ok bud

 

I don't think you understand the context here. The OP is asking about hoping up a brand new 883 with no miles on it. Its not ME who's the speed junkie or have testosterone problem. HE's already asking about dumping big bucks into "speed junkie" parts. I'm not dissing the 883. Its a fine bike. I'm simply questioning the motive. If he wanted more power,...the 1200 at same cost is the better choice.

As stated earlier, once I know more I can better give advice. Its his money. I'm just being curious.

 

I understand that concept but people don't usually buy brand new bikes to learn to wrench on.

He said he liked the 107 but it was too much power for a starter bike. I get that.
​​​​​
​So why is he trying to hop up an 883 out of the gate if power is a concern at this point? Just seems contradictory to me.

But I'm sure he has a plan. Just wondering what it is. Maybe some blunt opinion will be more beneficial to him than telling him all the "best" hop up parts to buy that will run $1500 and maybe add 10hp on a starter bike where he gets zero return
​​​​​ on those hop up parts.

 

I took a nap, had a snack, checked my IG and that guy still hadn't hit 103 yet. Will check back on him in a little bit.

 

Congrats, your bike looks great.

 

right, winner winner


but most of us did this at some point. I can't say that i ever did, i didnt really have the chance. But, thereare a ton of short shots and ugly silly air cleaners like hyper chargers out in the secondarymarket because of it. We'll have to see

would be best to just ride the bike around for a bit

 

That's a very cool looking bike. The dealer can download a map which will adjust the tune somewhat, but the general consensus is that's not a very good option. You could also have it dyno tuned, but that can be pricey and is only applicable to your bike in its current configuration.


You can get a pretty economical tuner like a FuelMoto Micro EFI, which has to stay attached to the bike. I believe most tuners are "married" to the bike, including some which don't need to stay attached, but you can't use them on more than one bike.

 

Welcome. Nice bike.


I'm 56 and an Iron 883 is my first motorcycle just purchased a few months ago. I'm lovin' it.

 

Ok... I'll throw in my 2 cents... Nothing better to do anyhow...

The guy says he's from Belgium. Only concern I would have about his plan is what impact it might have on warranty. If it impacts warranty, I might just wait until it expires. Don't know though what goes over there across the pond.

If the guy wants to forego - for whatever reason - a 1200 and get a 883 then fine. More power to him. Many have done the same. Many later do the 1200/1250 conversion (only problem with that, in my mind, might be the gearing on the 883).

In any case (leaving it stock or later getting the conversion), who wouldn't want to stick new pipes and intake on the bike? Most would I suspect. Does it really matter that you might only get a 10% bump out of it? Does it matter that it doesn't make economic sense? I say "no" to each question. Bikes are not an investment. They are toys and as soon as you buy one you might as well accept that you're flushing money down the toilet in certain respects. Those new pipes and intake will produce enjoyment/satisfaction in other ways than just raw performance gains. So I say go ahead and do it if he wants. He'll like the way the bike looks and sounds. There is value in that.

Only pipes in his list that I have experience with are the V&H Side Shots. It's a decent set of pipes with reasonable compromises.

To the OP: If you want to look at dyno results, instead of reading/listening to a bunch of dubious opinions, go to Hammer's website and look at some of the dyno results they produced...

http://www.hammerperf.com/ttxlexhaust.shtml

You'll note that they used the Patriot Defender (no longer available) as the standard that others were measured against. You'll see that the PD produces fairly flat torque and power curves with decent overall numbers. The V&H SS's have a (slightly) less flat curve down low - little dip attributed to reversion (if memory serves). You'll also note that when the power curves for both pipes are overlaid on each other, there isn't a significant (my opinion) difference between the two up until about 6200 RPM (which is near/bumping up against the the stock setting for the rev limiter). Torque wise, look at the numbers at each major division...

3500: V&H 72 Lb-Ft, PD 73 Lb-Ft
4000: V&H 74 Lb-Ft, PD 78 Lb-Ft
4500: V&H 80 Lb-Ft, PD 82 Lb-Ft
5000: V&H 84 Lb-Ft, PD 84 Lb-Ft
5500: V&H 86 Lb-Ft, PD 85 Lb-Ft
6000: V&H 84 Lb-Ft, PD 85 Lb-Ft

So why did I say to look at the major divisions? If you'll note - the horizontal axis settings are not the same on both graphs. The wider axis and earlier starting point on the V&H graph tends to exaggerate the dip - where had it been the same as the PD graph it would have stretched it out a little bit and lessened the visual impact. By looking at the major divisions you can see that there's only a significant difference at around 4000 rpms. How significant? Meh? Not much as far as I'm concerned. My bet - not enough that any butt dyno will tell the difference. The overlaid power curves tend to bare this out as well.

The V&H Side Shots are a nice looking, well made, and decent sounding set of pipes in my opinion. However, I have no doubt that they are probably a bitch to install (as noted on Hammer's website). I can confirm that the wide band O2 sensors are problematic to install on these pipes because of the bung location and angle (on the front cylinder), but it can be done. This may be something to consider if you should decide one day to go with a DJ Power Vision with Target Tune.

Roughly about right with that one I'd say.

Do you need a tuner...? The answer to that would be another long winded reply... So I'll just say a couple of things and leave it at that. If you don't care to learn what you need to know to do DIY tuning effectively with a tuner, then just skip it and find yourself a competent shop that can do your tune with a dyno. There is a learning curve with trying to DIY with a tuner. For example, "Auto" tuning isn't really tuning. It's an attempt the calibrate the VE tables. I'm not a subscriber to the notion that one can just simply download a canned map and get the best (or even good) results. In answer to the question about needing to keep the tuner hooked up the bike - the answer is no. It's not required. You can simply flash the new tune and disconnect. But again, I believe you either need to do the requisite homework or seek out a pro.

 

I've never seen so many people complain about somebody else buying an 883, and I hang out with all jap bike builders. The OP didn't ask if he should get a 1200, he's asking opinions on intake and exhaust, who cares where he spends his money. No matter what bike he gets, guess what he'll want to do first, you got it, intake and exhaust.

My only suggestion would be to may be look at something used, especially for a sportster. Other than that, most people aren't going to notice the "big" difference between a 2-1 or 2-2 exhaust, no matter what they say. Your best option is to get what looks and sounds good to you.