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I have read that there is a way to maintain them (not perfect, but hey..) by changing the brake fluid, then riding the bike to activate the ABS a dozen times (on gravel or grass (rear) or dry pavement (front) then changing the fluid again. A pain but a lot less of a pain than dropping off the bike and paying $200.
Not recommending since I never go against the Holy Book. Just sayin. The repeated activation does draw some fluid in there.
I guess you were lucky then. The ABS module has valves inside it which, when they operate, open to release the hydraulic pressure on the caliper pistons, they then close again a fraction of a second later giving that on/off pulse braking action.
The problem with trying to bleed an ABS system is there is no way for the home mechanic to cause these valves to open, allowing him/her to bleed the complete brake system, (unlike the dealership who plug the bike in to the workshop computer which tells the ABS module to open them), so you can never be a 100% sure that you have FLUSHED ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE ENTIRE SYSTEM. got all the air out of the brake lines.
I have read that there is a way to maintain them (not perfect, but hey..) by changing the brake fluid, then riding the bike to activate the ABS a dozen times (on gravel or grass (rear) or dry pavement (front) then changing the fluid again. A pain but a lot less of a pain than dropping off the bike and paying $200.
Not recommending since I never go against the Holy Book. Just sayin. The repeated activation does draw some fluid in there.
It really is scandalous if dealers are charging $200 to do a flush. There is very little fluid in the pipes. If you had 20 feet of brake pipe in total it would hold approximately 1.5 US fluid ounces. I have already given my estimate for the job time.
There is a company out there that does a tool that doesn't marry to the bike. The OBDStar doesn't lock to a bike so if you get one it could be shared with friends.
I considered buying the tool, then using it and renting it out for a reasonable fee until the cost is recouped, then lending it out for the cost of shipping.
I had a minor leak at the rocker box, a common Sportster malfunction. Just to get an idea I called the dealer and asked for an estimate.. The guy pulled $600 out of his butt. I laughed and hung up, bought the James gasket set for $77 and did it myself. A minor pain but $600 was (IMO) way out of line. I just took a w.a.g. at the brake job charge. It may be less at some dealers.
Here's the OBDStar for Harleys I found. I read all through it and it will do the bleed on some models, not on others. I guess I would need to call and find out about my bike.
$350 https://www.obdstarstore.com/wholesa...c-scanner.html
They've been abusing ABS systems on cars since day 1. I don't have ABS on my bike ( mainly because I like to stop) but I doubt I'd freak out about bleeding it out.
In 50 years of riding, maybe 20 motorcycles I've never had one with ABS.
I just bought one with the ABS light on, previous owner says it's been on for the last 12 years.
He said he spent big bucks trying to track down why but never got an answer abd gave up on it.
Still had it bled by the dealer every couple years.
I guess you don't miss what you never had.
I just replaced the front brake line and got air in the abs pump so its not operational, I bled the pipes and the brake leaver is very hard to push and if I press it, it locks the wheel, however got air in the abs pump and its not working.
Is there a cable I can get and install a software on the laptop which is pretty cheap or I have to buy these $200 kits to be able to do that?
Buy an ITM HD2 tool that will only work on one bike after you use it for the first time,
Buy a device that costs more but is capable of working on many bikes,
Take your bike to a dealer or independent and get them to sort it for you.
To have even contemplated working on the bike without a plan to get the system bled correctly may have been a bit fool hardy.
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