ADJ. pushrods
What Hammer Performance says.
Many shops will advise you at that point to change to adjustable pushrods. Not only will they ask you to fork over $100 for a set of adjustable pushrods, but they'll also inform you that you need a set of collapsible pushrod tubes to be able to make the adjustments, to the tune of another $150.
That's not only expensive, but it's also not a good thing to be doing, for a couple of reasons. Number one, an adjustable pushrod is by it's very design weaker at a given weight level than a fixed length pushrod. Number two, using collapsible pushrod covers creates more opportunities for leaks. Nevermind the hassle of adjusting them, or the possibility of one coming loose.
If you're using standard hydraulic lifters, you're far better off to simply buy a set of fixed length pushrods that are shorter than stock when using milled heads. They'll be stronger, less expensive, won't require adjustments, and won't create new risks. Hammer Performance offers some of the best pushrods on the market.
Really, the only case where adjustable pushrods make sense is when a travel limited lifter is being used, i.e. a solid or a Hydrosolid or stock lifters with travel limiting washers. These lifter designs require a precise setting of the pushrod length that can only be achieved with an adjustable. If you're using standard hydraulic lifters, save your money for things that matter.
Last edited by apache snow; Mar 3, 2018 at 08:40 PM.
What Hammer Performance says.
Many shops will advise you at that point to change to adjustable pushrods. Not only will they ask you to fork over $100 for a set of adjustable pushrods, but they'll also inform you that you need a set of collapsible pushrod tubes to be able to make the adjustments, to the tune of another $150.
That's not only expensive, but it's also not a good thing to be doing, for a couple of reasons. Number one, an adjustable pushrod is by it's very design weaker at a given weight level than a fixed length pushrod. Number two, using collapsible pushrod covers creates more opportunities for leaks. Nevermind the hassle of adjusting them, or the possibility of one coming loose.
If you're using standard hydraulic lifters, you're far better off to simply buy a set of fixed length pushrods that are shorter than stock when using milled heads. They'll be stronger, less expensive, won't require adjustments, and won't create new risks. Hammer Performance offers some of the best pushrods on the market.
Really, the only case where adjustable pushrods make sense is when a travel limited lifter is being used, i.e. a solid or a Hydrosolid or stock lifters with travel limiting washers. These lifter designs require a precise setting of the pushrod length that can only be achieved with an adjustable. If you're using standard hydraulic lifters, save your money for things that matter.
am looking to get more performance out of my valvetrain because I have no interest in a 1250 or 1275 , I like having 883cc so am only looking to gain a small amount of performance
they will not improve your bike's performance.
Last edited by cvaria; Mar 3, 2018 at 08:59 PM.
what's your opinion on tuning and dyno run's
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they will not improve your bike's performance.
cavaria am told you have seen bad dyno runs any advice
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i let the dealer do my dynos. and they weren't great. dealer redid them after me complaining. i was going have them re-dynod by a pro then decided not to, no real ROI. there's probably 10 more hp in the sporty and 5hp/5tq more in the other bike. is that worth $1500+ and a few days out of my life? not to me.
review these rthe results of various 883s here.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...ults-here.html
you will not get massive results. you will get a better/smoother running bike with a slight bump over stock. $400+ for that dyno vs ~$400 for a good tuner and a options later down the line.
not something to rush into. maybe take sometime and soak in the info here on the forums.
Last edited by cvaria; Mar 3, 2018 at 10:04 PM.






