Downshifting into 1st
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10,114
Likes: 29
From: Vancouver B.C. Canada
RE: Downshifting into 1st
Simple, less traction control. Remember the first day you learn to drive a stick shift car? The instructor asks you to depress the clutch and feel the car rolls forward. When I said not a good idea, that means if you have to do a panic stop in neutral, you might lock the bike, I do this more often on cars lol.
ORIGINAL: Zombie666
Why is it not agood idea to roll in neutral?
Sometimes I shift to "N" and roll forward but not a good idea rolling in neutral.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
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RE: Downshifting into 1st
The way that I have always slowed to a stop on all of my bikes is to downshiftSMOOTHLY all the way to 2nd, minimizing wear on my brakes, until I get to about 10mph at which time you can tell that the engine/tranny is no longer slowing the bike down, then I shift into neutral and brake to a stop. I have had 4 bikes over the last 14 years and i have always gotton excellent mileage out of my brakes and tires and I've never had to replace an engine. Knock on wood. Just to clarify, I'm not bragging, just trying to help out!
[IMG]local://upfiles/28574/E44CCC637BC04092B3785AD2563C39FB.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/28574/E44CCC637BC04092B3785AD2563C39FB.jpg[/IMG]
Novice
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
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From:
RE: Downshifting into 1st
When my 08 883 arrives in Sept/Oct the dealer I am getting it from is about 2 hours away from home. Most of the roads are 110kph roads, should I run it at 110kph for the full ride or vary the speed or stay under a 100kph for most of the trip ??. Dont want to stuff it the first day.
Also should I change the oil after the ride home ???
Tripp
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 706
Likes: 1
RE: Downshifting into 1st
You only need first for starting out or transversing a long distance (big parking lot, etc) at low speedswhen you havethe clutch feathered to prevent lurching. It's also a good Idea to wait out lights in first gear with your right foot down and at least one eye in the rear view mirror. I like to get first just as I'm coming to a stop.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 873
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From:
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: thruster
Some interesting reading.
When my 08 883 arrives in Sept/Oct the dealer I am getting it from is about 2 hours away from home. Most of the roads are 110kph roads, should I run it at 110kph for the full ride or vary the speed or stay under a 100kph for most of the trip ??. Dont want to stuff it the first day.
Also should I change the oil after the ride home ???
ORIGINAL: Zeb
I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align][/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align][/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus muchmore heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align][/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin tobe worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align][/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align][/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightnessand so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fullyworn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align][/align]
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I would keep it in second, especially if it's an 883. The lower gearing in the 883 makes it just fine to 'bog' in second at that speed.[/align][/align]And playing with the throttle a little won't hurt the bike, even if it's not broke in all the way. Just make sure you don't get the engine too hot in the process.[/align][/align]What you're trying to do in a new engine during the break in period is to wear-in the new engine parts so that they are worn smooth and thus will produce less heat and friction. A new engine has newly honed cylinder walls that are all 'scratched up,' and this produces much more friction between the pistons and cylinders, and thus muchmore heat. Getting a new engine too hot can cause oil to 'glaze' and leave a very hard varnish type of residue that will make it much more difficult to wear-in your engine properly, so you want to keep the R's down and thus the heat down on the engine until it is worn-in completely.[/align][/align]Once your cylinders have all the honing worn off, they are then in a 'bearing' type of condition, meaning they are like a smooth bearing surface which will allow the pistons to move up and down in the cylinders much more easily and thus with less heat created. The cylinders will also begin tobe worn to the fit of the pistons rings, thus making a good seal between the two.[/align][/align]That's about all you're trying to do during the wear-in period, other than also wearing in other metal-to-metal surfaces like cam and lifters, etc.[/align][/align]500 to 1000 miles usually takes care of the wear-in (although sometimes it can take longer). You'll pretty much know when it's worn-in all the way by the drop in oil consumption and the engine feeling cooler and running with less vibration, tightnessand so forth. The oil will also stop getting as dark so easily as it does when the honing is wearing off into the oil. Pull your dipstick out and not only check the color of the oil during the wear-in period, but also the heat of it (feel the oil with your fingers), and also the 'grittiness' of it. When it's fullyworn-in, you should notice a notable change in all three. The oil won't look as dark, it won't feel as hot, and it won't feel as gritty (don't forget to change it after only a few hundred miles, then again at 500 miles, and at 1000 miles)[/align][/align]
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When my 08 883 arrives in Sept/Oct the dealer I am getting it from is about 2 hours away from home. Most of the roads are 110kph roads, should I run it at 110kph for the full ride or vary the speed or stay under a 100kph for most of the trip ??. Dont want to stuff it the first day.
Also should I change the oil after the ride home ???
