I've never seen a spark plug break like that. I just put my plugs in hand tight and a barely a wee smidge more and have never had a problem.

If you have not started the bike, you can remove the filter and look for the other seal stuck to the mounting base. You did put a little oil inside the filter as well, to help get oil flow going as quick as possible??

I've seen this in auto shop before, a kid put a new on one and the old seal was still there. Leaks like a sieve when you start the engine.

Good luck, and step away from that torque wrench.

John

 

haha yeah apparently. I know the filter was hand tight, but all the vids I watched used torque wrenches.

Live and learn right...just hoping it doesn't cost a small fortune to fix

 

Good luck.

I'd bet the original oil filter gasket stuck to the case so when you installed the new filter it went on top of the old gasket. As above if not started yet should be easy enough to remove the old gasket and reuse the new filter and gasket and not get a leak. Else just the cost of a new filter and another quart of oil.

The way the plug broke I think you got lucky.
Because of your comments, take it to a professional mechanic. He might get lucky and it will EZ-Out with no issues of fragments or striping, so your lesson learned won't be that expensive. Else, yes it may be a "head off" repair again because of fragments and or a Heli-coil.

Again best advise here is have someone with experience repair your spark plug issue.

 

Yeah I'm going to get it towed to a shop.

I just found the old filter and now see the gasket, looked and felt like it was all one part of the filter when there was a little oil left on it. Kind of blended in with the all black filter.
But I also don't remember there being a channel for it to fit in the new one, but was still super pissed about the spark plug, so wasn't really thinking clearly.

Does the one from Harley have the o-ring gasket in it already?

 

your best best is to have a shop do the plug repair (because of your lack of experience )...but if you decide to try to get it out, first I would not worry about getting pieces in the cylinder, because I am sure some pieces have already fallen in there...seeing that you used never seize on the plug it will probably come out pretty easy..first I would find a chisel or even a Phillips screwdriver that will fit tight in the hole of the spark plug, put the tool in place and give it a gentle tap to just seat it in the hole and then see if you can just thread the piece of plug out (you may need to grab the tool with a pair of channel locks or if the shank on the tool is square a adjustable wrench,,I am betting that it will screw right out...if that doesn't work buy a backout tool and try that (either of those tools won't make it any harder for a shop to get the plug out if it doesn't work)...the proper size backout will only fit about 1/3-1/2 of the tool into the hole (the larger the backout the better, as it is less likely to break when you try and twist the plug out)...after you have it out get out your handy dandy shop vac or even a home vac with a hose attachment and rig it up so that you can put a piece of automotive vacuum on the end about 1.5 feet long (duct tape will prolly work) thread the vacuum hose into the spark plug hole and turn on the vacuum cleaner and move the small hose all around the inside of the cylinder to suck up all the broken pieces of spark plug, if you have a compressor you can shoot air in the hole at the same time to move the pieces around...get a small bright flash light and a inspection mirror, hold them over the hole (after you pull out the hose) and check all around in there to make sure you got all the pieces...just take your time and you should be fine...also if your shop vac has "blow" hole that you can stick the vac. hose in you can reverse the process and blow the crap out of the hole..if you are lucky and the exhaust valve is open a lot of the crap will prolly blow out of it...

 

looking at the picture again, I see that part of the plug insulator may still be in the hole and laying inside of the plug base...before you try to remove the plug base try sucking out the piece of plug insulator with the shop vac, with the small hose attached...hell, you might just be able to hold the end of the small hose against the piece of insulator and suck on the other end and get enough vacuum to pull it out....I say its worth a try...good luck

 

Whats up with those plugs, they look rusty and old. they cant be new. if you messed that up you better not even think about remove the heads.

 

Your picture look more like a troll working on post count. But just in case, learning certain basics are even hard out of a good manual. Have it towed to the dealer and let them service it. Anyone who lacks the knowledge that all a plug needs is a little tug to tighten would create a disaster trying to fix it now. Sometimes the filter gasket sticks on the engine and pulls off the filter. All manuals say to check surface before replacing filter. Could have stuck and then fallen down. Keep your day job and take a automotive class at the local vocational school. Not trying to be a jerk. (guess that's hard to see but anyhow) That's what I did 50+ years ago and it worked for me.

 

Yes it does. Good idea from mkfikser about trying to extract the porcelain piece with a shop vac. You might be able to wedge a large flat screwdriver in and turn the threaded part out slowly.

John

 

thanks mrfikser, that's pretty much what they guy at the shop told me. Said to put grease in it to hold the broken piece that could be in it, use and extractor then vaccuum out the stuff that fell in, but make sure one of the valves is open.

But I think I'm going to let them handle it, don't want to mess it up anymore then it already is.