Progressive shocks with lowering blocks??
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Nashville
Progressive shocks with lowering blocks??
I've got a 2014 XL1200X and I'm wanting to lower the back a bit. The stock suspension is 11" and while not perfect, the ride is good enough for me. I was planning to get some 11" 412s or 12.5" 412 cruise shocks (sit like 11.5", but a better quality spring I believe) and use 1" lowering blocks. I know the lowering blocks make the bike ride worse, but I'm assuming that it will still result in a better ride than the stock suspension. I contacted progressive to ask for advice but they replied and said you can not put lowering blocks on a bike with their shocks without doing damage to the bike and/or shocks. I've seen guys post on here that they do this exact setup so I'm just wondering if anyone can confirm one way or another? Should also mention that the tire rubbing inside the fender won't be a concern as we'll be making a custom fender for this.
Also, if this really isn't possible with progressive shocks, can anyone suggest an aftermarket shock/lowering block combo that results in as good or better a ride than the stock 11" shocks but lower?
Thanks.
Also, if this really isn't possible with progressive shocks, can anyone suggest an aftermarket shock/lowering block combo that results in as good or better a ride than the stock 11" shocks but lower?
Thanks.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,774
Likes: 105
From: Houston, Texas
I've got a 2014 XL1200X and I'm wanting to lower the back a bit. The stock suspension is 11" and while not perfect, the ride is good enough for me. I was planning to get some 11" 412s or 12.5" 412 cruise shocks (sit like 11.5", but a better quality spring I believe) and use 1" lowering blocks. I know the lowering blocks make the bike ride worse, but I'm assuming that it will still result in a better ride than the stock suspension. I contacted progressive to ask for advice but they replied and said you can not put lowering blocks on a bike with their shocks without doing damage to the bike and/or shocks. I've seen guys post on here that they do this exact setup so I'm just wondering if anyone can confirm one way or another? Should also mention that the tire rubbing inside the fender won't be a concern as we'll be making a custom fender for this.
Also, if this really isn't possible with progressive shocks, can anyone suggest an aftermarket shock/lowering block combo that results in as good or better a ride than the stock 11" shocks but lower?
Thanks.
Also, if this really isn't possible with progressive shocks, can anyone suggest an aftermarket shock/lowering block combo that results in as good or better a ride than the stock 11" shocks but lower?
Thanks.
I have almost new set of chrome Progressive 430 shocks with both heavy duty and regular springs up for sale. Less then 400 miles on them, just too low for me on the 1200 Custom.
I can let.them.go for $300+ shipping.
PM if you're interested.
Last edited by Guzzi; Mar 23, 2015 at 08:24 AM.
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From: Bedford UK
Personally I would never use lowering blocks, they're a bandaid too far IMHO. Quite obviously a lot of owners use them, just as they do lots of other things that others of us wouldn't! If you want shorter shocks then buy them to whatever length you want. Within reason the more you pay the better the quality of ride you will get.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Nashville
You can put lowering blocks with any shock. What Progressive told you was more for liability reasons if a problem arose.
I have almost new set of chrome Progressive 430 shocks with both heavy duty and regular springs up for sale. Less then 400 miles on them, just too low for me on the 1200 Custom.
I can let.them.go for $300+ shipping.
PM if you're interested.
I have almost new set of chrome Progressive 430 shocks with both heavy duty and regular springs up for sale. Less then 400 miles on them, just too low for me on the 1200 Custom.
I can let.them.go for $300+ shipping.
PM if you're interested.
That's what I kinda thought about the liability. What length are your shocks you're selling?
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
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From: Nashville
Personally I would never use lowering blocks, they're a bandaid too far IMHO. Quite obviously a lot of owners use them, just as they do lots of other things that others of us wouldn't! If you want shorter shocks then buy them to whatever length you want. Within reason the more you pay the better the quality of ride you will get.
