Anyone install the passing lamp bypass kit?
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 53
From: Myrtle Beach,SC
So how do you cut the line in the middle? That is where I was stumped/ No room to get diag cutters in and I did not want to mar the cover or the tank. I just took the line off of the right side nipple after cutting off Harley's clamp and placed a rubber hose to collect the fuel while i clamped the left side. I used the same cross over . Did not have to remove the left side at all
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
I cut the line with my lock blade pocket knife. It cuts easy with a sharp knife.
First time I removed a harley tank I did like you did but made a heck if a mess with gas everywhere as I thought I's siphoned all the gas out but not even close so I wasn't ready for the deluge and couldn't get the drain hose on the tank fast enough.
First time I removed a harley tank I did like you did but made a heck if a mess with gas everywhere as I thought I's siphoned all the gas out but not even close so I wasn't ready for the deluge and couldn't get the drain hose on the tank fast enough.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 944
Likes: 52
From: Foot of the Southern Appalachians
I installed my Truck-Lites about a month ago and considered installing the bypass harness on my Deluxe so the auxiliary lights would stay on when the high beam was on. But I read somewhere that it (harness) wouldn't work unless the bike was equipped with a front fender light.
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
You can DIY this project by changing the passing light switch power from the yellow wire which comes from the low beam to the orange and white wire (check your wiring diagram in service manual to be sure on your year) which comes from the aux circuit. You'll have to provide your own wire and solder and heat shrink.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 53
From: Myrtle Beach,SC
I installed my Truck-Lites about a month ago and considered installing the bypass harness on my Deluxe so the auxiliary lights would stay on when the high beam was on. But I read somewhere that it (harness) wouldn't work unless the bike was equipped with a front fender light.
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
I have Trucklites coming Tuesday!! YAY
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 103
From: St. Louis, MO
The fender light is on the aux circuit so it's a fine place to tap in. At least on my 03.
You are going to LOVE the Trucklight. I installed one on my RK and my Springer. I won't ride without one anymore. They are wonderful.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=979674&styleid=9
You are going to LOVE the Trucklight. I installed one on my RK and my Springer. I won't ride without one anymore. They are wonderful.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=979674&styleid=9
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
I installed my Truck-Lites about a month ago and considered installing the bypass harness on my Deluxe so the auxiliary lights would stay on when the high beam was on. But I read somewhere that it (harness) wouldn't work unless the bike was equipped with a front fender light.
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
If what I read was incorrect please let me know, I would like to get this harness installed as soon as possible. One more thing, the Truck-Lites are a hell of a lot better than the stock headlights/auxiliary, riding at night is enjoyable now!
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,721
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From: St. Louis, MO
Here is a nice how-to with pics on how to wire the the passing lights to the Aux circuit courtesy to Gordon, GTMalone who provides a cornucopia of tech articles on the Heritage Springer forum. The switch location is on the left side of the tank on a heritage springer vs the forks, but the concept is the same. You should check your wiring diagram to ensure your passing light switch is yellow and your aux is orange and white before proceeding.
Originally Posted by gtmalone
HSOA TECH TIPS
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ----- changed by ---------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6/11/2009 - gtmalone #2056 - document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
passing lamps - lighting - wiring - blown fuse -headlight - headlamp - fender lamp - front end - front fender removal
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Passing lamps increase load on lighting circuit close to maximum capacity resulting in occasional blown fuses. Moving power source for passing lamps from lighting circuit to aux circuit eliminates this problem. Also adds safety margin as passing lamps can be operated if the lighting circuit or headlamp fails for any reason.
1.2 - Gas tank must be removed or repositioned to access the fender lamp connector when removing the front fender. Relocating the connector to in front of the gas tank eliminates the need to remove or reposition gas tank.
Although the tasks are documented separately, both tasks can be done at the same time where you only have to remove/reinstall the gas tank one time.
2. HOW TO - PASSING LAMP REWIRE
2.1 - Remove or reposition the gas tank to access the wiring harness on the left side of the bike. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before.
2.2 - Locate and disconnect the passing lamp power connector which should be a single male/female spade connector separate from the main harness. The power source from the headlamp is yellow. The wire to the passing lamp switch is white. Refer to Figure 1.
2.3 - Locate the aux power circuit in the main harness on the left side of the bike. This should be an orange/white wire. Verify on your bike’s wiring diagram. Refer to Figure 1.
Refer to Figure 2 for the following steps.
2.4 - Cut a slit in the main harness sheath to expose more of the orange/white wire. Cut the orange/white wire where you have enough length on each end to work with.
2.5 - Strip approx ź inch of the insulation from both ends of the orange/white wire for soldering. Use a soldering iron to tin both ends of the wire.
2.6 - Slip a butt connector on the right-hand end of the wire. Crimp and solder the butt connector.
2.7 - Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the right-hand end of the wire. Push the tubing out of the way. Do NOT heat it yet.
2.8 - Cut a short length of wire that will be used to connect to the passing lamp connector. Strip and tin both ends of this wire.
2.9 - Solder a female spade connector on one end of this new wire. Place heat shrink tubing over the connector and heat to shrink.
2.10 - Insert the new wire and the remaining orange/white aux circuit wire into the butt connector from step 2.6. Crimp and solder the butt connector. Pull the heat shrink tubing from step 2.7 over the butt connector and heat to shrink.
2.11 - Place a piece of heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to completely cover the power connector from the headlamp.
2.11 - Plug the new wire you added into the passing lamp switch connector.
2.12 - Turn on the passing lamp switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON then AUX to verify the passing lamps are ON in both positions. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2.13 - Tuck the wiring out of the way. Use tie wraps as needed.
