Muffler removal
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: Blue Grass (KY)
Muffler removal
Not new to Harleys, but just bought a 2013 1200C sporty, stock exhaust. I was going t remove the mufflers and maybe knock out to plug inside the stock mufflers. Loosened to muffler clamps, removed the two bolts under them mufflers, but then it seams like the front and rear are attached to a crossover or equalizer of some sort. How do I remove this? Dont have a service manual yet..figured theres got to be a method to this, little help maybe?
hate to sound like an idiot about this, just dont want to cause more problems doing something dumb...
thanks all.
hate to sound like an idiot about this, just dont want to cause more problems doing something dumb...
thanks all.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,890
Likes: 553
From: USA
I am assuming by "plug" inside the muffler, you mean the baffles. If so, you may want to check out DK Customs site on how to do it. You will need to cut off a section of the tapered section of the muffs. Probably best to install TTIs to reduce reversion.
Nonetheless, the mounting brackets for the slip-ons also serve as the crossovers for the exhaust system. Each slip-on has a crossover port on it. I believe 2014 and later, the ports were on the head pipes.
Nonetheless, the mounting brackets for the slip-ons also serve as the crossovers for the exhaust system. Each slip-on has a crossover port on it. I believe 2014 and later, the ports were on the head pipes.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,254
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From: England
It will be necessary to remove the belt pulley cover and under there take out the bolts that hold the crossover pipe in place or at least loosen them to get the pipe to disengage with the rear muffler.
After removing the 2 bolts and the clip holding the rear muffler it is down to brute force and ignorance to twist and pull the muffler off.
The same then with the front one.
After removing the 2 bolts and the clip holding the rear muffler it is down to brute force and ignorance to twist and pull the muffler off.
The same then with the front one.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Oct 25, 2018 at 02:39 AM.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: norcal
Just finished w swap back to stock mufflers on 2008 xl1200c. you need to removes headers to be able to lift slip ons off/on the crossover tube. Took me a full day, process exacerbated bc l couldnt find a wrench that fit my o2 sensors, so l left them on and tried to be really carefull not to pull on the wires when yanking/twisting on mufflers, both to remove them, and to realign exhaust w install. Even thogh l spent a long time getting the alignment right without yhe gaskets on to avoid damaging them while , it took still longer and was harder than expected to get the final alignment with the gaskets in place as the exhaust is essentially a single part.
used a lot of breakfree and several rest brakes to let it work. also ended up tieing headers to foot pegs and and other parts as needed to secure it when twisting/pulling to avoid bending or damaging them (hope so anyway, went back together ok anyway), rear pipe has a clamp that helps here that the front one doesnt.
Recc also that you get the 4 new gaskets before you start, use a file to really smooth the male/female openings, esp on the old mufflers, if a screwdriver was used to knock them off like mine were.
The hardest unexpected problem was inserting the new header gaskets, They need to go STRAIGHT in, and l had to do a lot of smoothing/burnishing and uncountable retries before l got them in straight and not deformed.
good luck and dont forget the easyout goop.
used a lot of breakfree and several rest brakes to let it work. also ended up tieing headers to foot pegs and and other parts as needed to secure it when twisting/pulling to avoid bending or damaging them (hope so anyway, went back together ok anyway), rear pipe has a clamp that helps here that the front one doesnt.
Recc also that you get the 4 new gaskets before you start, use a file to really smooth the male/female openings, esp on the old mufflers, if a screwdriver was used to knock them off like mine were.
The hardest unexpected problem was inserting the new header gaskets, They need to go STRAIGHT in, and l had to do a lot of smoothing/burnishing and uncountable retries before l got them in straight and not deformed.
good luck and dont forget the easyout goop.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 394
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Just finished w swap back to stock mufflers on 2008 xl1200c. you need to removes headers to be able to lift slip ons off/on the crossover tube. Took me a full day, process exacerbated bc l couldnt find a wrench that fit my o2 sensors, so l left them on and tried to be really carefull not to pull on the wires when yanking/twisting on mufflers, both to remove them, and to realign exhaust w install. Even thogh l spent a long time getting the alignment right without yhe gaskets on to avoid damaging them while , it took still longer and was harder than expected to get the final alignment with the gaskets in place as the exhaust is essentially a single part.
used a lot of breakfree and several rest brakes to let it work. also ended up tieing headers to foot pegs and and other parts as needed to secure it when twisting/pulling to avoid bending or damaging them (hope so anyway, went back together ok anyway), rear pipe has a clamp that helps here that the front one doesnt.
Recc also that you get the 4 new gaskets before you start, use a file to really smooth the male/female openings, esp on the old mufflers, if a screwdriver was used to knock them off like mine were.
The hardest unexpected problem was inserting the new header gaskets, They need to go STRAIGHT in, and l had to do a lot of smoothing/burnishing and uncountable retries before l got them in straight and not deformed.
good luck and dont forget the easyout goop.
used a lot of breakfree and several rest brakes to let it work. also ended up tieing headers to foot pegs and and other parts as needed to secure it when twisting/pulling to avoid bending or damaging them (hope so anyway, went back together ok anyway), rear pipe has a clamp that helps here that the front one doesnt.
