"cluck/pop" from steering area
"cluck/pop" from steering area
Last night i noticed a "clunking pop" in the triple tree/ streeting area (im sure theres a better word) when turn my bars from the extreme left (resting on jiffy stand position). I was able to consistently duplicate the noise with the bike upright.
I did some googling and found folks saying to tighten the tree bolt but, they were all experiencing their clunk while riding, braking, and hitting bumps. Typical weight shift situations, and most were softails a geezer glides.
Any advice is welcome
I did some googling and found folks saying to tighten the tree bolt but, they were all experiencing their clunk while riding, braking, and hitting bumps. Typical weight shift situations, and most were softails a geezer glides.
Any advice is welcome
Glossary...
EDIT:
i found it in the service manual. 1.18- steering head bearings
Last edited by cvaria; Apr 2, 2015 at 02:37 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,882
Likes: 83
More than likely the two riser bolts on the bottom of your handlbars. The two bolts that secure the lower riser to triple tree. I torque all steering components every season. Unless you got LOTS of miles on it i doubt its the steering head bearing adjustment. You will get steering vibration when this is out of spec.
More than likely the two riser bolts on the bottom of your handlbars. The two bolts that secure the lower riser to triple tree. I torque all steering components every season. Unless you got LOTS of miles on it i doubt its the steering head bearing adjustment. You will get steering vibration when this is out of spec.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
Pick up a mechanics stethoscope and have somebody make the noise while you listen around the steering head and such. You'd be surprised how well you could pinpoint noises with those things and there isn't much space to cover on a Sportster. I do believe Harbor Freight carries them in the automotive section for a few bucks. You could also use a long screwdriver or a cut length of heater hose; personally, I'd just spend the $5 and get the stethoscope. They can be used with or without the probe.
Last edited by starforbrian; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:35 PM.
More than likely the two riser bolts on the bottom of your handlbars. The two bolts that secure the lower riser to triple tree. I torque all steering components every season. Unless you got LOTS of miles on it i doubt its the steering head bearing adjustment. You will get steering vibration when this is out of spec.
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Pick up a mechanics stethoscope and have somebody make the noise while you listen around the steering head and such. You'd be surprised how well you could pinpoint noises with those things and there isn't much space to cover on a Sportster. I do believe Harbor Freight carries them in the automotive section for a few bucks. You could also use a long screwdriver or a cut length of heater hose; personally, I'd just spend the $5 and get the stethoscope. They can be used with or without the probe.
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More than likely the two riser bolts on the bottom of your handlbars. The two bolts that secure the lower riser to triple tree. I torque all steering components every season. Unless you got LOTS of miles on it i doubt its the steering head bearing adjustment. You will get steering vibration when this is out of spec.
Thank you sir!
Yes! this was the problem. clunk / pop is gone.
in my 2008 service manual: HANDLEBARS 2.27
i removed, cleaned, applied blue loctite, and replaced the bolts one at a time. i torqued them down to 40 f/lbs.
Figure 2-156
All Except XL 883C, XL 1200C, XL 1200L and
XL 1200N
1. See Figure 2-156. If lower handlebar clamps (14, 18) were
removed, secure clamps to upper fork bracket (17) with
bolts (16) and washers (15). Finger tighten bolts only at
this time. Make sure wiring harnesses are routed between
lower handlebar clamps.
2. Slide right handlebar control housing and throttle assembly
(7, 9, 12) onto right end of handlebar (8). Position
handlebar on lower handlebar clamps.
3. Place upper handlebar clamp (2) in position and thread
the two rear screws (3) in place.
4. XL 1200R models: place spacers (6) over two front
mounting holes of upper handlebar clamp.
5. Position instrument bracket (19) over two front holes of
upper handlebar clamp and thread two screws (4) and
washers (5) in place.
6. See Figure 2-159. Adjust handlebars to desired position
and tighten rear screws (3) to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm)
until cast-in spacers of upper clamp contact lower clamps.
7. Finally, tighten front screws (4) to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4
Nm).
8. See Figure 2-156. Tighten lower handlebar clamp bolts
(16) to 30-40 ft-lbs (40.7-54.3 Nm).
XL 1200N
1. See Figure 2-156. If lower handlebar clamps (14, 18) were
removed, secure clamps to upper fork bracket (17) with
bolts (16) and washers (15). Finger tighten bolts only at
this time. Make sure wiring harnesses are routed between
lower handlebar clamps.
2. Slide right handlebar control housing and throttle assembly
(7, 9, 12) onto right end of handlebar (8). Position
handlebar on lower handlebar clamps.
3. Place upper handlebar clamp (2) in position and thread
the two rear screws (3) in place.
4. XL 1200R models: place spacers (6) over two front
mounting holes of upper handlebar clamp.
5. Position instrument bracket (19) over two front holes of
upper handlebar clamp and thread two screws (4) and
washers (5) in place.
6. See Figure 2-159. Adjust handlebars to desired position
and tighten rear screws (3) to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm)
until cast-in spacers of upper clamp contact lower clamps.
7. Finally, tighten front screws (4) to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4
Nm).
8. See Figure 2-156. Tighten lower handlebar clamp bolts
(16) to 30-40 ft-lbs (40.7-54.3 Nm).
Last edited by cvaria; Apr 4, 2015 at 09:30 AM.
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