2.14 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - FENDER LAMP CONNECTOR MOVE
Refer to Figure 1 for all steps.
3.1 - Remove or reposition the gas tank to access the wiring harness on the left side of the bike. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before.
3.2 - Locate and disconnect the fender lamp connector which should be a two pin AMP connector with orange/white and black wires. The orange/white wire runs to a second AMP connector attached to the main harness. Disconnect his connector.
3.3 - Remove the pins with the orange/white wire from both AMP connectors. Refer to the separate tech tip article on how to remove the pins.
3.4 - Remove the orange/wire from the AMP connector pins and replace with a longer length of wire. Pry the crimped section of the pins apart with a small jeweler’s screw driver or similar tool. Cut the wire from the pins. Strip approx 1/8 inch of the insulation from both ends of the orange/white wire for soldering. Use a soldering iron to tin both ends of the wire. Place the tinned end of the wire into the crimp section of each pin. Use needle nose pliers to recrimp the pins onto the new wire. Solder the wire to the pins. Reinsert the pins into the AMP connectors.
3.5 - Cut a 1 to 2 inch slit in the wiring sheath containing the black wire on the 2 pin AMP connector. Pull the black wire out of the sheath along this slit.
3.6 - Reconnect both AMP connectors.
3.7 - Turn the ignition switch to ON to verify the fender lamp is working.
3.8 - Tuck the fender lamp connector in next to the frame where it will be accessible with the gas tank in place.
3.9 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank.
ALL DONE!
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2
ELECTRICAL
DOCUMENT CHANGE HISTORY:
date ----- changed by ---------- recap of changes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
6/11/2009 - gtmalone #2056 - document created
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
passing lamps - lighting - wiring - blown fuse -headlight - headlamp - fender lamp - front end - front fender removal
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-1999 Evo
2000-2003 TwinCam
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - Passing lamps increase load on lighting circuit close to maximum capacity resulting in occasional blown fuses. Moving power source for passing lamps from lighting circuit to aux circuit eliminates this problem. Also adds safety margin as passing lamps can be operated if the lighting circuit or headlamp fails for any reason.
1.2 - Gas tank must be removed or repositioned to access the fender lamp connector when removing the front fender. Relocating the connector to in front of the gas tank eliminates the need to remove or reposition gas tank.
Although the tasks are documented separately, both tasks can be done at the same time where you only have to remove/reinstall the gas tank one time.
2. HOW TO - PASSING LAMP REWIRE
2.1 - Remove or reposition the gas tank to access the wiring harness on the left side of the bike. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before.
2.2 - Locate and disconnect the passing lamp power connector which should be a single male/female spade connector separate from the main harness. The power source from the headlamp is yellow. The wire to the passing lamp switch is white. Refer to Figure 1.
2.3 - Locate the aux power circuit in the main harness on the left side of the bike. This should be an orange/white wire. Verify on your bike’s wiring diagram. Refer to Figure 1.
Refer to Figure 2 for the following steps.
2.4 - Cut a slit in the main harness sheath to expose more of the orange/white wire. Cut the orange/white wire where you have enough length on each end to work with.
2.5 - Strip approx ź inch of the insulation from both ends of the orange/white wire for soldering. Use a soldering iron to tin both ends of the wire.
2.6 - Slip a butt connector on the right-hand end of the wire. Crimp and solder the butt connector.
2.7 - Slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the right-hand end of the wire. Push the tubing out of the way. Do NOT heat it yet.
2.8 - Cut a short length of wire that will be used to connect to the passing lamp connector. Strip and tin both ends of this wire.
2.9 - Solder a female spade connector on one end of this new wire. Place heat shrink tubing over the connector and heat to shrink.
2.10 - Insert the new wire and the remaining orange/white aux circuit wire into the butt connector from step 2.6. Crimp and solder the butt connector. Pull the heat shrink tubing from step 2.7 over the butt connector and heat to shrink.
2.11 - Place a piece of heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to completely cover the power connector from the headlamp.
2.11 - Plug the new wire you added into the passing lamp switch connector.
2.12 - Turn on the passing lamp switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON then AUX to verify the passing lamps are ON in both positions. Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2.13 - Tuck the wiring out of the way. Use tie wraps as needed.
2.14 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - FENDER LAMP CONNECTOR MOVE
Refer to Figure 1 for all steps.
3.1 - Remove or reposition the gas tank to access the wiring harness on the left side of the bike. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before.
3.2 - Locate and disconnect the fender lamp connector which should be a two pin AMP connector with orange/white and black wires. The orange/white wire runs to a second AMP connector attached to the main harness. Disconnect his connector.
3.3 - Remove the pins with the orange/white wire from both AMP connectors. Refer to the separate tech tip article on how to remove the pins.
3.4 - Remove the orange/wire from the AMP connector pins and replace with a longer length of wire. Pry the crimped section of the pins apart with a small jeweler’s screw driver or similar tool. Cut the wire from the pins. Strip approx 1/8 inch of the insulation from both ends of the orange/white wire for soldering. Use a soldering iron to tin both ends of the wire. Place the tinned end of the wire into the crimp section of each pin. Use needle nose pliers to recrimp the pins onto the new wire. Solder the wire to the pins. Reinsert the pins into the AMP connectors.
3.5 - Cut a 1 to 2 inch slit in the wiring sheath containing the black wire on the 2 pin AMP connector. Pull the black wire out of the sheath along this slit.
3.6 - Reconnect both AMP connectors.
3.7 - Turn the ignition switch to ON to verify the fender lamp is working.
3.8 - Tuck the fender lamp connector in next to the frame where it will be accessible with the gas tank in place.
3.9 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank.
ALL DONE!
FIGURE 1
FIGURE 2