Recc also that you get the 4 new gaskets before you start, use a file to really smooth the male/female openings, esp on the old mufflers, if a screwdriver was used to knock them off like mine were.
The hardest unexpected problem was inserting the new header gaskets, They need to go STRAIGHT in, and l had to do a lot of smoothing/burnishing and uncountable retries before l got them in straight and not deformed.
good luck and dont forget the easyout goop.
Novice
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: norcal
Alas that seems to be the story of my life hotlap, expected before l started to have it go like yours did. Admit l do need to get the manual, but l just got my bike too and .... lt just felt like l was putting too much pressure on the header to lift the pipe off the crossover tube, and the pipes were well stuck together despie a day of soaking in breakfree.
removing the header also allowd me to better position everything to better grip, twist, pull, etc... wo putting more stress on the tube,head joint, or wiring, particulary the front pipe, cause the rear pipe has a clamp u can use to secure the header when you twist. Was really getting nervous that the pipes would tear or distort before the they finally started moving, and rhat $40 used mufflers were going to need new headers before l was done.
as a bonus to removing the headers, in addition to really liking the better low speed performance l get low with stock vs the loud “race” pipes the po had put on, l discoved the head gaskets were mostly gone, flange nuts were little more than finger tight,and there was no sign of the crossover tube gaskets. Also seems to have cleared up a lot of my wierd idle issues, that weren’t responding to snake oil gas treatments or cleaning the IAC, that l’ve been trying to resolve via another thread.
removing the header also allowd me to better position everything to better grip, twist, pull, etc... wo putting more stress on the tube,head joint, or wiring, particulary the front pipe, cause the rear pipe has a clamp u can use to secure the header when you twist. Was really getting nervous that the pipes would tear or distort before the they finally started moving, and rhat $40 used mufflers were going to need new headers before l was done.
as a bonus to removing the headers, in addition to really liking the better low speed performance l get low with stock vs the loud “race” pipes the po had put on, l discoved the head gaskets were mostly gone, flange nuts were little more than finger tight,and there was no sign of the crossover tube gaskets. Also seems to have cleared up a lot of my wierd idle issues, that weren’t responding to snake oil gas treatments or cleaning the IAC, that l’ve been trying to resolve via another thread.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,067
Likes: 394
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Alas that seems to be the story of my life hotlap, expected before l started to have it go like yours did. Admit l do need to get the manual, but l just got my bike too and .... lt just felt like l was putting too much pressure on the header to lift the pipe off the crossover tube, and the pipes were well stuck together despie a day of soaking in breakfree.
removing the header also allowd me to better position everything to better grip, twist, pull, etc... wo putting more stress on the tube,head joint, or wiring, particulary the front pipe, cause the rear pipe has a clamp u can use to secure the header when you twist. Was really getting nervous that the pipes would tear or distort before the they finally started moving, and rhat $40 used mufflers were going to need new headers before l was done.
as a bonus to removing the headers, in addition to really liking the better low speed performance l get low with stock vs the loud race pipes the po had put on, l discoved the head gaskets were mostly gone, flange nuts were little more than finger tight,and there was no sign of the crossover tube gaskets. Also seems to have cleared up a lot of my wierd idle issues, that werent responding to snake oil gas treatments or cleaning the IAC, that lve been trying to resolve via another thread.
removing the header also allowd me to better position everything to better grip, twist, pull, etc... wo putting more stress on the tube,head joint, or wiring, particulary the front pipe, cause the rear pipe has a clamp u can use to secure the header when you twist. Was really getting nervous that the pipes would tear or distort before the they finally started moving, and rhat $40 used mufflers were going to need new headers before l was done.
as a bonus to removing the headers, in addition to really liking the better low speed performance l get low with stock vs the loud race pipes the po had put on, l discoved the head gaskets were mostly gone, flange nuts were little more than finger tight,and there was no sign of the crossover tube gaskets. Also seems to have cleared up a lot of my wierd idle issues, that werent responding to snake oil gas treatments or cleaning the IAC, that lve been trying to resolve via another thread.
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From: Bedford UK
I've dismantled the exhaust on my bike and, despite umpteen years of tinkering on bikes, had to resort to reading my FSM! To be frank it isn't a simple thing to describe, nor to do. Your '08 bike is the first year of that style of set-up, so previous models were different, indeed more recent Sporties are different again. The balance pipe also serves as the mounting bracket, which is a clever idea, if a bit complicated to mess with.....
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Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Hastings MN
If all you are going to do is remove the stock baffles don't bother taking the mufflers off the bike. It's super simple with the mufflers installed and probably easier.
A 2" hole saw will fit perfect inside the end of the muffler. You won't need the pilot on the hole saw the lip on the end of the muffler will center the hole saw. Cut thru and the inner baffle literally falls out. You won't cut any chrome on the outside or the end of the muffler so it looks clean and sounds good.
A 2" hole saw will fit perfect inside the end of the muffler. You won't need the pilot on the hole saw the lip on the end of the muffler will center the hole saw. Cut thru and the inner baffle literally falls out. You won't cut any chrome on the outside or the end of the muffler so it looks clean and sounds good.
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