That's what I had planned to do at first, get 10" or 10.5" shocks, every review I saw said they rode worse than stock shocks. So my thinking was get a high quality shock and lower it, but do you (or anyone else) know of a high quality 10.5" shock that isn't gonna ride worse than stock? And just fyi, I'm 180lbs and my wife is 130lbs and we ride two up often, I'm going to make a king queen seat once done with the fender, so that should help our backs some. And planning to upgrade the fork springs as well.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,774
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From: Houston, Texas
Coming with both sets of springs would be a big plus for two up riding
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That's what I had planned to do at first, get 10" or 10.5" shocks, every review I saw said they rode worse than stock shocks. So my thinking was get a high quality shock and lower it, but do you (or anyone else) know of a high quality 10.5" shock that isn't gonna ride worse than stock? And just fyi, I'm 180lbs and my wife is 130lbs and we ride two up often, I'm going to make a king queen seat once done with the fender, so that should help our backs some. And planning to upgrade the fork springs as well.
The reason lowering blocks can be a bad idea is that your shock has the chance to compress to the point of the fender hitting the tire as well as components like your swing arm or belt hitting things they shouldn't. Tire and fender contact can rip out your wiring that runs under there as well as lock up your wheel and damage the tire. When mounted correctly your shock will "bottom out" to avoid this. That fail-safe is gone with lowering blocks. Again, with a passenger the risk is muck greater.
Short shocks are never going to perform as well as taller shocks period. Gotta pick your priority. Low style but harsh (especialy 2 up) vs Performance and comfort.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
Burly has a Slammer series shock that is 10.5 inches.
Last edited by Guzzi; Mar 23, 2015 at 10:58 AM.
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Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Nashville
Great info, let me ask this:
Compared to my 11" stock shocks, how would 11" or 11.5" progressive shocks lowered 1" perform? How about 10.5" burly slammers? Cause like I said, I'm ok with the stock shocks, just don't want it to be any worse.
Compared to my 11" stock shocks, how would 11" or 11.5" progressive shocks lowered 1" perform? How about 10.5" burly slammers? Cause like I said, I'm ok with the stock shocks, just don't want it to be any worse.
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I'd say 11" progressives will be better than your 11" stock (if you get the standard rate springs - you are way too light for the "HD" springs). But I'd skip lowering it with blocks. Burly does make 10.5, but I do not consider them "high quality", maybe someone with their slammer kit can chime in. I'd imagine at 10.5 they are worse than stock and I've heard people who own them remark to that effect.
I'd say you are safer with 10.5 Burly vs lowering blocks with 11" progressives, but likely rougher riding. I personally think lowering blocks are a bad idea especially with a passenger.
I know many here use and like lowering blocks, although I'm not sure even they would recommend it with a regular passenger. To me it's not worth the risk. Insufficient absorption in a suspension isn't just a literal pain in the backside, it unsettles the entire chassis and screws the handling characteristics and traction as the tire will actuslly lose contact and "chatter" over rough patches. Ive had it happen in turns and its not fun. Too soft or walllowy suspension is equally hazardous as it can creat a pogo effect that throws your handling out of whack.
If a lowered look is really important to you I'd recommend 11" or 11.5" progressives mounted to the factory points.
I'd say you are safer with 10.5 Burly vs lowering blocks with 11" progressives, but likely rougher riding. I personally think lowering blocks are a bad idea especially with a passenger.
I know many here use and like lowering blocks, although I'm not sure even they would recommend it with a regular passenger. To me it's not worth the risk. Insufficient absorption in a suspension isn't just a literal pain in the backside, it unsettles the entire chassis and screws the handling characteristics and traction as the tire will actuslly lose contact and "chatter" over rough patches. Ive had it happen in turns and its not fun. Too soft or walllowy suspension is equally hazardous as it can creat a pogo effect that throws your handling out of whack.
If a lowered look is really important to you I'd recommend 11" or 11.5" progressives mounted to the factory points.