Oil made for Cager in it,,

I've read may reports on that and IMO you're going Cheap on using Auto (cager) oil (15-50) which has been proven to Thin out more than The Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 oil under the heat of our bikes....

I know Lot of member say its fine,, but my reading Reviews has always said/reported that it is thinner under the heat that a Harley engine operates at.

Thinner oil could be causing the tick.....

Syn oils usually will thin more the Dyno OILs anyway,, but I won't use a oil made for Cager's such as Mobil 1 - 15-50 in my engine when for a couple bucks more you can buy oils made for V-Twins...,,, just me,????
There may be something to that, not sure, but my thinking is wouldn't it also have had the tick before the head work if oil thinning was the culprit?
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 06:24 AM
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Good point on having a constant tick if the pushrods where the problem. Didn't think of that. But, like you said it such an easy thing to check that you might as well check it and rule it out.

I would be going insane if I was in your position. I don't feel right when I know my sled or my car is not in proper working order. Good luck and make sure you keep us posted.
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 09:30 AM
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I read on another forum where the ticking noise was coming from the rocker arm catching on the support. Might want to check that if you take it apart.
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by uscanuck
I read on another forum where the ticking noise was coming from the rocker arm catching on the support. Might want to check that if you take it apart.
I haven't yet, but am going to pull the rocker covers and check for any signs of possible issues with the rocker arms making the ticking. I'll report with my findings. Thx guys.
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 05:27 PM
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When we put cams in my buddy's road king he went with the adjustable pushrods also. He had ticking from day one. Finally we went in through the top and installed a set of stock pushrods, ticking was gone. I've never been a fan of the adjustable ones.

By the way we found a set of used stock pushrods on ebay for $15. You're not losing much if that doesn't stop the tick.

Good luck
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rancid13
When we put cams in my buddy's road king he went with the adjustable pushrods also. He had ticking from day one. Finally we went in through the top and installed a set of stock pushrods, ticking was gone. I've never been a fan of the adjustable ones.

By the way we found a set of used stock pushrods on ebay for $15. You're not losing much if that doesn't stop the tick.

Good luck
I hear you I would've preferred stock pushrods over adjustables, but the guy that ported the heads also milled them .035 and then I also used a .030 Cometic head gasket which is almost .020 thinner than the stock HD head gasket (a total of .050) so he recommended getting adjustables. Do you think stock length pushrods would be too long in my case?
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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I pulled the rocker covers this afternoon and had a look see. I could not find any evidence of the rocker arms touching the rocker covers. Then I pulled the plugs and spun the motor over with the starter while I watched the arms in action. All appeared to be functioning perfectly at that slow speed with no apparent funny noises. Then I collapsed the pushrod covers to see if I could see where the rods may have been hitting the covers or the hole in the head they pass thru but all looked good there too. So I put the covers back on and took it for a spin and still have the tick. Right back where I started from..... So I think I'll have a set of custom non-adjustable pushrods made up and if that doesn't do it I'll try replacing the lifters. Nothing like chasing your tail around and around!
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 03:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by oct1949
You spent all that $$$ on getting you engine built.. Then put a Oil made for Cager in it,,

I've read may reports on that and IMO you're going Cheap on using Auto (cager) oil (15-50) which has been proven to Thin out more than The Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 oil under the heat of our bikes...
I've been thinking about this so this morning I thought what the heck I'll try putting in some new Mobil 1 V-Twin 20/50 weight oil incase it did help with the tick and also before I tore back into it. Sad to say that I could tell no difference whatsoever and the noise still persists. Anyway at least that's one more thing off the list for me to try. Greabert
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Greabert
I hear you I would've preferred stock pushrods over adjustables, but the guy that ported the heads also milled them .035 and then I also used a .030 Cometic head gasket which is almost .020 thinner than the stock HD head gasket (a total of .050) so he recommended getting adjustables. Do you think stock length pushrods would be too long in my case?
No clue about that. Maybe someone else would know... I would say the gasket difference couldn't make any difference by itself just because tons of people have switched to Cometics (I have). The combo of that and milling I'm not sure...
 
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