Guys with the Power Vision tuners:

Why are you wasting time waiting around for "tweeked" MAP's that may or may not help, when you can very easily perform an "Auto Tune Basic" autotune session with your Power Vision tuner via a 30 minute/mile ride where you run the bike through its paces (perform all possible conditions, i.e., ride normal, accelerate to the rev limiter in all gears, lolly gag it around town simulating traffic, etc.) that will create a MAP specifically catered to your specific exhaust and intake mods or lack thereof, which when you're done with the run you can then save and flash to your ECM and rip a$$??? Some guys even take that first autotune MAP and use it as a foundation for yet another autotune run, to further refine the MAP...

Outside of the PV tuners great attributes as a flash tuner with a nice touch screen display allowing you to display most any value it's monitoring if you leave it attached and wish to do so, the Auto Tune feature is THE most important and useful feature, because it learns your riding style, reads how your engine is currently responding, and calculates MAP values that provides your engine with the proper A/F ratio and therefore proper combustion for optimum power throughout the power band.

I believe that the only thing better for the $$ would be spending the coin on the "Auto Tune Pro" addition to the PV tuner, a dedicated ECM replacement with wide band O˛ sensors, or a DYNO tune session with a qualified technician.

Below is a video from Dynojet showing the very simple procedure for an auto tune basic run, 'simple as pie:


=8^)

 

First post here. Figured I'd throw in my experience to the OP's question since I went through the same thing. Added Short Shots to my completely stock 2015 48. Now, the stock tune was already doo doo. In fact, this is my first Harley and wondered what all the hoopla was about Harleys after having minimal time with this new bike as it didn't run smooth at all in stock config and also after the new exhaust. So I decided to get the V&H Fuelpak FP3. This tuner assumes you already have a high flow intake. I didn't. I still have the stock intake. Loaded the tune. It ran considerably better but still had some flat spots. I ran an auto tune for about a 40 minute ride and then I flashed it. Now it runs smooth as butter. No flat spots and idles and just runs overall exactly the way i hoped it would. That was $350 well spent.

 

Thanks for the responses and it looks like I will be researching some tuners. I currently run the Cobra PowrPro on my M109R and I am extremely happy with it as it auto tunes and it takes away all the guess work with maps and dynos. Don't know however if they offer it for the Iron. Does anyone know if it is available?

 

Not sure I understand the comment about wasting time waiting for tweaked MAPs?

UC2006 has no Ox sensors so PV's AT isn't an option. I could add the bungs with the wide band sensor kit or get 2007 header pipes that have Ox sensors in them...neither of these do I find necessary.

My understanding is that having a good or great base line MAP is what you need to start with for any AT session to be effective. On my Sportie 2013 yea is has the narrow band Ox sensors. I've run AT more than a few times. And still I prefer the custom MAP that FM sent me for that bike. Temps are lower with their MAP vs. what the AT adjusted. I ran at least 6 different AT's sessions over the course of 100 miles on various days. This was using the custom Sportie MAP they sent as the base as my start MAP. While the MAP may have wasted less gas after each AT session and reflash...I prefer seeing the engine and head temp lower. Plus it pulled higher gears better with the first custom MAP they sent vs. what AT ended up with. I may have lost 4 MPG total as the custom MAP is likely richer. There was close to a 30 deg. F difference. I was seeing 389 eng temps running the final AT MAP and when I went back to the custom MAP it dropped dramatically to 357 deg F. Yes same route to work and very similar weather conditions as well.

Don't get me wrong the PV is a great tool and tuner. Both my bikes are running much better than they were before. Plus I'm learning what to tweak on my own thru conversations with FM and comparing delta's between MAP's on my bikes. Yea, I like data and when I can feel a difference and back it up on a table/chart it augments the understanding of what is actually going on with the bikes.

 

GMRO, I should have explained a little better by what I meant. Many of those who purchase the PV tuner utilize the MAP that was either provided by Dynojet or preloaded by a vendor for their reported combination of exhaust and intake, which is almost always a "generally close" MAP (case in point: Fuel Moto had no MAP listed for my specific exhaust/intake combination, yet they provided me with one) and will make the bike run ok or better than it was without the tune, but when issues of decel popping come up, instead of running auto tune (or tweeking it themselves) they send a request to the vendor with their complaint, time elapses, they get a revised MAP, they flash it, and maybe, just maybe, it's an improvement, and if not, it's back to the drawing board. The time going back and forth was what I was refering to as "...wasting time." Users have the ability to tweek their own MAPs, but I suppose to some this is quite the daunting proposition.

True, having a great "base line" MAP is important as a starting point, and this will be my starting point today. I have fresh plugs to install, and even though I currently have no issues whatsoever with performance, decel poping, etc., I'll be running a 'couple auto tune sessions this afternoon built off of my current MAP just as an experiment to observe and feel if any positive and or desireable affects will be produced, as my bike has had over 7,000 miles put on it since the current tune was introduced. After doing so, I'll keep an eye on the conditions of the plugs, keep a check on fuel economy, and lastly cylinder temps to see if any changes need to done or if it would be apropos to revert back to my original tune.

I'm all for better performamce and cooler cylinder and exhaust temps, which can only be obtained at the cost of fuel economy, which I'm not the least bit concerned about. And the PV tuner isn't designed for fuel economy, it's designed to offer the proper A/F ratio's to get the most out of your engine in its current state.

Cheers!

=8^)

 

DrewBone,

AGREED 110%!

As said I really love the PV and its capabilities. Its a very powerful tool.

GOOD LUCK with your tuning. And thanks for the clarification.

Ride safe bro!

 

Thanks for the reply :^)

I changed out my plugs early this afternoon; both showed color indications of a slight "rich but good" condition. The front cylinder gapped out at about .044" and the rear at .043", both being really close if not at the recommended large side of the factory spec of 0.038" - 0.043".

My auto tune ride lasted a good 45 minutes (a little bit longer than I planned, because when I arrived at the gas station I quickly realized that I had left my wallet and money on the table in my living room), and as I approached my home, I pulled in the shade, exited out of the auto tune session, saved the new MAP, loaded it, then went out for a 'couple slices of pizza. The throttle response was a bit smoother, with rheostat controlled eletric motor deceleration with no noise whatsoever. I'll try to run the snot out of it with this new MAP and get some miles on her then pull the plugs and have a looks-see for signs of anything going awry ;^)

Hopefully it will just continue to run like a symphony of steel, a real pleasure to ride!

=8^)
aka Andy

 

Don't know about the Cobra PowrPro, but below is a link to a thread with a good overview of many of the popular tuners. Should help you short cut some on your research.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...uning-etc.html

btw, as many have said, it is not needed, but you will see a significant benefit by doing something to richen up the stock lean condition.