Downshifting into 1st
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,641
Likes: 26
From: Ozark Country
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: Dallastx
I don't wear one either but have been riding since Johnson was in the whitehouse. A new rider needs to wear one until they have riden for awhile. That's why all these boomers are dying when riding.
I don't wear one either but have been riding since Johnson was in the whitehouse. A new rider needs to wear one until they have riden for awhile. That's why all these boomers are dying when riding.
Anyway, I believe in 'freedom of choice' when it comes to individuals, even newer riders.
It's not for me to tell them what they need to wear.
True, it might be best for some to wear protective gear (including a helmet), but it's up to each person to decide on their own.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 2
From:
RE: Downshifting into 1st
I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align][/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align][/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus muchmore heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align][/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin tobe worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align][/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align][/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightnessand so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fullyworn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align][/align]
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: Zeb
I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align] [/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align] [/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus much more heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align] [/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin to be worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align] [/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align] [/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightness and so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fully worn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align] [/align]
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I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align] [/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align] [/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus much more heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align] [/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin to be worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align] [/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align] [/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightness and so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fully worn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align] [/align]
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Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Gilbertsville, Pa
RE: Downshifting into 1st
Not to go off topic.....but of course I will about the helmets.
I am in the Pa MC class right now and our instructor put the helmet law into an interesting perspective. In Pa, up until a few years ago helmets were mandatory. WhenEd Rendell took office a few years ago that law was changed immediately when he won the position. My instructor says Ed changed the lawbecause the insurance companies wanted it changed and donated nicely to his campaign.
The reason they wanted it changed was that they pay an arm and a leg to cover the medical expenses of an injured motorcyclist. If a rider does not wear a helmet, increasing his/her's chance of death, then the only benefit the insurance company pays is the $2500 death benefit. Now here's another hitch, any medical bills related to the accident that eventually lead to the death of the rider goes against the estate of the rider and is not covered by the insurance company, basically capping their total cost of $2500.
I don't know the validity of the statement for certain but there has to be some truth in it I guess, or could be totally true. Investigating your insurance would be the place to get the answer I am sure but it puts it into an interesting light. I hate insurance and insurance companies and the amount of policies I hold and of course the cost that goes with it but the necessary arguement is easily made. In reality, the only place I've seen the term "insurance" used correctly is the blackjack table at the casino....let's gamble!
Personally, I feel more comfortable with a helmet as it saved my butt once in a 4-wheeler accident. I did a hill climb that was too steep and snow covered, went backwards and it landed on my head. I have to think if it were not for the helmet I'd probably have some issues, if not dead.....even though I have that legendary hard polish head!
.
For the record,I don't knock anyone for what they do, it's your life, live it your way.
troutspinner
I am in the Pa MC class right now and our instructor put the helmet law into an interesting perspective. In Pa, up until a few years ago helmets were mandatory. WhenEd Rendell took office a few years ago that law was changed immediately when he won the position. My instructor says Ed changed the lawbecause the insurance companies wanted it changed and donated nicely to his campaign.
The reason they wanted it changed was that they pay an arm and a leg to cover the medical expenses of an injured motorcyclist. If a rider does not wear a helmet, increasing his/her's chance of death, then the only benefit the insurance company pays is the $2500 death benefit. Now here's another hitch, any medical bills related to the accident that eventually lead to the death of the rider goes against the estate of the rider and is not covered by the insurance company, basically capping their total cost of $2500.
I don't know the validity of the statement for certain but there has to be some truth in it I guess, or could be totally true. Investigating your insurance would be the place to get the answer I am sure but it puts it into an interesting light. I hate insurance and insurance companies and the amount of policies I hold and of course the cost that goes with it but the necessary arguement is easily made. In reality, the only place I've seen the term "insurance" used correctly is the blackjack table at the casino....let's gamble!
Personally, I feel more comfortable with a helmet as it saved my butt once in a 4-wheeler accident. I did a hill climb that was too steep and snow covered, went backwards and it landed on my head. I have to think if it were not for the helmet I'd probably have some issues, if not dead.....even though I have that legendary hard polish head!
.For the record,I don't knock anyone for what they do, it's your life, live it your way.
troutspinner
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 873
Likes: 2
From:
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: Zombie666
Why is it not agood idea to roll in neutral?
Sometimes I shift to "N" and roll forward but not a good idea rolling in neutral.
It's fine to roll in neutral, IMO,and it also saves less wear and tear on a clutch.
I often approach stops in neutral (or with the clutch in).
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 485
Likes: 0
From: Brisbane , QLD Australia
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: Zeb
I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align][/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align][/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus muchmore heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align][/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin tobe worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align][/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align][/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightnessand so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fullyworn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align][/align]
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I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align][/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align][/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus muchmore heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align][/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin tobe worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align][/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align][/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightnessand so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fullyworn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align][/align]
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When my 08 883 arrives in Sept/Oct the dealer I am getting it from is about 2 hours away from home. Most of the roads are 110kph roads, should I run it at 110kph for the full ride or vary the speed or stay under a 100kph for most of the trip ??. Dont want to stuff it the first day.
Also should I change the oil after the ride home ???
