06xl1200 came with no security system (TSSM); just a simple TSM as oem. key > ignition - All running lights operate fine, turn signals and/or flashers do nothing. Once in while.... key > ignition: all 4 turn signals flash 4-5 times then fronts go into running light mode, backs stay off.

Did Diagnostics. all codes cleared except for U1097 under "S" (TSM). (Loss of Speedo Serial Data: Carb, or EFI, or to ECM, or TSM/TSSM).

Error being generated from (or detected at) pn 68920-01D (TSM-Z module).

Tried to "reset" TSM : While Run=Off, 1) Ignition - on>off>on>off>on
2) press L turn twice : Does nothing

Tried pressing L turn 2, 3, and 4 times (for different durations): nothing. Same results when done with R turn. Same when pressing L&R together (hazzards) 2, 3, 4 times. I got no response from any signal light during standard TSM "reset" and my "fishing" TSM reset. And also tried incrementally skipping steps to induce a reaction of some sorts: Nothing

Having signals flash 4-5 times at start, even though they come on seemingly at random, makes me think wiring to signals is OK. So if wiring is good, signal generator must be toast. Is this a reasonable conclusion?

I must have put this new tank on, and taken it off, 200 times while doing the necessary relocation re-fitments. And of course I forgot to pull the 30 Amp fuse once; and saw little sparks fly from bare twisted wire connections in the front turn wire trunk, and/or the head light trunk. A number of hot wires could have shorted to ground (back bone frame), or could have shorted with the other trunk's ground(s), or shorted within its own trunk's ground. I would say that would be my bone-head moment that potentially could have caused damage to something.

In my defense: my new tank test fitting procedure was done correctly (I pulled fuse) 199 times.

After searching and re-searching this and the xl forum, it appears that the 4-5 flashes that occur after key> IGNITION, usually means a short or maybe an open circuit, or a bad ( dirty ) connection in wiring to lights/sigs. I have seen this reported in different HD models.

Do HD dealers have TSM testers that instantly show a good/no good status without going through that lengthy breakout box Trouble Shoot procedure ?

The other question is about the "reset" procedure. Does this work equally for both TSM's and TSSM's?

Addition info: yellow engine and red key lights come on for 4 seconds after key > ignition. Then they go out for 4 seconds. Then the red key comes back on for four seconds, then it goes out. I think each light doing one 4 second run is normal, not two runs.

I am wondering if a toasted TSM could be causing this error code. Or maybe its a bad data link wire that is not allowing the TSM to function properly. The 2nd option just seems way less likely.

Any help or attempt at helping is gladly appreciated. If its a quick free test at dealer, I'll pull TSM tonight; and have it checked tomorrow. If not, I will go out with meter and test light to triple check for shorts/opens, while waiting for a replacement TSM to arrive in a few days.

Sorry about length of post, but I tried to give all relevant info that I could offer for others in similar predicament in future - Rick

 

Update: charged on tender all night. key> on = the yellow engine and red key lights on speedo lit up and went away after 4 seconds. red key did not re-appear after 4 more seconds . did diagnostics. No error codes present !

Tried TSM reset . no response .

Tried cranking it over = it cranked over but the speedo backlight and display went out

key> off .... key on.... red key light re-appeared 8 seconds after key turn. It went out 4 seconds later. key>off

Ran diagnostic = DTC U 1097 under "S" re-appeared again. cleared it. ran diagnostic = error free. ( red key comes on only once for 4 seconds at key turn)

Will let charge overnight. will remake all connections, and test all handle bar switches 1st thing tomorrow, then give TSM reset another try. Hopefully speedo will stay on during and after cranking bike over, and maybe this will not cause that DTC to re-appear again.

So MY red key only appears a second time for four seconds when there are error codes present. This bike is carbed and equipped with an oem TSM. (not tssm)

 

Did a little more testing this afternoon. If run switch = "OFF", then Ignition Key is turned "ON", yellow engine light stays on, then 8 seconds after key turn, all 4 turn signal bulbs blink four times.

Turn key "OFF" , switch to "RUN", Turn key "ON".......returned back to normal sequence.

So I guess four blinks means I forgot to set run switch to "ON" before turning key to "ON"

 

Took out battery and had it load tested at Advance Auto Parts for free. They said 93% good. Put it back in, cleared DTC's, cranked bike over a few times= speedo back light is now staying on, No red key after initial 4 second "lamp test". No DTC's present. OK... at least I THINK I'm getting closer. Tried TS's= nothing. Tried TSM reset. Nothing. Fingers got too cold to work for over 15 minutes. Newly noticed no horn or brake lights. Called it a day with positive outlook.

Got some F4 tape, and 1) aim to strip all sheathing from wires starting at handlebars and working my way back; to inspect each wire for nicks or pinches. 2) Aim to remove wires from Deutsche connectors, to have easy access to pins for switch testing. 3) check each wire for continuity from connectors back to respective source. Got some 40* weather to work with all day tomorrow. Meter, 12v test light, alligator clip leads, schematic diagram, F4 tape, and zip ties, are ready to spring into action at day break. My Plan is to eliminate faulty wiring as the possible cause; while I'm still waiting for a new TSM unit to be delivered.

Going to sleep on the idea of eliminating all connectors that live under tank by cutting off terminals, extending each wire one foot, making a coil for each set and stashing each coil either under ICM unit under seat or in handle bar riser. I would prefer to cut and re-solder wires that I can easily get to in the event of a future problem and/or change; over having to remove tank just to disconnect connectors that are not easily accessible.

I already changed out bars, switch housings, grips, and mirrors with led signals, last year; (also run wires inside of bars) and I'm very happy with the setup and it ran fine, so nothing is going to get changed for years, if ever. So why have connectors that may cause future problems, located in the worst possible place?

Eventually (not this season), all those wires are going to be run inside the backbone (a very solid and protective conduit already running along the wiring route), And all those wires will terminate at connectors housed inside of handlebar riser. So adding a foot now gets me closer to that future goal.