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Sure, I understand you point. But my bags are a permanent fixture on my bike and part of the paint scheme. My bike is lifted pretty high and I don't personally care for the look of the gap between the rear tire and fender. So the bags are also doing a good job of concealing that gap. I'm also trying to keep it as clean and simple as possible. In doing so I'm going to install a Run, Turn, Brake controller that will light the bags and taillight as running lights. All three lights will also work as brake lights. And still allow the bag lights to flash as signal lights. That's the plan anyway, we'll see how that works out.
Okay, received the drag specialties relocation kit....looks well made, but need to buy two socket allen head bolts to install the turn signals. I am assuming it is 5/16-24 fine thread.
Got one of the allen head bolts out of the turn signals but the other is a bitch to get out...frozen. I applied WD40 and let it sit overnight, applied brake cleaner to dissolve any corrosion. It is difficult because there is no leverage out of the housing and hanging from the wire. Any helpful hints, insight, tip, or tricks on how to get the bolt out? Here is the one that came out.
Always seem to encounter glitches when trying to get something done on the bike....sooo irritating. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hey there dude! Awesome job with this relocation. I'm about to do the same with my Dyna FXD. Just a quick question for ya, when you bought those 2 replacement socket head allen bolts, how long did you need to get? Not sure if I should get a half inch, inch, etc?
I'm about 99% sure that the FXD bullet turn signal is exactly the same as the sportster ones, so that shouldn't be a factor here.
Hey there dude! Awesome job with this relocation. I'm about to do the same with my Dyna FXD. Just a quick question for ya, when you bought those 2 replacement socket head allen bolts, how long did you need to get? Not sure if I should get a half inch, inch, etc?
I'm about 99% sure that the FXD bullet turn signal is exactly the same as the sportster ones, so that shouldn't be a factor here.
I bought 1/2 and 3/4" since I was not sure myself. The 1/2 was a little too short if you use a lock washer....so I used a 5/16-24 X 3/4" with a lock washer. My decision was based on the exposed thread of the original bolt i.e. the length that went into the turn signal and worked from there. The original bolt thread portion was about 3/8" in length. Someone else on here used a 1" which was perfect for him. Since there is no stopper in the turn signal and uses the signal casing to stop and tighten to the mount...you have some flexibility. Just make sure it is not too short so you can securely tighten the bolt and not too long that it interferes with the electrical in the signal...and be sure to use blue thread locker.
I bought 1/2 and 3/4" since I was not sure myself. The 1/2 was a little too short if you use a lock washer....so I used a 5/16-24 X 3/4" with a lock washer. My decision was based on the exposed thread of the original bolt i.e. the length that went into the turn signal and worked from there. The original bolt thread portion was about 3/8" in length. Someone else on here used a 1" which was perfect for him. Since there is no stopper in the turn signal and uses the signal casing to stop and tighten to the mount...you have some flexibility. Just make sure it is not too short so you can securely tighten the bolt and not too long that it interferes with the electrical in the signal...and be sure to use blue thread locker.
Brilliant. Thanks for the reply my friend! By the way, love the bagster Didn't know they did hard bags for the sporty's.
Glad to be of some assistance. That is why I am a member of the forum....a lot of knowledgeable people willing to help. I have a manual but can't beat the info your get here to validate or get opinions on how-to based on experience.
Glad to be of some assistance. That is why I am a member of the forum....a lot of knowledgeable people willing to help. I have a manual but can't beat the info your get here to validate or get opinions on how-to based on experience.
Totally!! Good luck finding step by step's on relocating these front turn signals. UNLESS you go with the Harley mounts, which look god awful in my opinion.
One last question - did you have to end up shortening your turn signal lines at all? or did you just reroute them so they sat correctly with the rest of the wiring harness? That's the part i'm most leery on. I REALLY don't want to remove the tank and get at the connectors to shorten the wires. Not sure if you gotta do that on a sporty to get at the connectors, but you kinna do on a Dyna.
Totally!! Good luck finding step by step's on relocating these front turn signals. UNLESS you go with the Harley mounts, which look god awful in my opinion.
One last question - did you have to end up shortening your turn signal lines at all? or did you just reroute them so they sat correctly with the rest of the wiring harness? That's the part i'm most leery on. I REALLY don't want to remove the tank and get at the connectors to shorten the wires. Not sure if you gotta do that on a sporty to get at the connectors, but you kinna do on a Dyna.
Yup got help from those responding to this thread...all done with the relocation. Pics are in a previous post on this thread. Moved on to replacing my rear brake pedal which is on another thread....love this forum!
No need to lift or remove tank. Right side routed and zip tied along the brake line behind the fork. Need to lift the left headlight/visor to get the left side wire to reach the triple tree and hide the slack. Of course, I am referring to a sporty...not sure about a Dyna.
I relocated my front turn signals on my 48 today.. Thankfully no kit or hassle, took about 5 min.. Love having them down the forks instead of right under the bars..
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Didn't know they did hard bags for the sporty's.
