I had to change my stator last week, and while I was in that far I went ahead and replaced the stock clutch with an energy one with 15% stronger diaphram and extra plate. My rivets were very loose, it was about to go. The new clutch pulls SO much stronger, it's night and day difference, but I'm having an issue shifting into 4th and 5th gears sometimes- the first attempt won't go in, but the second always does. It happens about 1 time in 10 shifting from 3rd to 4th and about 1 time in 5 shifting from 4th to 5th. I'm having to consciously hold the clutch in until I feel the gear change in case it doesn't happen the first time.. it sucks.

I've checked the primary chain tension. I've verified the proper primary oil level. I've readjusted the clutch. The instructions that came with the energy one said specifically NOT to use synthetic gear oil.. and since I always have in the past, and had already bought it, I used the same Mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 I've always used. Is it possible that dino gear oil would solve the problem? What else could it be?

 

I have an energy one clutch with the 15% stronger plate. I use Red Line 75w90 gl5 synthetic gear oil in mine. I have no shifting issues. mine shifts very precise. My clutch locks up really well. There people on here that have used Mobil 1 75w90 with the energy one clutch for 100,000 miles with no problems. I don't know what to tell you.

 

Energy One said, quote> synthetics "may" cause the clutch to slip, they didn't say anything about dragging.

 

hate to bear bad news , but the clutch has nothing to do with shifting.


slack in the shift dogs allow them to move.
blip throttle and you have clutchless shifting.


jack up rear wheel, engine off, hand shift through the gears while bumping the rear wheel back and forth to get slack in the shift dogs.
you may have a shifter fork, shift drum or something else causing your problem.
Hope this helps

 

Seems to shift fine by hand; it shifts fine 90% of the time when I'm riding. I understand what you're saying about the problem I'm describing having nothing to do with the clutch.. but I wasn't having the issue before the clutch change, so that's what I figured was suspect.

 

Sporty's clutch setting with the left side puller are of course different back of then my right side pusher. Is the setting different for you new clutch then the original Harley clutch.

Not trying to make this an oil thread but I would not run that 75-90W Synthetic GL5 which has an EP additive. I know it's a synthetic and no where near as thick as 90W gear and is perfectly fine in a Toyota truck transmission but not in your clutch gear box.

A Harley does need a little oil drag between drive and driven plates to make shifting smooth but I can notice when my bike is cold what you say. It doe not miss a shift unless I get real sloppy but ever now and then when cold, I will here it clack, come off clutch and on throttle and hear that extra little clack as it sucks it in all the way since I think there is the slightest toe angle on the dogs on the side of the gears.

I would put Formual + in there since it's a non detergent straight weight gear oil with no EP additive. GL4 apx 50W. That is at least 1/2 the drip rate to empty a container which I think is what they use to determine that number.

 

Absent any other ideas, I'm inclined to try the oil you suggest.

 

Usually, that is the last thing I thing is the problem except in your case with a Sporty is the clutch windage has to be a lot plus since all the gears are always free spinning with of course the two drive and driven that are slid together an in the upper range I think are spinning the slowest so if you shift fast have a slightly greater chance to actual meet dog to face next to face between drive cavity. Somebody like Mom Baker may have a better tec opinion. It sure could be something else has broke since new clutch but you said it was fine. Have you ask the clutch manufacator?

 

Its what Red Line has tested in a Sportster trans and recommends.

75W90 is a 50 weight. Gear oil viscosity is measured different than motor oil.

There are people on here that have over 100,000 moles om 75W90 gl5 gear oil.

Here is Red Lines official response -

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in the shared Sportster primary/transmission the 75W90 is recommended, a product that has been used extensively and performs well.

The 75W90 is the product we have have used for a number of years with very good results in Sportster/Buell transmissions, matching the viscosity and type fluid called for.
The 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil is a lower viscosity than called for, the ShockProof gear oils can due to their unique characteristics could cause sticking of the Harley clutches.
The 75W90 would be preferred and recommended over 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil in these applications.

There can be issues with some GL-5 gear oils in certain applications. Some can be corrosive to brass, bronze or copper, not an issue with our GL-5 gear oils, they don’t cause corrosion, pitting or metal removal. In a synchro equipped transmission the friction modifiers contained in many gear oils can make them too slippery, though not the case in a motorcycle transmission with dog rings.


So if you want the right viscosity and don't want to worry about it damaging anything, go with Redline http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=133&pcid=4

https://bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/

 

Thought I'd post a follow up.. I figured this out. I had surgery in December on my ankle, and I don't have the full range of motion in my left ankle now. The problem goes away when I pick my whole foot up to upshift. I'm feeling pretty stupid for not realizing sooner but I didn't realize the range was affected until I actually checked versus the other foot. Anyway.. I'm glad it's not the bike.

I did come up with what I think is a viable solution - I ordered one of these from DK. Seems like that should take care of the problem.