Check your spokes......bet they're loose.

 

If your tires are not worn and pressure is set to book. It's the fall away. Older ball bearing front ends had long set fall aways. It is exactly opposite of what makes sense. Mine even clacks when set to upper side on hard bumps. The bearings are tapered rollers and only need to be set to zero clearance or even .001 loose. Not possible to measure like a wheel bearing but fall away works. Grease them. Raise the front. Release the pinch bolts and your clutch cable retainer. Loosen the locknut and adjuster and tap the bearing area with a soft hammer. Clip a plump bob on the lower edge of fender with a cloths pin. Lay a ruler and lightly tap the bars till you find a fall away center point. Then set it to lower limit. Try it. Bet it cuts it out and at speed on the interstate, handling will be much better. In the pot hole dodging and twisties, set like that, it will fill more like a sport bike then what it did tight. It will steer with your lean like power steering. And with the rake you have, it's won't wobble. When it's tight, you overcorrect for road conditions. If you try it, please let me know what you find out. It fixed mine. Made my clunky, wondering at speed deuce come alive. My bearings still look new at 40K. when I inspected them for the first time a while back.

 

Check your spokes. A simple "ting" from a wrench if tapped when off the floor is a good indicator. If you have a lot of "thud" sounds then they're loose, and that's probably it. Just a suggestion.

You don't really need to pay $120 to check the runout of the rim. Simply jack up the bike, immobilize the bars, and finagle whatever you have to in order to "point" something at the rim (like a pencil or something) and start spinning. It shouldn't move more than I'd say 1/4", just guessing. the manual says show much you can have, and it shows you how to test the runout.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I did check the runout with a simple doll rod while up on my jack before I took it out yesterday. Its a bit wavey, no wheres near 1/4", but without a dial guage I couldn't tell you how much, though it wasn't crazy amounts. My guess is its within range maybe, but I haven't checked my manual. I did swing by the indie shop last night. He's a hell of a nice guy just as I have heard. The indie took it out for a spin after getting there. His first words before even jumping on it was my front tire is trash. It's worn more on the right then on the left and beyond that is showing signs of dry rot. I didn't notice the difference until he directly point it out. After he came back he said he couldn't feel anything abnormal; however he didn't get it up above 50mph either. We are in an urban setting. Anyways, tree bushing are showing signs of age with a touch of slop and the tire is crap, so I drop it off this weekend before I head out of town. He's going to change the tree bushings, the front tire, do my state inspection, and check the tru-ness of the rims with his jig and adjust the tree/everything up front for $300 bucks out the door. Which leads me to why he's adjusting the tree, after he returned with my bike he also asked if I have ever dropped the bike because of the way the tire was wearing and he said it looked as if the front was tweaked a touch in which he showed me exactly where he was talking about... its not tweaked much and wouldn't be noticed if not looked at from the angle he showed me, which yes the bike was dropped, however not by myself. I bought it dropped. The guy, a newb, from which I bought it from dropped it on himself at a stop sign after only riding maybe 1500 miles. I am not sure how the hell he did it, but that's his story . Burnt his leg all to hell and gave him some light road rash which scared him, hence one of the reasons why he sold it, but that is another story. It never hurt the tins, just messed up the pipes, lower controls, handlebars (from trying to pick it up), and right side turn signals. The dealership has never made any indications there were issues when I had them go through it right after I bought to ensure nothing was bent beyond cosmetic... I didn't see anything alarming when I first looked at it. I replaced everything. The indie seems to think, when the previous owner picked it up or had it picked up they may have tweaked it. He's confident that he can loosen it all up and correct anything and have it back better than ever. Hell I have rode this bike for 8500 miles and never experienced this issue till finally this year. I guess it makes sense beings both sets of tires that I had on only were rode for 3-4500ish miles by myself and after the drop so I would have just started noticing the odd wear just before it became an issue and then the new tires were put on then now I am another 3500-4k miles in on this new set and finally seeing the wear difference and finally noticing the issue... I think its all timing. Anyways, I'll keep you all posted after I get it back.

 

I've an '08 FLSTC and have had a decel wobble, with my hands off the bars, since the first tire change. Tried everything. Back to the dealer and the check fall away, axle bearings, neck bearings. tire pressure, spoke tension, wheel trueness, cupping, balance and finally replaced the tire. NO JOY. Helped a little but did not entirely go away. They even checked the shock oil. I seem to be able to control the wobble to some extent by how and where I sit in the saddle. Let us know if you find the remedy.

 

I fixed the decel wobble on my 2012 fatboy by replacing the stock risers with 4" pull back risers.
Go figure.