The slower the better just as long as you don't bog it.
You also might want to think about pulling over and letting it cool off every once in awhile, if you think it's getting hot.
As for changing the oil when you get home, it wouldn't hurt. I would change it as recommended in your owners manual at least, and even more if you feel like it, but never less.
I used to try andchange oil and filterin new engines aroundat 100 miles; 250 miles; 500 miles; 1000 miles, at least.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 5
From: Phoenix, AZ
RE: Downshifting into 1st
I shift into 1st at 15 or below, like others have said, bump the throttle and make it a smooth transition and you won't have any problems, it is hell on a clutch to just dump it down into 1st though.
And as for the helmet thing, I recently laid my bike down, and I can honestly say even though I'm in no way scared to get on it again, I will most likely be wearing one for a while. Probably during the summer months where it's hot and people don't pay as much attention and drive like idiots here in Phoenix. I don't like wearin it, but it's just safe for the time being.
And as for the helmet thing, I recently laid my bike down, and I can honestly say even though I'm in no way scared to get on it again, I will most likely be wearing one for a while. Probably during the summer months where it's hot and people don't pay as much attention and drive like idiots here in Phoenix. I don't like wearin it, but it's just safe for the time being.
Novice
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
RE: Downshifting into 1st
As far as shifting into first while still moving, my Sportster manual shows the downshift speed for first at 10 mph (and 20, 30, 40 for 2nd, 3rd, and 4th). Sportster transmissions seem to be pretty smooth when you shift at Harley's recommended speeds (can't claim I'm very good at that). The important thing is that you do shift down through the gears while you're slowing down. If you're unfortunate enough to find youself stopped in 3rd or higher, it can be a real pain to try to coax it back to first gear...
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: none
RE: Downshifting into 1st
A lot of interesting advice here...thanks..
One more consideration regarding shifting into first at a stop. I tend to leave the bike in neutral at a light/stop sign/etc. My thought being that, if I'm in first, and my hand slips off the clutch, I'm lurching into oncoming traffic. I realize that keeping the front brake applied should take care of this, but having the bike in neutral while waiting for a light feels safer to me. It's worked for me since about 1964, I think I'm going to stick with that system!
One more consideration regarding shifting into first at a stop. I tend to leave the bike in neutral at a light/stop sign/etc. My thought being that, if I'm in first, and my hand slips off the clutch, I'm lurching into oncoming traffic. I realize that keeping the front brake applied should take care of this, but having the bike in neutral while waiting for a light feels safer to me. It's worked for me since about 1964, I think I'm going to stick with that system!
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Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 76
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RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: HuronBob
A lot of interesting advice here...thanks..
One more consideration regarding shifting into first at a stop. I tend to leave the bike in neutral at a light/stop sign/etc. My thought being that, if I'm in first, and my hand slips off the clutch, I'm lurching into oncoming traffic. I realize that keeping the front brake applied should take care of this, but having the bike in neutral while waiting for a light feels safer to me. It's worked for me since about 1964, I think I'm going to stick with that system!
A lot of interesting advice here...thanks..
One more consideration regarding shifting into first at a stop. I tend to leave the bike in neutral at a light/stop sign/etc. My thought being that, if I'm in first, and my hand slips off the clutch, I'm lurching into oncoming traffic. I realize that keeping the front brake applied should take care of this, but having the bike in neutral while waiting for a light feels safer to me. It's worked for me since about 1964, I think I'm going to stick with that system!
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
RE: Downshifting into 1st
ORIGINAL: beendad
The way that I have always slowed to a stop on all of my bikes is to downshiftSMOOTHLY all the way to 2nd, minimizing wear on my brakes, until I get to about 10mph at which time you can tell that the engine/tranny is no longer slowing the bike down, then I shift into neutral and brake to a stop. I have had 4 bikes over the last 14 years and i have always gotton excellent mileage out of my brakes and tires and I've never had to replace an engine. Knock on wood. Just to clarify, I'm not bragging, just trying to help out!
[IMG]local://upfiles/28574/E44CCC637BC04092B3785AD2563C39FB.jpg[/IMG]
The way that I have always slowed to a stop on all of my bikes is to downshiftSMOOTHLY all the way to 2nd, minimizing wear on my brakes, until I get to about 10mph at which time you can tell that the engine/tranny is no longer slowing the bike down, then I shift into neutral and brake to a stop. I have had 4 bikes over the last 14 years and i have always gotton excellent mileage out of my brakes and tires and I've never had to replace an engine. Knock on wood. Just to clarify, I'm not bragging, just trying to help out!
[IMG]local://upfiles/28574/E44CCC637BC04092B3785AD2563C39FB.jpg[/IMG]